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kingof78
03-07-2006, 12:33 PM
ok guys i ordered my new steeda cable for my car. my old clutch cable was really sticky and i thought it might be the cause of my problem. here is my problem. at a stop in neutral i push in the clutch and can't put it into any gear not even 4th or 5th unless i sit there and mess with it a while. also if i slightly pull on rev with the clutch pressed you can hear it grind softly which tells me that the tranny is still spinning. ok so i make sure that my clutch cable and adjuster are almost all the way out on adjustment and it still wont go into gear. we just did a clutch swap-out on her and i put in a cf dual friction and press plate. i noticed that the disc is thicker than the stocker would that make a differance? also going into gears while shifting can be knotchy at times but from 2-3-4-5 are fine but 1-2 is really knotchy. please help this is getting anoying.

QuickSilver
03-07-2006, 02:28 PM
Hey, what year is your Cobra. I have some what the same problem. I have an 2001 Cobra and when I go into reverse it will grind but if I go into 1st gear and then go into reverse in will work. also when I take off fast and switch gears fast sometimes it will grind into second and sometimes it wont. I am the second owner of the car so I don't know what the guy did before me. I plane on getting a T56 Trans.

Jason:rotf:

MODS: :starwars:
Sumitomo 265/35/ZR-18
18" CHROME STEEDA ULTRA LIGHT RIMS
STEEDA CAT-BACK EXHAUST SYSTEM
STEEDA BILLET BULLET DOOR LOCK BUTTONS
STEEDA RACING LUG NUTS
STEEDA BILLET SHIFTER BEZEL W/ NAME
MGW 3-D COBRA SHIFT KNOB
BAER ERADISPEED VENTED CROSSED-DRILLED AND SLOTTED ROTORS
20% BLACK TINTED WINDOWS
BASSANI OFF ROAD X-PIPE W/ NO CAT`S
UPR REAR BUMPER INSERTS ( BLACK)
UPR BLU THUNDER NS SHIFTER
K & N AIR FILTER
DIABLO SPORT CHIP
CHROME COBRA LICENSE PLATE
SVT COBRA MUSTANG CLUB DASHBOARD BADGE
SVT COBRA MUSTANG CLUB ENGINE BADGE
SVT COBRA MUSTANG CLUB-THIRD BREAK LIGHT DECAL

kingof78
03-07-2006, 03:59 PM
i have a 99 which has a t-45 and i beleive early 01's had it too then swiched to a t3650 but yea i had that same exact problem then this one came about. check to see if the original clutch is in the car? some are saying that my disc is too thick for the setup and needs to be spaced out a bit.

ausie
03-08-2006, 07:02 AM
I had issues similar to what you both describe but with my 04. As for getting into reverse with the 01 what I had to do when I had the car was to put the shifter into 4th first then swap over to reverse. The 01 had the tremec t3650. The other issue I had with the 01 was getting it into 1st with the engine running, always had to push it into 2nd then 1st when at a stop. At a creep you could not shift into first from neutral otherwise the gears would grind. It may have well been the clutch quadrant since I never replaced it on the 01. As for the 04 it was nearly impossible to shift with the stock quadrant so I replaced it and have been trouble free since then.

When I attempted to use the adjustable clutch cable it became unpredictable since the adjuster at the end effectively shortened the lenght of cable travel and would not disengage the clutch. For some reason or another the part was too short when compared to the stock cable (outer casing was same lenght but the cable itself was too short) If you have problems shifting or getting into gear more than likely it is the cable length that is the problem. IF you have the steeda clutch quadrant and fire wall adjuster (or similar) you may have to use the upper cable hook with a slightly longer cable to gain the necessary travel required to separate the pressure plate from the disk. It is either that or the pressure plate was not matched properly to the clutch disk. From what I gathered briefly on some of the clutch sites they offer matched sets (clutch and pressure plate) so that issues will be minimal. If you are grinding gears and that was a result in the clutch transfer, I would definately correct the issue before the trans burns up the syncros.

QuickSilver
03-08-2006, 12:55 PM
Yes Ausie, i do have a problem going into 1st from a creep but i don't grind, it is just very stiff like it wants to grind. Thank for the info I will have to look into it.Jason

MODS:
SUMITOMO 265/35/ZR-18
18" CHROME STEEDA ULTRA LIGHT RIMS
STEEDA BILLET BULLET DOOR LOCK BUTTONS
STEEDA RACING LUG NUTS
STEEDA BILLET SHIFTER BEZEL W/ NAME
MGW 3-D COBRA SHIFT KNOB
BAER ERADISPEED VENTED CROSSED-DRILLED AND SLOTTED ROTORS
20% BLACK TINTED WINDOWS
BORLA CAT-BACK EXHAUST SYSTEM FROM STEEDA
BASSANI OFF ROAD X-PIPE W/ NO CAT`S
UPR REAR BUMPER INSERTS ( BLACK)
UPR BLU THUNDER NS SHIFTER
K & N AIR FILTER
DIABLO SPORT CHIP
CHROME COBRA LICENSE PLATE
SVT COBRA MUSTANG CLUB DASHBOARD BADGE
SVT COBRA MUSTANG CLUB ENGINE BADGE
SVT COBRA MUSTANG CLUB-THIRD BREAK LIGHT DECAL

ausie
03-09-2006, 06:50 AM
I am not sure if the t3650 has a synchronized frist gear. The lowest gear I could ever down shift to was 2nd and had to come to a complete stop to get into first. However, with the T56 six speed in the 04 I can downshift into first easily as long as the speed is not over the maximum for that gear. There is a huge difference in comparrison to the t3650. You almost have to look at the two from 1st to 4th and ignore the overdrive gears.

Regardless of the transmission. If you are having diffuculty shifting it could be a few issues at hand causing the problem. note: I am just pondering with some ideas.

#1 would be clutch quadrant or cable length. If the pressure plate is not releasing the clutch it becomes difficult if not impossible to shift.

#2 would be the synchros being worn down to the point they are not allowing the gears to mesh properly.

#3 may be the shift stops or the shifter ball pivot bushing may have become worn. ( could be the shifter itself )

#4 bent shift fork (probably not the case here).

#5 floating debris in the transmission fluid may be sticking to gears or synchros (most likely brass fillings from the wear of the synchros).

#6 miss-alignment of the transmission. Not sure if this is possible but probable.

kingof78
03-09-2006, 01:35 PM
yes i jacked the car up and put it in first with the clutch in and started it up and the tires spin at the rpm so its def a clutch problem i am going to return this clutch back to summit its a center force df with matching pressplate. what clutch do you recommend.

ausie
03-10-2006, 06:17 AM
That sounds like a clutch and pressure plate combo I would have gotten. My thoughts would be the clutch cable length more than anything. If it is due to the thickness of the clutch and pressureplate, perhaps the cable length is not set to the ideal length. If you have an aftermarket quadrant with more than one cable hook, try a different location on the quadrant and or shorten the cable end adjuster as much as possible. If it is still off the ground, have someone press the clutch in while you look at the other end with the cable sheild off the bell housing. At least that way you could see if the movement may be enough or if there is something wrong with the pivot arm.

ausie
03-10-2006, 06:45 AM
This one is a long shot, is the centerforce clutch a dual friction type?

I could be wrong on this one but I believe the stock clutch is a single friction type (contact between pressure plate and clutch only ). Not quite sure if the stock flywheel will work with a dual friction clutch if contact is to be on both pressure plate and flywheel.

kingof78
03-10-2006, 03:57 PM
i have a steeda adjustable cable and i just got done working on it i have is all the way in with only 3/8 in left worth of threads and like 1/2in firewall adjuster out and it helped a ton but not fixed all the way and im going to put oem type fluid in, i have mercon V mobil 1 synthetic and i talked with center force and they said that some race teams are having trouble with the tranny fluid being toooo good for the trans so im going to put that back in there and should help out the syncros. im going to take that cable up a little more and see what that does. also the stock clutch setup does have a contact with both the flywheel and pressplate and dual friction means it has two types of materials for contact.

ausie
03-12-2006, 11:35 AM
oops, my bad. I must have mistaken the term single friction meaning something else. It has been a long time since I have held a clutch in my hands (say 15 years or so, back in the day when Ford used Borg Warner and it was not a mustang either) Also looking at some of the aluminum flywheels online may have also played with the misconception since they were lacking any contact plates (may have been pictures of steel flywheels) as well as aluminum flywheels with removable steel rings. I just found some of the information a bit missleading with the Cobra setup.

From what some sources have stated on the Tremec transimissions is to use GM syncromesh fluids. This may only be the case for the T56 trans since it is used in many other vehicles like the Viper and Corvette. As for the T3650 hard to say.. What makes the GM synchromesh stuff worth while is that it prevents wear on the brass synchros. I would have to search for the article somewhere in one of the MM&FF magazines a few years back. D&D transimssion rebuilds of tremecs was the topic where they had quoted Tremec recommends the GM stuff over all types of fluids available.

As for the adjustable cable, I would get the car up off the ground and have someone push in the clutch to see if the cable end hits the cable stop. The issue I had with the adjustable cable was the adjustable end effectively shortened the cable length and could not get enough travel since it was hitting the cable stop. The worse thing is that you may have to preload the clutch to get more adjustment into the threaded end. You should at least have 3 to 4 inches if not a little more of cable travel (may be different depending on transmission and pivot arm lenth). I never inspected the 01 setup and that may be much different than the 04 which may explain why the cable I have is too short.