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View Full Version : Upper Pulley ... 2.93 or 2.80?


puzzle13
03-28-2006, 06:03 PM
I currently have a 2.80 upper pulley and did have some overheating issues at CMP. Some information has said that using the 2.8 or the 2.76 upper pulley on a unported stock blower is only going to add to overheating issues. My supercharger is stock and I do not want to get it ported unless I have to. Does anyone have any ideas or information concerning the hp differences between the 2.80 & 2.93 upper pulley along with information concerning the heat issues. Any help would be greatful.

Thanks! :bounce:


***Thread has been updated***

blk04cobra1
03-28-2006, 06:27 PM
I dont have anything in writing, but my general experience would be that there is little to no difference between the two and how much heat they put out. Unfortunately these cars run hot and the cooling mods help, but they still run hot. IMO, the reservoir and H/E have been known to be adequate even at open track events. I would try cooling before taking away the power by swapping pullies. Better yet, if you're really doing a lot of track events, try one of the ice boxes I have in my car (not trying to get you to buy one from us, just trying to help you solve your problems b/c ours is proven to keep your car cool :thumbsup: )

puzzle13
03-28-2006, 06:46 PM
I already have the LFP heat exchanger, but have not yet upgraded the intercooler reservoir yet. I do have brisk plugs if that matters. I just know that there was another 03 there with 2.93, stock plugs, and a box tune compared to my tune by Pro Dyno on Saturday evening, and he did not have any heat issues. He did not even have a larger heat exchanger. Just searching. Thanks!

RedfireSVT
03-28-2006, 10:55 PM
A heat exchanger and reservoir box do nothing to cool an engine. They cool the charge temps to allow you to run higher boost. Adding the box will not help your overheating issues.

Dave B.
03-29-2006, 01:59 AM
Iv been down the road, this is what you do,

leave the 2.80 alone, I had a 2,80 for a long time, but you do need to get a cooler running plug, I dont know the exact number but the stock ones are a "7" and you need to get "6's" in, that helps if your getting some knock, but the main thing that mad my car run hot as h&ll was the stock manifolds, get rid of them, nothing cools these engines better than a set of Long tube headers, I also have a Cobra "R" hood, with the vents opened up and man oh man does this hood dump hot air out the top even sitting still with the fan running, I can put my hand over the exhaust holes we relieved and with the fan running the air coming out would burn you left there too long when I still had the stock manifolds, with long tubes??? never,,,nice and cool all the time

BOOMER23
03-29-2006, 04:55 PM
sounds to me like an upgraded radiator is what you might oughta be after. like someone said the HE and tank is for kicking the temps of the intake charge down a notch and that does help overall heat somewhat you are needing to take some of the excess heat out of the engine and i think a radiator might be a good step and hell even if it doesnt help your problem you havent wasted your money they are good looking upgrades too and it can never hurt to buy cool sh%t for your car anyways, just thins the wallet a little.

Linn@Amazon
03-29-2006, 07:28 PM
an aftermarket radiator will help with your overheating problems..open trackers have been doing radiator upgrades for as long as Ive known..the aftermarket HE helps performance by being more efficient and to keep the programming from pulling timing... long tubes headers help pull the heat from the motor too but up until now with the MAC LTs there were not noticable HP gains doing them unless you were running high HP and boost..
my opinion about the pulley size on a stock Eaton is using the 293..it seems to be the sweet spot where the Eaton is most efficient without over spining and creating heat. We have customers running mid 11s and dynoing @ 480-490 hp with 293 pulleys..a good tune is essential with any car but that could also be a source of your overheating at the track.

puzzle13
03-29-2006, 10:02 PM
I appreciate all the ideas. I am probably going to get the better radiatior and the intercooler overflow tank. As for the headers ... I wouldn't mind them but as per a shop to do the work ... I had nightmares the last time :mad: :mad: :mad: and I can't find a local shop in the Raleigh area that gets completely good reviews. I most likely will not pull the k-member myself without a lift. I am still waiting for a email from Mark at LFP concerning the pulleys & brisk plugs, but that may never come. Does anyone know if the Brisk plugs are cooler than the stock plugs? Who knows ... only time will tell.


Thanks again!:rotf: :bounce:

RedfireSVT
03-29-2006, 10:28 PM
You can also do the LDC head cooling kit, and do the hood cooling mod (which takes about 5 minutes in the driveway) also remove the hood blanket. That along with the radiator should help alot. You could be waiting on Mark for a while, he can be hard to get a hold of.

puzzle13
03-29-2006, 11:13 PM
What is the hood cooling mod? Concerning removing the hood blanket ... won't that take chances on hurting the paint?

RedfireSVT
03-30-2006, 01:06 AM
The hood mod consists of taking a razor blade and cutting the plastic pieces under the two vents in the hood, not the vents themselves but underneath them there is another plastic piece attached to them that serves no purpose other than to block heat from escaping. Then use the razor to carefully cut the hood blanket around the new and bigger opening. You may have to cut the blanket first, can't remember. If you look at those vents yes they are functional from the factory but the hole is smaller than you think and can easily be opened up by cutting that useless plastic piece off and trimming the blanket. After I did it you could see the heat radiating out of there like a chimney. As for the blanket removal, it has been my experience that it will not harm the paint. Obviously, then you don't need to worry about trimming it either. Only drawback I've found is more engine noise can be heard and not all hoods are painted underneath the blanket. If your lucky it will be painted under there and looks much better than that heat holding blanket. If it's not and it bothers you have it painted, I've seen people paint some cool designs under their hoods. I've also heard of people removing the hood to firewall seal to let heat escape but I have no personal experience with that. Hope this helps.

Linn@Amazon
03-30-2006, 02:53 PM
I appreciate all the ideas. I am probably going to get the better radiatior and the intercooler overflow tank. As for the headers ... I wouldn't mind them but as per a shop to do the work ... I had nightmares the last time :mad: :mad: :mad: and I can't find a local shop in the Raleigh area that gets completely good reviews. I most likely will not pull the k-member myself without a lift. I am still waiting for a email from Mark at LFP concerning the pulleys & brisk plugs, but that may never come. Does anyone know if the Brisk plugs are cooler than the stock plugs? Who knows ... only time will tell.


Thanks again!:rotf: :bounce:
there are 2 ranges of Brisk plugs both are colder than stock but one is for high boost cars and the other isnt..we never had much luck with the Brisks and actually have a whole case just sitting here

and yes the cooling mod is a must too..

BadMoFo
03-30-2006, 04:06 PM
what is the LDC head cooling kit, I know about the hood blanket but I just wont do it until I have a garage for the snake.

RedfireSVT
03-30-2006, 04:59 PM
what is the LDC head cooling kit, I know about the hood blanket but I just wont do it until I have a garage for the snake.Go to www.LDCChicago.com (http://www.LDCChicago.com) to view the head cooling kit.

BadMoFo
03-30-2006, 05:10 PM
ok so now the coolant just goes from front to back instead of all the way around? and does anyone have a better pic of this mod?

RedfireSVT
03-30-2006, 07:36 PM
That's right, the coolant on the drivers side head just pools up back there and doesn't circulate very well. I got a complete set of instructions with pictures from the LDC website back when I installed mine.

BadMoFo
03-31-2006, 09:07 AM
That's right, the coolant on the drivers side head just pools up back there and doesn't circulate very well. I got a complete set of instructions with pictures from the LDC website back when I installed mine.

I see it says corps exchange so do you have to take of your heads? also do you have pics of yours?

RedfireSVT
03-31-2006, 09:25 AM
I see it says corps exchange so do you have to take of your heads? also do you have pics of yours?No you don't need to remove the heads but you do need to drop the tranny, that's why alot of people wait till they need a clutch to do it.The installation is very simple after the tranny is out of the way. I paid a mechanic at Ford $100 to istall it when I had my throw out bearing replaced under warranty. The core return is for the passenger side fitting.

BadMoFo
03-31-2006, 09:30 AM
so can you see the mod from the top view of your engine, and the next question is have you had an issues with the mod?

RedfireSVT
03-31-2006, 09:46 AM
so can you see the mod from the top view of your engine, and the next question is have you had an issues with the mod?not sure if you can see it or not. you'd really have to squeeze your head behind the supercharger and then maybe only a partial view. i have no issues with it nor have i ever heard anyone else say anything bad about it. everyone swears by them.