View Full Version : Problem fixed, no squeel anymore

04-08-2006, 10:18 AM
As it turns out, the flywheel and pressure plate were glazed over and the clutch was almost down to the rivets. Had the guide tube replaced and new TOB installed along with flywheel, clutch, and pressure plate. I asked to see the old flywheel since the dealer told me that it did not have a steel friction plate mounted to it. Sure enough it did along with numerous hot spots as well as the same for the pressureplate. The odd thing though, the clutch was worn on one side only. Not sure if that is typical.

I have a few hunderd miles to drive to seat the clutch. Will have to keep a close eye on the oil level since the flywheel was removed and not sure if they replaced the rear seal or not.

With all the new parts in place, I noticed one big difference: lack of effort required to push the clutch pedal in.

04-09-2006, 07:36 PM
Was this the stock clutch? What kind of clutch did you replace it with?

04-10-2006, 07:07 AM
The stock clutch was replaced. Although it still had some grip left. I brought the car in under a tsb for noise. They relpaced the guide tube (basically the entire front end of the transmission), and TOB which was covered under the basic warranty (that took care of the labor) however, they would not put an aftermarket flywheel, clutch, or pressure plate in so I had to settle for the Ford parts which is okay for now. I do not have any mods that would have caused premature failure except for driving habits (14 passes on the 1320, usually kept the RPM down on the launch). I should have taken it in when I had the first issues with it. I put the clutch quadrant in around 10k miles (just a guess since I do not remember when I did it).

I have not been doing any spirited driving yet since I have a chance to seat the clutch in the right way. The UPR clutch quadrant and firewall adjuster did not seem to pose a threat to the TSB or warranty on the TOB. The dealer (service writer) tried to tell me that the clutch probably will not need replacement but I insisted that it should. Sure enough it was toast. Also, after inspection of the removed parts it appeared that the guide tube was still in good shape (was not aluminum) but they replaced it anyway. At least the fluids in the transmission were replaced. Sooner or later will have to install a good short throw shifter (MGW orange?).

For now, every thing is much better than when the car was first driven off the dealer ship lot at time of purchase. Cluch feel is like butter under your foot (almost pushed the clutch pedal throught the firewall when I picked it up). With about 75 miles on the clutch I got into a little boost and at that point is when I realized I was missing out on all the fun :D but will have to keep it under control until I get past 500 miles of stop and go traffic.

04-10-2006, 10:02 AM
When you are ready for that new aftermarket shifter, definately go with the MGW shifter. Best shifter on the market :thumbsup:

04-11-2006, 06:30 AM
Thanks, after everybody in here has been raving about it I would be a fool to go with anything else :thumbsup: . May have to wait a bit for the recovery process from the repair bill. I spent a bit more than I was hoping too along with some new tires and wheels which basically drained my tax refund. What is left would be the MGW shifter and Lokar gas pedal assembly which were top of my list until I found out the clutch was no longer there.