View Full Version : Need A Clutch Asap!

04-21-2006, 02:57 PM
Well it was bound to happen sooner or later. Leaving Baker Engineering this morning I pulled out and stood on it and needless to say the clutch is in need of replacement. Assuming the clutch plate is in several pieces I need to order parts.

I have a 2001 Cobra with the T-3650. Does anyone have any suggestions for a replacement clutch. I was thinking about the Ford Racing 2003 Clutch kit with balanced aluminum flywheel. However, wasnt sure if people like the aluminum flywheel for street driving. I would like to get some to hold up when using the bottle. I've got a NX setup with the maximizer controller going on soon.

Any suggestions would be great. Thanks!

04-21-2006, 05:23 PM
I know must recommend the centerforce dfx and a fidenza fly wheel.
I also see your from Grand Rapids, we will have to get together sometime. There is a few of us around with Cobras and mustangs.

04-22-2006, 05:14 AM
You definately do not need the DFX clutch for your power level. I recommend a factory 2003 cobra clutch setup. That will give you plenty of holding power and it won't chatter at all.

04-22-2006, 12:08 PM
If your cobra is not running if you think you blew up the pressure plate, chances are you may have lost the flywheel since they can shatter as well. (to date, lost a flywheel on an Escort GT, and blew up two flex plates on a 96 exploder, both of which were steel.)

Cost for the 03/04 flywheel and clutch assembly:

2R3Z-6375-AA Aluminum Flywheel $587.53
3R3V-7550-AARM Clutch Disk (re-man) $204.58
3R3V-7563-AARM Pressure plate (re-man) $172.44

Just a few notes on the parts, it may be possible to get the clutch and pressure plate in non-remanufactured form. The aluminum flywheel from ford is not recommended to have it re-surfaced but I am sure it can be done since others have been able to do it. The friction plate on the flywheel is not replaceable since it is rivited in place. There may be alternatives like SPEC, ACT, or RAM that may be better than the stock parts as far as longevity as well as a difference in the friction materials used in the clutch disk. The above pricing is the cost for parts when I had my 04 serviced. At least the labor was covered under warranty for the TOB replacement and guide tube TSB. Use that for comparrison if you wish. Better if the flywheel and pressure plate (and clutch) carry SFI certification. I do not think that the stock parts are SFI certified.

04-22-2006, 12:58 PM
Thanks guys for the suggestions. I think I am going to either throw the OEM replacement on or the 2003 upgraded kit. Is the aluminum flywheel the way to go over steel? I understand the whole less rotating weight. There is almost a 20lbs difference, I had heard somewhere though that it may cause the car to bog. Is there any truth to that with these cars?

Thanks again!:thumbsup:

04-23-2006, 10:08 AM
I wouldn't buy the '03 cobra clutch kit from the ford parts counter. Search around and locate it elsewhere. I'm a fan of the steel flywheel. No need to go aluminum if you don't want.

Clutches I've ran:

stock 97 cobra clutch
King Cobra (hated it)
RAM Powergrip Clutch with stock flywheel (great stock replacement)
SPEC stage 3 with Fidanza steel flywheel (heavy pedal, chatters)
RAM HD clutch with Fidanza steel flywheel (probably my favorite, but it busted my tranny up, went 26spline, so clutch had to go)
Mcleod Street twin with aluminum flywheel (a race only clutch IMO)

Stock 2003 cobra clutch (will hold upwards of 480rwhp and engage smoothly)
Centerforce DFX disk, CF DF pressure plate, Fidanza alum flywheel (very grabby, I doubt it will last 10,000 miles, even with easy driving.

04-23-2006, 10:58 AM
An SFI certified flywheel would be my choice especially with NOS on board. It would be wise to match the flywheel, pressure plate and Clutch to the applied power level. The worse thing that could happen would be shattering the flywheel, clutch disk, or pressure plate assembly if your application exceeds the maximum HP and torque rating.

The lower mass of an aluminum flywheel would reduce the paracitic losses since it would require less HP to spin it. Also since the inertial force is lower it would take less energy to slow it down or stop it from rotation. The same holds true for acceleration.

I can see where you are getting the bogging effect since the inertial mass is lower with aluminum than with steel. However, between gears, the motor will not hang in the high RPM when shifting since the lower inertia of aluminum would allow the motor drop in speed quicker. Remembering the 01 I used to have, it seemed that the steel flywheel kept the motor rotating in the power band of the stock N/A 4.6 when shifting between 2nd, 3rd, and 4th. If the RPM drops too low you get stuck with the lack of torque. Where as the 03/04 Cobras have just as much torque at 3000RPM that the 99/01 produce at their peak. I would guess there would be a tradeoff. If you had a different gear in the rear it may make a world of difference as well as the power adder you mentioned.

Another thing to consider, some race type clutches and assemblies will change the driving characteristics. Chatter usually results due to the difference in clutch plate design as well as the friction materials. This may not always be the case but I have read about many issues in other sites about clutch problems. It all depends on the clutch and intended application.
The key ingredient is the pressure plate clamping load. The stonger the load force of the pressure plate (or face plate) the longer the life of your clutch.
When it comes down to it, make sure that the flywheel, clutch and pressure plate assembly exceeds your power level requirements.

04-23-2006, 05:56 PM
I have an 01 and got the 03 clutch/flywheel...aluminum. I also got the driveshaft. I love it.