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Abu Ali
06-25-2006, 01:25 PM
hi every one ... few days back i have faced a big problem cause my 97 cobra is over heating specialy that the temperature here in my country is about 44 c (degrees celsius) ... i chacked the water pump, thermostate, i even removed the exuasts and tried it but still temperature is at (L) it did not reach(H)... knowing that the stupid x owner of the car had instaled a copper radiator on it (IS IT THE PROBLEM ?) .... my mechanice is said even if replace my radiator with the original aluminum one it will not solve the problem ... he says that i have to remove the heads and install new gasskits because he thinks that my gasskit is the problem ... but i don't know should I????? . ...

if anyone can help me cuase really i don't know what to do???
thanks for all of you .... good lick with your snakes
97 cobra

Abu Ali
06-26-2006, 04:58 AM
guys plz openions at least

SuperG
06-26-2006, 07:46 AM
Certainly replacing the radiator can't hurt, I have heard many times of people switching to a larger unit in hot climates. I would also check the fluid. Is it still clean, has something contaminated it? Also, try running without the thermostat, perhaps the thermostat is stuck?


I will see if I can find any other diagnostics when I get home and can use the manual...I am sure others will chime in...

Firme
06-26-2006, 10:29 AM
I would definitely check the cooling system for air. There is a bar by the alternator that has the air bleeder cap on it. Air in the coolant system will cause overheating.

Hazman
06-26-2006, 01:45 PM
Firme
The 97 colling system is different from the 01 Cobra.

Abu
When filling the radiator on the 97 Cobra you MUST get the air pockets out or it will all ways overheat. Standing in front of the car looking down in to the engine compartment you will see a black pipe that runs just in front of the air intake housing that has the Cobra on it. In the center of that pipe is a plug. Once you fill the radiator remove this plug and let the air out. Add coolant/water mix to the point that when you put this plug back in you displace some fluid. Run the car for a few minutes to get it warmed up good then let it cool down. Then open the plug again and let the air out again if any. Add coolant/water mix to the point that when you put this plug back in you displace some fluid.


Try this before doing anything else. In most cases with these engines it is air in the system causing loss of coolant flow that is the problem.

Let us know how it goes!!:thumbsup:

Firme
06-26-2006, 02:02 PM
Firme
The 97 colling system is different from the 01 Cobra.


We are talking about the exact same thing, I just did a bad job describing it as I was in a hurry, I said cap instead of plug. Your instruction are much better though. I was talking about the 97, but still, the 97's and 01's coolant bypass tube are very similar with the exception of minor, subtle differences not applicable with this problem. You get the air out of the system on an 01 the exact same way you do on a 97, through the plug on the coolant bypass tube. :thumbsup:

http://www.svtcobraclub.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=5571&stc=1

ausie
06-27-2006, 07:54 AM
Copper and Aluminum both will dissipate heat effectively since they make good heat sinks and provide very good heat transfer. However, Copper is a more reactive metal than the aluminum alloys used and can be affected by the anti-freeze chemicals. The nice benefit of aluminum is once it oxidizes it forms a protective layer and will no longer oxidize. Copper on the other hand will condinue to oxidize in the presence of alkalines or acids (which occurs in the states of the coolant, fresh new antifreeze is loaded with alkalines and once it ages and dehydrates it eventually becomes acidic). 44 degrees C is very hot (111 degrees F) and if your climate is relatively dry, you may want to have more water in your coolant mixture than anti-freeze since water is more effective in heat transfer than the anti-freeze part. Depending on how hot it gets during the summer season, you may want to alter the coolant mix to a 60% water to 40% coolant. If it is common for temperatures to reach freezing you should check the coolant with a coolant density tester when the cooler months approach to prevent the coolant from freezing. You should only add distilled water since any minerals that are in drinking water may cause a buildup of scale inside the cooling system and will also alter the PH of the cooling system. Also some of the other advice listed should be helpful with getting the air out. IT could not hurt to replace the thermostat with one that opens at 180F (83 - 85 degrees C) However, if your coolant is getting forced out of the expansion tank by violent erruptions once you shut off the motor it may indicate exhaust gasses are present in the coolant. If you notice any oil droplets or large debris floating in the coolant it may be an indication that there is probable head gasket issue or that the water pump is beginning to wear out.

Abu Ali
07-01-2006, 06:33 AM
thanks guys for the replies.... about the air in the system i already bleaded the air from the system using the same tech. and nothing happened. the temp. kept raising till (A). till now two mechanics examine my car and they both agreed that its the head gasget is the problem as there is no circulation in the water system ( and yes ive chcecked the water pump in the agency and they said that is working fine), so i guess we have only one choice is to pull out the two heads and replace the gasket, but the thing is i might need some polishing work for the head at it might be dameged by the heat.... so guy if anybody did that before did u experianced any problems after doing that ??????

thanks alot guys for the help i really appreciate it :)

ausie
07-01-2006, 10:08 AM
I have not had any polishing done, but did have the heads shaved on two vehicles (niether of them were mustangs). The car that had the aluminum block and heads worked great after the repair and lasted another 90,000 miles without any motor issues. However, the other vehicle did not favor it too well since the repair did not resolve the issue (bad head gasket, actually the repair made it worse and wound up replacing the motor after 3000 miles). If the job is done right, you should not have any problems. A sure sign that you have a head gasket leak is loss of coolant, oil in the coolant, coolant in the oil, and rusty spark plugs or unusually clean spark plug. If you need to have the heads removed, you may as well get the heads looked over (valve guides, check the valve seats, valve springs, etc...) The signs of where the gasket leak is may reveal itself once the heads are removed. If there are any signs of warpage to the heads, it is probably better to replace them than have them shaved down.

dewone
07-05-2006, 09:21 AM
Just a couple items to look for on a bad or blown head gasket. Like Assie stated exchange of oil and coolent, Also look at the exhaust if your blowing white smoke after the cars warmed up, head gasket could be leaking coolent, blue smoke indicates oil, sometimes the gaskets just blow into the cyclinders, and don't exchange in the systems. .02

ausie
07-06-2006, 12:01 PM
I believe the issue you are having is out gassing. If you ever heard any pinging noises while driving (sounds like ball berings or small metal pellets bouncing around in a coffee can or metal bowl) it is likely the detonation caused the head gasket failure. It does not necessarily mean that coolant and oil will mix, or that the fluids are entering the combustion chamber. The damage may just allow the combustion gasses to escape throught the gasket into the cooling passages. This will cause the pressure to build up in the cooling system and it will eventually blow out throught the expansion tank fill cap. Typically this is also associated with floaters in the coolant (grayish to black tacky blobs of material along with droplets of oil in the mix). IF the coolant level drops dramatically it may be due to the outgassing of combustion gasses if there is no steam generated throught the exhaust. If it turns out to be just a head gasket only the labor will cost money and the gasket will be the inexpensive part of the repair. IT is also possible that the casting of the head may have a crack in it or that one of the rear plugs has been compromized if you have a mistory leak. Another thing that would cause boil overs would be pressure loss of the cooling system (weak expansion tank cap). If you have no floating contaminants in the coolant, if you do not blow steam through the exhaust and there is no milky white substance in the oil on the dip stick, more than likely you have a weak cap or the expansion tank needs replacement if the threads do not hold the cap in place. I had this issue with two mustangs so far (the first one I suspected blown head gaskets since I had floaters in the coolant and it pinged really bad at times). The second mustang that had issues with the expansion tank was my 04 Cobra which happened right after I got home with it from the dealer. I decided I did not want to experience another vehicle with coolant overflow so I replaced the plastic expanion tank with a Canton Racing tank that used a standard radiator cap (which allows you to obtain one for higher pressure than the 16psi stock part). I have not had any problems since then. That would probalby have cured the other one but I knew it had other problems that a simple trick would not fix.

SNAKEYE
07-06-2006, 02:48 PM
Abu Ali:

Welcome to the world of hot Cobra ownership. I take it this is a new car to you, and the first time it, and you together, have experienced such ambient temperatures. Our Cobras may not all run hot, but a lot of them do. The stock answer from the 'agency' (and indeed the owner's manual) is that it is normal, and that any temperature gauge reading within the tick marks from below the "N" to above the "L" is "NORMAL". Personally, I do not subscribe to that theory. Except for the temp gauge running high, you do not mention anything about loss of performance, coolant dripping on the ground below the engine, coolant spewing out the radiator cap, or excessive condensation flowing out the exhaust pipes (with 44C temps there may not be any condensation as the exhaust would stay hot all the way thru the exhaust system and into the air).

Sounds to me like nobody is helping you, with the possible exception of potentially parting you from some of your money!

Some mechanic "thinks" (they get paid to do that?) another radiator won't fix it. Some other guys say it's the head gasket because there is no circulation in the water system. No circulation certainly could lead to a blown head gasket, but no circulation is not the result of a blown head gasket. And then the 'agency' comes along and says the water pump is working fine. Somebody may be right. Somebody may be wrong. All of them can't be right, but all of them could be wrong!

I suggest you talk around locally to find some one person/operation that can be trusted and go with them, but require that they provide you with diagnostic testing results that lead to their end conclusion.

With the lack of any negative diagnostics (real diagnostics, not the I "think" kind) I suspect all you'll need is a heavy-duty radiator to be able to deal with that 44C heat, along with assuring that the radiator fan is actually running. A 180F t-stat certainly wouldn't hurt anything in your part of the world.