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View Full Version : Where to Buy O2 Sensors?


SuperG
08-17-2006, 08:17 AM
Can you get these from anywhere? Is there a "better" place to buy them? Is there a brand to get or to stay away from? For example, at Autozone, they have 3 brands: Bosch, Denso, and Beck Arnley all for around $60 each.

Thanks!

blk04cobra1
08-17-2006, 09:02 AM
Can you get these from anywhere? Is there a "better" place to buy them? Is there a brand to get or to stay away from? For example, at Autozone, they have 3 brands: Bosch, Denso, and Beck Arnley all for around $60 each.

Thanks!
Call Steve at Tousley Ford and get OEM replacements...:thumbsup:

SuperG
08-17-2006, 09:36 AM
OK, so Ford OEM...thanks!

ausie
08-18-2006, 06:56 AM
I believe the Ford OEM are Bosch. Denso would be just as good and probably the same thing. Regardless of what you get, make sure that the threads have antisieze compound on them (use the same stuff that you would put on the threads of spark plugs). Before removal of the old ones, depending on the condition of the metal (you may need to use a rust penetrator product). Also you need to get a removal tool since that is worth its weight in gold if you do not have one. Also if they are stubborn to remove, you may need to let the car idle for a bit (sorry if you still have the idle issue) to warm up the pipes. Allow to cool a bit and loosen the sensors (pipes may still be hot) then let cool so you can get your hands in there. You probably will not have too much of an issue removing them. Once you install the new one's (they usually come with wire ties to resecure the wires away from the exhaust pipes).

SuperG
08-18-2006, 07:06 AM
I do happen to have the removal tool, and it sure IS handy! Once installed, will the computer immediately recognize them or do I need to reset the computer?

See, at start-up, the car idles horribly. Then after warm-up, a drive, and back to idle, the car still runs horribly...can I expect that if the O2 sensors actually are bad, that new ones will fix this condition?

blk04cobra1
08-18-2006, 09:32 AM
I do happen to have the removal tool, and it sure IS handy! Once installed, will the computer immediately recognize them or do I need to reset the computer?

See, at start-up, the car idles horribly. Then after warm-up, a drive, and back to idle, the car still runs horribly...can I expect that if the O2 sensors actually are bad, that new ones will fix this condition?
You'll be able to notice a difference at idle if this was your issue and the stock computer will recognize them.

ausie
08-20-2006, 07:57 AM
I do happen to have the removal tool, and it sure IS handy! Once installed, will the computer immediately recognize them or do I need to reset the computer?

See, at start-up, the car idles horribly. Then after warm-up, a drive, and back to idle, the car still runs horribly...can I expect that if the O2 sensors actually are bad, that new ones will fix this condition?
There may be several issues that was caused by the oil leak at the supercharger. Depending on how much oil made it into the combustion chamber and how much may have effected the sensors, cats (assuming you still have them). If the cats are clogged from oil it may be difficult to determine if sensors will correct the issue. How many miles are on the sensors? Once the response has been degraded there is no way to cure it without replacement. You probably do not need to reset the EEPROM (memory) but if you do not see any change, do the memory dump. If that does not make a differece it may be the cats, EGR or something else. It should not hurt to replace them if you have high miles (more than 40k) on the originals.

SuperG
08-20-2006, 02:06 PM
I am assuming the O2's are as old as the car, 50k+miles...Right now I am having a bear of a time getting the O2's out...

ausie
08-21-2006, 06:47 AM
Best to use a penetrating oil to unlock the grip of the oxidation (PB blaster works great, or there is liquid wrench however PB blaster is a better product).

Hit all of the spots where the sensor mounts to the mid pipes with penetrating oil and let it sit for 10 minutes. warm up the car just enough to wam up the pipes. Loosten up the front sensors but do not remove them just yet, check to see if the rear sensors can be loostened, if not warm up the car again. Once you get the rear sensors loose let the exhaust cool down before you remove them. I had to do it this way on my Explorer since the mid pipe was rusty.

When you install the new ones, best to use antisieze compound on the threads if the new sensors do not have this on them.

SuperG
08-21-2006, 07:05 AM
Well, I got those suckers out...turned out I needed some artificial muscle (cheater bar). The threads were dry...really dry! So I replaced the front O2 sensors and then installed the MILS Eliminators on the rears (no cats).


Now the car won't start. Just cranks. Lucky, huh?

SNAKEYE
08-21-2006, 12:17 PM
Well, I got those suckers out...turned out I needed some artificial muscle (cheater bar). The threads were dry...really dry! So I replaced the front O2 sensors and then installed the MILS Eliminators on the rears (no cats).


Now the car won't start. Just cranks. Lucky, huh?
Lesson #1: Do not EVER do two or more things at one time because when it
don't work you don't know what is screwed up!

SuperG
08-21-2006, 01:51 PM
Lesson #1: Do not EVER do two or more things at one time because when it
don't work you don't know what is screwed up!
Are you saying I should disconnect the MILS? I was actually going to try that...after I look at the fuses. I am guessing at best it's either the MILS or a fuse to the fuel pump.