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View Full Version : What Chip to buy


cobra9915svt
09-17-2006, 09:58 PM
What are some recommendations for getting a chip? I have heard from a GT owner that he got an additional 45 horsepower from a chip that cost him right around $400.

WVSNS&
09-17-2006, 11:06 PM
I have heard more people talking good about SCT. I am thinking about getting this one.


john

BadMoFo
09-18-2006, 10:40 AM
not alot of folks are doing chips anymore. most do a hand held programer like the diablo predator or somthing from sct. that way you just plug it in to your port and go. plus you are able to data log and have more control over your tune and what you can change.

check out www.amazonracing.com ask Rick & Linn and they will be able to give you a ton of info.

blk04cobra1
09-18-2006, 05:46 PM
Adding a tune (or chip) to your car would be benefitial, but not 45hp. I guess if he was talking about flywheel HP it's possible. More than likely he's talking about either the Diablosport Predator or SCT XCAL2. We are SCT dealers and prefer this software b/c it allows you to datalog certain parameters. Let me know if you're interested. We also have "chips" for a little less than the $400 mark. However, we do not do mail order tunes, so you'd still have to get a dyno tune.

Red Rydng Hood
10-14-2006, 07:11 PM
FYI...I have a 99 beauty beast..tried to hop her up and have been told by two speed shops that the stock chips Diablo and Hyperteck won't give you but 3-5 RWH, engine for that year is tapped out. So the alternative would be cold induction system, flow masters, stage one nitirous on the cheap end, maybe some new gears if you can hack the labor cost at Ford and then get a custom build chip after that. Most of my little challenges come off the line so a blower or supercharger can push that engine over the edge...Unfortunately living here in Arizona were the gas sucks at 91% octane is a choker anyway...certainly do not want to blow up my little beauty...thought I would share.. :rolleyes:

venomnous99
10-15-2006, 12:29 PM
I agree with Red Ryding Hood. I have looked into, AND tried most things for the 99. If you want to add power to them, lots (i.e. 45 to 50 or more to the rear wheels), it will cost you. As for the chips, they are also right with the fact that these were close to tapped out from the factory. Once you have exhausted the bolt ons, then look into the tune. Or plan for more money. Things like cold air, cat back, x or h pipe, underdrive pulleys, will get you started, and gears will give the car a big wake up. Then I would look into tuning. All the others involve big money. Me, I love my 99, so I am willing to pour money into it, so I am going the big money route.


Ken

03slidewayzSVT
10-15-2006, 02:10 PM
Just remember that when exhaust,CAI is installed along with a gear change... A Tune is needed....The CAI will alone cause you car to go lean!!!! then add an exhaust and your A/F go far up the scale...Then you change gears and you need to have the computer changed for them as well....Now I'm not saying don't do the work to your car first I'm just saying your car will run LEAN!!!! make sure (anyway) you check your A/F's before beating the snot of it.....Now on the tuner box's and chips....I my self use SCT Custom tuned chip thats what I'v worked with and I like....I can't say really anything about other manufactures products because I'v never used them....I do know that a SCT Custom products are great... The Xcal2 hand held box's are very good, They data log and can have many tunes in them for differant applications....There is good and bad for all...You give up one thing for something else....For instants an SCT flip switch chip is what I use I can chance tunes on the fly while driving....I can drive with my race tune in and switch to NOS on the fly:D .....Xcal2 Box's you have to stop and download your next tune to like "hit da NOS" but you do have that data logging...So it is up to what ever you want just make sure your car is safe because I myself think $400 is cheaper the a new engine....Hope this helps anyone out in any way.....If you need a Custom one off tune www.Pro-Dyno.com (http://www.Pro-Dyno.com) is who I personally recommend and trust...Dan da man @ Pro-Dyno is a exclusive SCT dealer located in Charlotte NC.....Thanks best of luck:thumbsup:

ausie
10-16-2006, 08:26 AM
All that was said was on the money..... Add a cat back and the A/F will increase in the lower RPM range but will return to a safe level aroung 3500 RPM since the stock tune runs a bit lean in the lower RPM range. Then it turns to the rich side at about 6000 RPM to prevent burning out the cats. Depending on what type of cold air induction is used, those that have a bend in front of the MAF meter will cause it to run lean through out the RPM range if you cannot rotate the meter so that the MAF sensor remains in the air stream. JLT would probably be your best bet since both designs provide sufficient metering of the air flow. JLT would be my first choice then after that?????? Perhaps C&L.

I would prefer an SCT tuner myself. There is something to be said about both the predator and SCT is that they have the ability to alter timming as well as remap the air/fuel curves. Going with the plug in type chips may lead to some undesired issues like problems with the anti-theft system, and so on especially if there is an issue with the plug in unit. Just remember one thing, not all Cobras of the same year will benefit from the same tune especially after it has been modified with bolt ons. Having a dyno tune as well as real world tweeking (on road tuning) would be a safe bet.

If you really want more power, you may have to dig into the heads, have them ported, and recammed, add some LT headers and regear the rear. Changing the cams would require a custom tune.

CJchronic
10-18-2006, 10:38 PM
All that was said was on the money..... Add a cat back and the A/F will increase in the lower RPM range but will return to a safe level aroung 3500 RPM since the stock tune runs a bit lean in the lower RPM range. Then it turns to the rich side at about 6000 RPM to prevent burning out the cats. Depending on what type of cold air induction is used, those that have a bend in front of the MAF meter will cause it to run lean through out the RPM range if you cannot rotate the meter so that the MAF sensor remains in the air stream. JLT would probably be your best bet since both designs provide sufficient metering of the air flow. JLT would be my first choice then after that?????? Perhaps C&L.

I would prefer an SCT tuner myself. There is something to be said about both the predator and SCT is that they have the ability to alter timming as well as remap the air/fuel curves. Going with the plug in type chips may lead to some undesired issues like problems with the anti-theft system, and so on especially if there is an issue with the plug in unit. Just remember one thing, not all Cobras of the same year will benefit from the same tune especially after it has been modified with bolt ons. Having a dyno tune as well as real world tweeking (on road tuning) would be a safe bet.

If you really want more power, you may have to dig into the heads, have them ported, and recammed, add some LT headers and regear the rear. Changing the cams would require a custom tune.
Listen to Ausie. He is right on target. SCT & JLT:thumbsup:

ausie
10-19-2006, 07:18 AM
The diablosport predator tuner or the SCT xcal are very similar but there are some differences too. The Predator tune maintains the air/fuel curve characteristics of the stock tune at the high rpm range (this is to reduce exhaust temperatures to prevent burning out the cats) where as the SCT tune remains flat. Both offer a safe tune out of the box to start with. It would not hurt to review both by looking at information at their web sites.

http://www.sctflash.com/

http://www.diablosport.com/

Both of which can be customized if you purchase them from a good tuner. The benefit of doing that is you can get downloads of new tunes when needed.

I personally like the data loging offered by the SCT tuner. Since there are several part numbers specific to the model year so that will have to be considered when you decide which one to get.

Also do not be too focused on the peak power increases but more so on the entire power curve (Hp and Torque).

99blackcobra
10-24-2006, 10:55 AM
Yeah I have a hypertech programmer and all you can do for the cobra's is change the engine rev limit and tire size. It also might make the cooling fans kick on sooner. However it DOES NOT give 40 to 50 horsepower. The best for the money is an off road x pipe. The programmer might give you 5 at the rear wheels

Red Rydng Hood
10-27-2006, 12:20 AM
I agree with Red Ryding Hood. I have looked into, AND tried most things for the 99. If you want to add power to them, lots (i.e. 45 to 50 or more to the rear wheels), it will cost you. As for the chips, they are also right with the fact that these were close to tapped out from the factory. Once you have exhausted the bolt ons, then look into the tune. Or plan for more money. Things like cold air, cat back, x or h pipe, underdrive pulleys, will get you started, and gears will give the car a big wake up. Then I would look into tuning. All the others involve big money. Me, I love my 99, so I am willing to pour money into it, so I am going the big money route.


KenI see you have 373's...did Ford have to install because of the independent suspension? My speed shop guy told me they are a night mare to do...needs special tools? Oh...do you have a cold air system and if so what kind and what was the cost...? Thanks. RRhood...:o

ausie
10-27-2006, 07:29 AM
Replacing the rear gears in an IRS is not quite a nightmare but more difficult than a solid live axle. Ford made it easy with the racing 3.73 gears which comes complete with the differential housing. (not sure if it is still available). All that would be needed is to fill it up with fluids, and install it. I would assume that the assembly has already been shimmed up and ready to go with the proper backlash dialed in. To replace the ring and pinion gears in an existing housing may be more demanding of a task but probably not that much different than doing it to a solid live axle once the differential is removed from the IRS cage.

If you want rear gears, find a shop that has done many IRS setups. The job is not typical so finding a place with experience in the IRS modifications would be a plus. The only kicker is that the labor will be much more which would be the nightmare if they charge $60 and hour.

Red Rydng Hood
10-28-2006, 08:45 PM
Cool on the gears...but I guess I will have to wait until I can get new tires, rims......I understand they need to be larger in the rear...to keep some rubber on...also I would like some info on cold air system...most likely if I keep the car it probably would be better to get all done at once to save on labor...Thanks:o

CJchronic
10-28-2006, 09:31 PM
Cool on the gears...but I guess I will have to wait until I can get new tires, rims......I understand they need to be larger in the rear...to keep some rubber on...also I would like some info on cold air system...most likely if I keep the car it probably would be better to get all done at once to save on labor...Thanks:o
You don't need new rims and tires to do the gear swap. Do the gears, cold air intake(JLT), and computer(Xcal2). Get it tuned. Total cost parts and labor $1000-$1200. You can do the intake yourself. Then get the rims and tires later if you want them.

Red Rydng Hood
10-29-2006, 01:03 PM
Well....I do not work on my own car...not because I am a women but I realize where my strengths are not...:) The guy at the speed shop told me I should get wider tires if I change out the gears because like now I would be just burning rubber from a stop...(shes better on a roll) I have polished Cobra rims that would not accomodate any more width so... do the gears really make a difference...maybe I should stick with the cold air/tune and stage one nitrs..RRH:o

ausie
10-30-2006, 07:21 AM
Considering that the stock 99 wheels are only 8 inch wide they do seem to have a narrow footprint especially if you still have the 245/45 size tires on the wheels. There may be something to gain with wider tire/ wheel combinations. However wider tires in the rear may not be a blessing. What matters most is the tire compound than the width. I had some really good tires on my stock 01 wheels which gripped like glue and when compared to 10x18 inch wheels with the same brand and model of tire. It was much easier to spin them especially when making a left turn into traffic. Tire reference Bridgestone Potenza Pole Position S03. They were almost perfect tires in the 245/45-17 but seemed to be less perfect in the wider width. With the 01 Cobra it was no sweat to spin the rears with the 10 inch wide tires. The tires were great once you were moving but when taking off, they were easy to loose traction (depending on road conditions). I rediscovered this too soon when I traded in the 01 for the 04 and kept the BBS wheels. I am not saying wider tires are the wrong thing to do, it will matter what tire compound is used that will make a difference. I would definately recommend Toyo Proxes T-1R tires (if you go from 17 to 18 inch wheels) which grip really good in cold, hot and in most road conditions even wet and heavy rain fall. I have yet to try the BFG KDWII's yet. Then again there are always Drag radials but they will have their limitations on street conditions and probably not so great in the rain if you get caught in bad weather.

What you will find with different gears in the rear is that the car will seem a bit slower with normal street driving. What that means is that the engine will rotate more per wheel revolution with a higher gear ratio than with the stock gears. This will increase the amount of torque output of the motor since the taller gear ratio acts like a torque multiplier. In other words, you will not have to wait for 2nd gear to wind out before shifthing into 3rd since the motor will struggle less to move the weight of the vehicle when you have the throttle matted to the floor. When you are pushing the car to its limits, you will be shifting a bit sooner than you are used to as well as reaching the power band quicker. As for wider tires, it probably will not make much of a difference unless you find some really sticky tires. What I found that comes close to the Toyo's is the Bridgstone Firehawk wide oval tires. They come in the stock size 245/45-17 as well as the 275/40-17 which I have on my 04 now. Just about any tire can be spun but when you push it and the motor bogs a bit they are gripping. I would not rate them perfect since they lack some of the traction in the wet when compared to the Toyo tires. They do not channel the water as effectively in the heavy rain either but they are much better than other tires I have had. There is also Nitto 555's which have a tread pattern very similar to the Bridgestone Firehawk Wide Ovals and what others have said about them they took like great tires for the street.

Gears will make a difference even with the stage one nitrous. Getting the right tire that matches the combination will also improve how the power hits the pavement.

Believe it or not, I still have the factory polished 5 spoke wheels from my 01 which I use for winter driving ( mounted low profile high performance snow tires on them). Even though there is gobs of torque enough to burn the tires to the cords in a single sitting, the 8 inch tire works fine with the 04 Cobra. They may not grip as well as a summer tire but have not had issues with them spinning or loosing traction when pulling out unless I force it to happen.

venomnous99
11-02-2006, 05:06 PM
Sorry it took so long to respond, but looks like all the answers you have received are right on. The gears were a combo package, as the rear was changed to the Auburn. Also, although they do make a noticable difference, I don't know about burning the tires off. I presently have BFG KDW 275/40 ZR 17's on stock rims. Although I had to use wheel spacers, as the car is lowered, they seem to work real well. And although I could burn them off the car if I tried, they work great for normal driving conditions. Hope this helps.