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BadMoFo
11-01-2006, 08:16 PM
so I made a 600 mile road trip today and while on the trip I noticed the car just didnt feel right. I mean normally when I drive it even when I dont get on it it pulls pretty hard. well today it just felt kid of sluggish. and I know a couple of weeks ago I head the TOB squeeking a little. but just didnt know if that was a sign of the clutch going out. I mean it would go but it felt like it would take a second or to before it would really grab and start going.

also I dont know if its related but I am starting to get the stall issue again. Ford had flashed the comp once before and everything has been fine until a couple of weeks ago, when I was coming to a stop and the car stalled out and died. well it did it again yesterday and then again today. all morning before it warmed up everytime I would clutch in the rpms would drop to around 200 rpms then surge back to 750-1,000 then back to 200, basicly back and forth before settling at 750-1,000.

so please let me know what you all think. thanks.

ausie
11-13-2006, 07:41 AM
I had similar issues with my clutch, actually the TOB liked to sing to me every now and then. It could be lack of lubrication on the TOB bearing.

As for the stall issue, what happens if you do not let it warm up? If there are no issues when cold it may be related to a vacuum leak once the motor and parts heat up. Does the check engine light come on? That may indicate an IAC (idle air control) valve issue. The stall may be related to a vacuum leak most likely the PCV valve plastic snap on elbo (once hot develops an air leak) or a loose fitting between the rubber grommet on the valve cover and PCV valve. Once the plactic PCV valve gets hot it may loosen up the elbo connection. I had a leaky PCV valve only when the motor was hot which cause the RPM to run extremely slow and became a bit difficult to get started once it was turned off. RPM surges could also be related to a leaking or stuck EGR valve. Both the PCV valve and EGR will supply unmetered air into the intake plenum if they are faulty which may result in the IAC loosing control of idle speed.

I would start by inspecting the PCV valve for possible issues as well as the IAC valve for gummy varnish deposits as well as the throttle plate. If both are gummed up, chances are that the boost bypass valve is also in the same condition. If you need to clean the IAC valve, remove it from the intake and clean it with throttle body cleaner while holding it with the solenoid portion in the upward position so that the solvents to not enter solenoid body by means of the pintle shaft. To clean the throttle plate, sometimes it is easier to remove the throttle body from the intake port of the supercharger, once you are there you can remove the intake port of the supercharger (4 bolts) to get to the boost bypass valve for cleaning. I have done this before to mine and it really woke up the throttle response. If all else fails, it may be related to the EGR valve. I would check the simple things first PCV valve, followed by the inspection of the IAC and throttle plate.

One last afterthought, what are the condition of the spark plugs. It they have become fouled by byproducts of combustion (carbon) or wet with residual oil (usually from the PCV feed or breather line) that could also cause problems. Probably not the cause but would not take much time to inspect a plug or two.

BadMoFo
11-13-2006, 10:33 AM
well it seems they were unrelated issues. tob is still squeeking so I know that has to be replaced soon, in fact entire clutch will probably have to be replaced, have 65k on stock cluthc with many drag races on it.

as for the stalling I cleaned my maf, helped a little. but on a whim I had the fuel filter replaced and stalling issue went away. so all is good for now except for the probable replacement of the clutch.

ausie
11-15-2006, 07:37 AM
I did think about that but if the fuel filter was clogged that much to cause it to stall out, it probably would not run all that well to begin with so I left that out.


65k and noise would indicate you probably have a paper thin clutch and is probably down to the rivits on the clutch plate. 65k miles is good for a stock clutch and many passes on the strip. Mine only lasted 18k miles with 24 passes down the quarter mile. I had issues with my clutch from the start and was not until I installed a shift quadrant that cured the issue. Funny that it grabbed great and did not slip but did make some chatter when pulling out slowly. Turned out it had no meat on the clutch disk, and the flywheel and pressure plate were both fried. I would not bother with ford replacement parts except for the flywheel. The pressure plates and clutch disk are typically remanufactured and will cost as much as aftermarket part that are new. I could have paid the same for Spec or Centerforce and had better components than the Ford replacement parts but I could not get Ford to install aftermarket parts. Next time I will do it myself.

ausie
12-18-2006, 07:28 AM
If you have a fire wall adjuster, you could always back off some tension on the clutch cable unless you are already at the point where it will not release if you do that. Most likely will not help if the clutch is already toast.

billystick
11-01-2007, 08:08 PM
so I made a 600 mile road trip today and while on the trip I noticed the car just didnt feel right. I mean normally when I drive it even when I dont get on it it pulls pretty hard. well today it just felt kid of sluggish. and I know a couple of weeks ago I head the TOB squeeking a little. but just didnt know if that was a sign of the clutch going out. I mean it would go but it felt like it would take a second or to before it would really grab and start going.

also I dont know if its related but I am starting to get the stall issue again. Ford had flashed the comp once before and everything has been fine until a couple of weeks ago, when I was coming to a stop and the car stalled out and died. well it did it again yesterday and then again today. all morning before it warmed up everytime I would clutch in the rpms would drop to around 200 rpms then surge back to 750-1,000 then back to 200, basicly back and forth before settling at 750-1,000.

so please let me know what you all think. thanks.Is TOB short for throttle bearing?

Cobra4me
11-01-2007, 09:00 PM
Is TOB short for throttle bearing?throw out bearing