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autojunkie88
12-07-2006, 08:24 PM
I am just about to begin modding my 03 cobra vert. First i was goign with intake exhaust, upper pulley w\ dyno tune. What can be done passed this to safley create more power... i was thinking MAF (but would i need to get new injectors as well?) and eventually a ported steigmeir s\c. Can someone point me in the direction or does anyone see any flaws in my idea? thanks for the help

cobrabitn
12-07-2006, 09:21 PM
In this order for your modding:

Cold Air Kit - 14 rwhp (150.00)
Catback Exhaust - 19 rwhp (280.00)
Tune - 43 rwhp (300.00 for SCMC members)
Lower Pulley - 35 rwhp (300.00)
Ported Eaton - 50 rwhp (500.00)

Total 161 rwhp for under $2000.00

ausie
12-08-2006, 07:58 AM
Once you begin modding the supercharger, adding pully and tune or stegmier porting, you may want to improve the intercooler capacity by replacing the heat exchanger that has a higher efficiency than the stock heat exchanger. That may not increase the hp but will prevent loss of power due to heat generated from the Eaton.


.... and the smile on your face after modding, priceless.....

ausie
12-16-2006, 11:19 AM
I am just about to begin modding my 03 cobra vert. First i was goign with intake exhaust, upper pulley w\ dyno tune. What can be done passed this to safley create more power... i was thinking MAF (but would i need to get new injectors as well?) and eventually a ported steigmeir s\c. Can someone point me in the direction or does anyone see any flaws in my idea? thanks for the help
I have been thinking about this for too long and since the basic warranty is close to run out it is getting that time to upgrade. Since you have a convertable, the cat back exhaust will be something you may have to live with depending on which one you select. I would not recommend a resonator type exhaust (SLP Loudmouth, Borla Stingers) unless you had the coupe since there is more sound damping material under the hard shell. Perhaps a pass through chamberd exhaust would be less annoying with the convertable (Bassani, Borla, Flowmaster, etc...). As for the Intake, JLT true cold air kit would be the one I would use. The changes here would not require a tune since the effects of the intake and exhaust will affect the A/F all that much in the power band. Getting a tune would not hurt but the power gains would not be all that great for the cost but would provide insurance to prevent leaning out the A/F curve if the cold air kit has any bad influence on the MAF meter.

There is another restriction that can be changed on the intake but may require tuning. That would be replacing the supercharger inlet and throttle body for the wide oval bore. This is just a suggestion and not all throttle bodies are created equal. This mod probably is not worth the money invested until you get into higher boost ranges with a twin screw type supercharger.

Once you go with a pully change would be the critical time to have a tune. You may also need idler pullies to improve belt wrap and reduce belt slip on the supercharger pully. You will only need to change the injectors with for the pully and or ported eaton. Once you begin to alter the supercharger speed and flow characteristics would be the time to upgrade the heat exchanger. There is another mod that may need addressing to improve head cooling on the 03/04. Once source was the Apten cooling mod but I can't seem to find that one anymore.
Spinning the Eaton faster reduces its efficiency which results in more heat generated. There is a limit on the Eaton and attempting to go beyond that will result loss of power due to heat. Much of its limitations is due to the small displacement as well as the method of operation. It is a good supercharger as long as you stick within its boundaries. also once you gain more boost, you may need to upgrade the fuel pumps to ensure fuel pressure does not drop off when the different injectors apply more fuel.

Modifying in stages may be the best bet as well as spread out your budget over a longer period of time.
1. change cat-back, IRS Brace, Cold air kit (or just use a high flow air filter in the factory air box but remove the air silencer if you have not done so already). If you have not installed the IRS brace, the time to do it would be when the factory exhaust is removed. It can be done after the cat-back but will need to be removed for the IRS brace install. This is just to prevent exploding the differential case before you gain more low end torque from the pully swap. It is something that would be good to have weather or not you modify the supercharger speed.

2. Pully change and cold air kit install and tune. May or may not need new injectors or heat exchanger depending on what pully is used. The cold air kit would be more important when you do the pully change since you do not want the inlet to pull in heated air from under the hood. Also you get the tune to correct any influences of the cold air kit and pully at the same time. Probably better to install the heat exchanger prior to pully swap so that any issues can be addressed if they turn up.

3. Port the Eaton if you feel you need it.

My plan would be to skip 2 and 3 all together. I may get a better heat exchanger and then follow that with a Kenne Bell or Whipple. I will stay with the 10PSI of boost for the start and upgrade afterwards. It may cost more but at least the twin screw has higher efficiency as well as lower paracitic HP losses than the Eaton. The KB 2.6L is looking really good right now.