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View Full Version : cracked rotors & leaky brakes


puzzle13
03-12-2007, 08:34 PM
Well, CMP did a number on my brakes. Both front rotors were cracked on the outer part of the rotor ... I guess the brake ducts kept the inside of the rotor cool, but not the back. I was running stock slotted rotors from Carbotech along with Carbotech pads. One problem was the banjo bolts that hold the brake line to the back of the caliper. Never had a problem with them last year or at VIR this year, but the one on the passengers side came slightly loose on Saturday and the drivers side one came really loose on Sunday. Should you use some type of loc-tite to keep this from happening? This was the first year I had track brakes and tires. Any help would be great.

InfamousSVT
03-13-2007, 02:36 PM
I'm not sure if you've got stock lines or not, but with the Maxium Motorsport SS brakelines that are on my 04 they have a torque spec for them.

Not sure if you torqued yours or not, just thought I'd share the info with you. :)

puzzle13
03-13-2007, 06:52 PM
Has anyone done any of the high performance brake upgrades, Brembo, etc.? If so, what are you using and what do you think. I have been looking at Brembo, but not sure of the 2 different packages ... one is the Cobra R replacement and the other is the upper package with 13.2" rotors, but the price is double.

Hazman
03-13-2007, 09:44 PM
On rotors from what I have experienced and seen with friends at the track the difference in cost between a fair rotor like a Raybestos ProGrade and say a cryo treated Frozen Rotor is not worth the money when you look a life span. You just have to watch them. Best to check after they cool some coming off a session. When the little cracks start to grow toghater it is time to replace. The $100 rotor may last 2 or 3 times as long as the $20 rotor but I can buy 5 sets for that same $$$.http://www.highperformancetoys.com/forums/images/smilies/shrug.gif.gif They make good weights for your canopy!http://www.highperformancetoys.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif

Brake pads are the real place to improve braking ability. The difference between the PBR vs the Hawk HP+ vs the Hawk HT-10 is amazing. HP+ was a big improvement over the PBR but the HT-10 was an even bigger jump over the HP+ on a road course. For AX I would stick with the HP+. The HT-10s don't get enough heat in them on an AX course to really get a bite. In fact having left them on once at 411 I can say for sure I did not have good brakes that day!!http://www.highperformancetoys.com/forums/images/smilies/mad.gif

Fluid is another area that needs to be looked at. I run the Valvoline Synthetic and have had good results. I flush a quart or more thru before each track event. The Vette likes Motul. The Ford HD is not what it used to be.http://www.highperformancetoys.com/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif

Good brake ducts are a must for open track. You need a good set of backing plates that put the air into the center of the rotor where it does the most good. You want a good flow of air into the center of the rotor and out thru the vanes. For the Terminator Mustangs I suggest dual ducts!http://www.highperformancetoys.com/forums/images/smilies/eek.gif

Unless you are planning to do lots of open track I think you should go with the Cobra R Brembos. A good brake duct setup and probably the Hawk HT-10 up front and the Blues out back. Valvoline synthetic fluid, flush the system, go out and get on them hard enough to activate the ABS several time and flush again. Then you should be set for the track. Also get some nice ceramic low dust pads for street and AX use.http://www.highperformancetoys.com/forums/images/smilies/cool.gif

One thing to remember is that you are driving the most nose heavy Mustang ever!!! Also CMP is probably the hardest on brakes of any track in the Southeast. The results of this combo you have already experienced.

puzzle13
03-14-2007, 12:48 AM
Thanks Hazman! I was using the Valvoline Synthetic and this year it got too hot. Last year without track tires & track brakes it was no problem. I have the brake duct kits ... you said something about dual ducts? As to the pads, I am going to try something different than the Carbotech ... for what they cost I was not too pleased. I have looked into the Brembo brake kits ... GT1 setup $2845.00 & Cobra R setup $1420. The GT1 setup has bigger pistons, a slightly larger rotor, a 2 piece rotor at twice the cost of the Cobra R replacements, and the pads are more expensive. Brembo says the biggest difference is the heat management saying the 2 piece rotors (around $365.00 each) should make around 10 open track weekends. The Cobra R setup 1 piece rotors ($320.00 per pair) should last about 5 weekends. The rotors I bought from Carbotech ($60.00 each) didn't even last 2 weekends before total failure. If you go by this info they all add up to about the same, but braking power has to be better with the 4 piston units from Brembo. The head instructor at CMP says he uses the Brembos (not sure which one) and he said that the difference was incredible and changing pads was a dream.

If anyone else has any recommendation I would love to hear them.