View Full Version : Long tube question...

04-22-2007, 01:40 AM
I'm going to be replacing the stock manifolds and my offraod H pipe with BBK longtubes/midpipe. I was just want to ask if you guys had any pionters/ words of encouragement. :D I realize that this job will be a MAJOR PAIN... I have been listening to people complain about the swap for years. I have recently started doing a lot of research online and I have learned a great deal so far. The following are tidbits of how I plan to attack this job. If you have anything to add please do.

-dropping the K-member
-have the car as high as poosible on jackstands
- putting in a newer/fresher tranny
-putting in a new clutch
-replacing as much stuff as I can I don't have to ge through this again any time soon (I hope :thumbsup:
-putting in a fire-wall clutch adjuster
-cutting a wrench in have to help get to some of the tougher bolts
-having the apropriate size box wrench for hard bolts
-POSSIBLY putting in a tubular K-member/coil over set up (maybe UPR?)
-at least replacing all the stock worn out bushings (car has 130 thousand mile :D )
-having a 12 pack on hand and lots of bandaids!
-putting in a alum. driveshaft
-new clutch cable

I think thats it... anything to add?

04-22-2007, 02:04 AM
Oh yeah... add a new set of factory oem header gaskets to the list.
should I replace the header bolts??

04-23-2007, 06:17 AM
just a few idea's.
1. Replace the bell housing (great if the trans comes with a new one).

2. You could reduce some paracitic inertia by replacing the flywheel if steel with an aluminum one, also now would probably be the time to replace the rear seal especially if you have to remove the flywheel for resurfacing or replacement. Just be cautious when replacing the rear seal as a small knick would result in loss of oil and oil pressure after it is all assembled.

04-24-2007, 12:45 PM
If you drop the k-member, normal wrenches can be used. Not a big deal. Headers are a gravy train if the K-member is out. I definately recommend new header gaskets. I also cut the flange on the driver's side between the center primaries so i could just slide the header directly over the oil dipstick. Also, make sure you disconnect the battery otherwise sparks may fly when you try to remove the starter. LOL If you replace the clutch cable, replace it with an OEM one and not aftermarket. If you ever have to do clutch work, remove the trans etc., the passenger side header must be removed. So, you should decide that if at any time, the trans needs to come out, are you going to drop the k-member, or snake out the header by itself. If you plan to drop the K-member anytime the trans/clutch needs attention, then I recommend you keep the stock studs/nuts to hold the headers in place. If you would rather just remove the header and keep the K-member in place, I recommend some ARP fasteners (bolts, not studs) to hold the headers in place. One more thing, take a look at the engine mounts and determine if they need replaced before you bolt the headers on, as it's not an easy task to do with these headers on, and in the car.