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View Full Version : evenflow head cooling mod install "how-to"


red04svtcobra
10-15-2007, 03:46 AM
I just finished installing the evenflow head cooling mod this week due to some unexpected mishap, a broken intake bolt!!! I have decided to do a write up on this and give everyone an idea of how easy and how hard some of it was.
****NOTE**** I put the part #'s for the bolts needed because Ford has the wrong part # on their printout. The #HB1 they have is actually for the lower intake and not the blower ones as on their printout. So go by these #'s and you will have the correct ones!!!

The first thing you need to do is disconnect all the cables and plugs to the TB and plenum so it can be removed along with the CAI assembly. Drain intercooler and radiator. Remove the 2 coolant lines going to the intercooler manifold as well as the main rad. hose coming from the factory metal "T". And is best to remove the EGR valve too.
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc26/red04svtcobra/how%20to%20pics/DSC03682.jpg
This is how my plenum looked before the install, not to bad I think.
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc26/red04svtcobra/how%20to%20pics/DSC03683.jpg
You will then need to disconnect all of the vaccum lines attached to the back and sides of the blower and lay the whole thing over on the passenger side out of the way (everything is still connected, just off the blower)
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc26/red04svtcobra/how%20to%20pics/DSC03684.jpg
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc26/red04svtcobra/how%20to%20pics/DSC03685.jpg
Then you need to open the gas cap and bleed off any pressure from the shrader valve on the fuel rail. On the pass. side near the back (follow the fuel line) there will be a part where the fuel line meets a metal line that has a small white clip holding them togather. Remove that clip and pull the lines apart but leave rails and injectors in place for now. Next you will need to remove all 10 intake to head bolts. Now here is where you will need a friend to help out or in my case a screwdriver. You will need to lift up the whole assembly as a whole so you can gain access to the 4 bolts holding the intercooler manifold to the lower intake. Once those are removed, remove the manifold and the 2 metal pipes with O-rings off and very gently lay the whole assembly back down on the heads being sure not to damage the gaskets while doing so or you will be out $80 for new ones.
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc26/red04svtcobra/how%20to%20pics/DSC03686.jpg
Then you need to remove all 10 blower to intake bolts and remove blower.
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc26/red04svtcobra/how%20to%20pics/DSC03687.jpg
The blower to intake gasket is metal and should not be bent! Now is the time to clean that intercooler while it is out. Here is what mine looked like before I cleaned it.
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc26/red04svtcobra/how%20to%20pics/DSC03688.jpg
Now you will need to cut off part of the metal coolant tube on the left that you had already taken the hose off of. You need to cut the pipe just before the ridge with a hack saw like this. Then cut about 1 1/2" off the rubber hose that came off that pipe.
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc26/red04svtcobra/how%20to%20pics/DSC03689.jpg
Once you have done that remove the rials with injectors still attached and set aside. Now remove the lower intake and set aside along with the gaskets. Make sure you place something in the intake holes to keep tools and debris from getting into the heads.
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc26/red04svtcobra/how%20to%20pics/DSC03690.jpg
Now you will need to remove the quick release adapter for the heater hose for the larger one (all curled up) going into the heater core. Now get some long needle nose pliers and remove the clamp holding the hose to the metal pipe way down there and remove the rubber hose. On this hose you will find a clamp that will need to be reove to get the restrictor out. You need to remove the inner one only and then replace the outer one back in the same spot and reeclamp the restrictor in place. Then put hose back on.
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc26/red04svtcobra/how%20to%20pics/DSC03691.jpg
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc26/red04svtcobra/how%20to%20pics/DSC03695.jpg
Next remove the freeze plug at the back of the D/S head with a chisel. Make sure not to nick the plug wall. Once it is cocked to the side pull it out with some pliers. Here comes the tough part, take the plug that is supplied and put it in ice water about 1 hour before so that it shrinks some and makes it install easier. Make sure you have some Indian Head sealant too along with a big socket that will go around the nipple on the plug so you can drive the plug in the hole. When you are all ready to go apply the sealant to the plug and inside the head and hammer the plug into the hole till it is about flush with the head. Make sure it is straight and not crooked which is pretty hard considering the cowl is in the way, but with a little hitting here and a little hitting there it goes in. Here is what it will look like when done.
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc26/red04svtcobra/how%20to%20pics/DSC03696.jpg
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc26/red04svtcobra/how%20to%20pics/DSC03697.jpg
Now all you need to do is install to hose to the plug and route it under the heater core hoses and along side the P/S head to the supplied "T" that will go in between the 2 hoses. Now reassemble in reverse order and then burp system of air.
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc26/red04svtcobra/how%20to%20pics/DSC03698.jpg

I cannot stress enough that you have a good inch pound and ft pound torque wrench. The bolts that you need to be very careful with are the lower intake to head bolts show here. The torque spec for these are 89" lbs + 90 degrees. If they feel like they aren't tightening, STOP and remove the bolts and buy some new ones before they break off and then you have to remove all the stuff again like I had to.
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc26/red04svtcobra/how%20to%20pics/DSC03701.jpg
Here are the blower to intake bolts that are torqued to 18" lbs, then 18 ft lbs, then 90 degrees which is almost 24 ft lbs.
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc26/red04svtcobra/how%20to%20pics/DSC03702.jpg
The other torque specs you may want are:
intercooler bolts 18" lbs, then 53" lbs. You need to use red loctite and silicone while putting intercooler back on. All this needs to be done in 5 minutes.
intercooler manifold bolts 89" lbs + 90 degrees. The small bolt is $18 so dont break that one!!!
Here are some pics of the clean intercooler along with my clean TB. Also some final assembly shots once everything was put back togather.
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc26/red04svtcobra/how%20to%20pics/DSC03699.jpg
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc26/red04svtcobra/how%20to%20pics/DSC03700.jpg
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc26/red04svtcobra/how%20to%20pics/DSC03706.jpg
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc26/red04svtcobra/how%20to%20pics/DSC03708.jpg
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc26/red04svtcobra/how%20to%20pics/DSC03707.jpg

As far as the burping of the cooling system. All I did was add the green coolant (make sure you get the right color, green or gold and don't mix them) and bottled water to the burp plug while the hose going to the "T" was straight up and the barb nipple plugged off and filled until coolant came out that hose and the burp pipe had standing coolant in it. I then started the car up with the heat on and never had any issues with air in system.
This is not written to the "T" so be advised I may have missed a few steps, this is merely just a guide/aid or someone thinking of doing this install themselves is all. Overall it was a pretty straight forward install just be careful torquing the bolts is all and you should be fine.
Chris :thumbsup:

SuperG
10-15-2007, 08:39 AM
Nice write-up! Nice pics!

Cobra4me
10-15-2007, 02:18 PM
good write up indeed!

red04svtcobra
10-15-2007, 03:34 PM
Thanks all, and forgot to mention I also changed the S/C oil while it was out. It took about 1 bottle of GM S/C oil. Do not buy the Ford stuff it is way to expensive, the GM stuff is the same thing just alot cheaper.

Cobra4me
10-15-2007, 04:55 PM
Thanks all, and forgot to mention I also changed the S/C oil while it was out. It took about 1 bottle of GM S/C oil. Do not buy the Ford stuff it is way to expensive, the GM stuff is the same thing just alot cheaper.now is time to put a whipple on there:thumbsup:

red04svtcobra
10-15-2007, 05:01 PM
I tried everything in my power to get one, I came up with every fib known to man to tell her I need a new S/C. She said maybe next year!!!!!!!!!! http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l65/lightning_015/smilies%20and%20funny%20pics/groupwave.gif

red04svtcobra
10-16-2007, 08:51 AM
can someone add this to the how to section on the front page for me?:thumbsup:

Big T
10-16-2007, 09:37 PM
Nice clean engine bay! Good write up!

texaswrx
10-18-2007, 08:36 AM
You should add that to the svt forums how to page indeed! Excellent work and thanks for taking the time to do that:bounce: