View Full Version : Fiore quadrant and Firewall adjuster install "How- to"

10-15-2007, 04:54 PM
I installed the Fiore quadrant and firewall adjuster this past weekend along with all my other projects. I have yet to test it out yet but the install was very easy and highly recommended if you don't have one. :thumbsup: Here is a picture of the Fiore adjuster with the "click action lock", all you do is turn it and it locks in place by the bearing in the groove. This stuff from Fiore is awesome and is made with quality.
I first started off by taking off the old quadrant from under the dash. If you are a big guy you may need to remove the seat to get in there. There are 2 clips that hold the racketing plastic quad on the rods, remove them and pull off the big part along with the spring. The smaller end is a little more difficult to get off but with a little prying on the spring it pops off. This is all what comes off and goes in the trash!! Keep the clips you will neeed them during the install.
Now all you need to do is put the aluminum quadrant on those 2 rods and put the clips back in. Some people don't put spacers on either side of the quadrant to center it and some do. Some say it will center itself, well I centered mine up with some rubber gaskets I had left over from doing a faucet leak repair. You can go to lowes and buy them cheap. To get it centered like the stock one all I did was find out how much shimming I needed on both sides by placing one on top of the other since the stock quad has the spacers built in and going from there. Here is what it will look like.
Now you will need to pull the cable out through the firewall and start to disassemble the stock piece.
Here is where a dremel tool comes in handy. You need to pull the assembly apart by using some brute power. You will notice there are 6 tabs on the back, how ever you decide to do it that little metal clip needs to come off so that the metal piece behind the adjuster assem. that went against the firewall can come off.
Now that that is out of the way you need to cut that plastic piece so that it can be seperated from the cable along with the matal piece and rubber grommet. Here is what is trash!!
Now is a good time to shave down this plastic going through the firewall some. All you want to do is open it up slightly because the aluminum piece will hit it when screwed in.
Now you will need to seperate the fiore piece and take the end part and try and line it up with the 2 holes already there. Mine lined up perfect and only had to drill 1 other hole. If yours is like mine then you will need to hammer in that small raised area that is near the brake assem that is keeping the adjuster from sitting flat. I used a hammer and chisel to accomplish this, make sure this will be hidden behind the adjuster or you will have a ugly dent showing.
Now you can attach the back piece to the firewall being careful not to overtighten the screws. Next you can screw the front part into the back part and insert the tubing supplied into the front part. Now slide the cable through the adjuster. You will need to screw the front part a good distance in so that you can attach the cable to the quadrant under the dash. Once it is attached you can take up the slack by srewing it back out. DONT OVERTIGHTEN or you could break the cable. Keep some slack in it by pulling out on the cable as you are srewing the adjuster out. I left about a 1/2 gap between the cable plastic and the aluminum part of the adjuster. Once that is done you are all set to make the final adjustments needed so that the TOB isn't riding on the fingers of the pressure plate. Here it is all done!!:thumbsup:
To make the final adjustments it is good to have the car up on jack stands and have someone to help out by pressing on the cluthch pedal. With a freind in the car and you underneath you need to make sure that there is about a 1/8" gap (play) between the TOB and fingers. Have your partner press on the clutch and have him tell you when there is starting to get resistance in the pedal. You should be able to see the play from underneath. If there is no play at all then you need to loosen the cable up by screwing the FW adjuster in and the other way if there was to much of a gap. An 1/8" gap will translate to about an 1" of freeplay at the top of the pedal. Once it is adjusted you can make final adjustments to your likings by turning the adjuster at the firewall. Hope this helps some out if they are deciding to do this on there own, this is merely just a rough idea to help others as I may have forgotten a few steps but to get the idea. Also, it is a wise idea to buy the LDC Chicago freeplay correction kit as it will help keep the TOB off the fingers as well as make the pedal steady.

10-16-2007, 08:52 AM
can someone add this to the how to section on the front page for me?:thumbsup:

10-21-2007, 01:50 PM
This looks very interesing.. and a good mod.. (here comes the noob part)

What does it do, and why do we need it? It looks like a way to adjust the cltuch pedel without having to crawl under the dash to do it... ??


10-21-2007, 04:03 PM
This looks very interesing.. and a good mod.. (here comes the noob part)

What does it do, and why do we need it? It looks like a way to adjust the cltuch pedel without having to crawl under the dash to do it... ??

KennyBasically it what you said, to adjust the clutch. You see the factory plastic one with the teeth is CRAP and constantly have to reset them and they take alot of effort to push in. This is a good way to adjust your clutch the proper way and the pedal effort is smooth and not springy like the stock. All you have to do is adjust the firewall adjuster in or out to get the TOB off the fingers of the pressure plate and all your shifting issues of getting into gear will be out the window. If you end up getting this setup I would recommend getting the LDC freeplay correction kit to keep the TOB from riding the fingers and get the slack out of the cable. I also threw in some GM syncromesh fluid and man this shifts awesome. Anymore questions feel free to ask.

10-21-2007, 04:13 PM
Got to test drive it the other day and let me tell you it is one of the best mods out there that everyone should consider getting. The pedal effort is easy and engagement is dead on after making some final tweaks. At first, second gear was grinding sort of going in so I pulled into the driveway and made some adjustments and test drove again and BAM dead on.