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poolman
01-06-2008, 06:30 PM
Anyone have any experience with the Kenne Bell s/c on a 98? I am looking at a forged short block and some head and cam work. :D

thanks

brkntrxn
01-06-2008, 09:47 PM
What exactly are you wanting to know? Ease of install? HP numbers? Reliability? Costs?

poolman
01-06-2008, 10:13 PM
What exactly are you wanting to know? Ease of install? HP numbers? Reliability? Costs?


Thanks for asking...
Reliability mostly. My 98 rotating assembly is stock, has about 36k miles, probably 5k on the track. The car has a great tune from Paul's High Performance, but it has been twisted pretty good. Has had Mobil 1 and good maintenance from the beginning.

I have seen a lot of 96-98 cobra motors break with Vortec's and Paxtons, with and without intercoolers.

I have looked at the Kenne Bell installation and pricing and looks straight forward.

What kind of durability could be expected at 8 psi boost?
Think I should build a forged shortblock to run 3-4 open track events per year with a KB added?

thanks Dennis

blk04cobra1
01-07-2008, 08:59 AM
Thanks for asking...
Reliability mostly. My 98 rotating assembly is stock, has about 36k miles, probably 5k on the track. The car has a great tune from Paul's High Performance, but it has been twisted pretty good. Has had Mobil 1 and good maintenance from the beginning.

I have seen a lot of 96-98 cobra motors break with Vortec's and Paxtons, with and without intercoolers.

I have looked at the Kenne Bell installation and pricing and looks straight forward.

What kind of durability could be expected at 8 psi boost?
Think I should build a forged shortblock to run 3-4 open track events per year with a KB added?

thanks Dennis
Dennis, most KB cars are seeing right at 400rwhp on 8psi. The 1998 motor will hold this efficiently, even under open track events if cooled properly. We have quite a few 98's running around with 450+rwhp and have only had one with issues that I am aware of. I would just do a leak down and compression test before adding the supercharger, that would let you know how "healthy" your motor is.

brkntrxn
01-07-2008, 08:33 PM
Torrey said it all...


If you have an 03, why are you looking to FI the 98 vert? Just curious. My 99 is blown and our 01 vert is stock. I really enjoy having the two totally different setups.

blueblazes
01-07-2008, 11:34 PM
is the 98 kb kit intercooled? if not id stay away from it and look at a centrifugal kit. heat is the enemy

nckissfan
01-08-2008, 06:25 AM
I have been looking at the Procharger brochures.

Torrey, any experience with those?

poolman
01-08-2008, 07:14 AM
Torrey said it all...


If you have an 03, why are you looking to FI the 98 vert? Just curious. My 99 is blown and our 01 vert is stock. I really enjoy having the two totally different setups.


I have had the 98 for almost 9 years, the last 3 years I haven't put 2k miles on it. I am ready to spend some time with it. I am going to have the 03 done by a professional, but the 98 I am going to do the work. As I have done 99 % of the work on it myself.

The 98 just needs a little more giddyup... not 600, but a nice 400 to go along with the Borla side outlet exhaust music. Dammit I love the sound of this car :D. The car was making about 306 rwhp after the Paul's HP tune and many bolt on engine mods, but no low end due to the removed IM runners. I am going to do a compression and leak down test as has been suggested, see what I am starting with.

I am concerned about the durability of the short block, but will do some extra cooling, new radiator, lower temp tstat, and a conservative tune. I am going to do a compression and leak down test as has been suggested, see what I am starting with.
Oh and reset the rev limiter back a bit. :eek:

I would like to intercool it, but see some extensive labor and bucks in that, and haven't really done any research on it.

I really appreciate the input. When I first got this car, I didn't discuss mods with anyone with real experience, would have done some things differently if I had, thanks again for the input.

Dennis

poolman
01-08-2008, 07:16 AM
Dennis, most KB cars are seeing right at 400rwhp on 8psi. The 1998 motor will hold this efficiently, even under open track events if cooled properly. We have quite a few 98's running around with 450+rwhp and have only had one with issues that I am aware of. I would just do a leak down and compression test before adding the supercharger, that would let you know how "healthy" your motor is.


Will do, thanks for the info. Dennis

blk04cobra1
01-08-2008, 09:47 AM
I have been looking at the Procharger brochures.

Torrey, any experience with those?
A little bit of experience...there's really 3 kits to choose from when going centrifugal on stock motors...Procharger (P1SC), Vortech (V2 S-trim), or Paxton (Novi 1000). All three of these really put out similar power under similar boost levels. Of course, you can add an air-air intercooler or the aftercooler by Vortech to keep the heat down, plus you'll see a little increase in power with these additions. Of course, my suggestion these days with technology growing every day, would be to add a single turbo instead of the blowers...you might spend a little more on the front end, but I can tell you that there is nothing like riding in a turbo car :thumbsup: , plus turbo's are less parasitic on the motor.

blk04cobra1
01-08-2008, 09:48 AM
Will do, thanks for the info. Dennisno problem, good luck with whatever you decide :thumbsup:

brkntrxn
01-08-2008, 01:54 PM
For the extra cooling, I can personally suggest you go with one of the available cooling mods (LDC, Evans, LFP, etc) that helps increase coolant flow from the drivers side head. In addition, an LFP or Fluidyne radiator are about the best on the market for our cars. Both will need a minor amount of work to drop in (like move the ABS unit 1"), but they are quality products.

The single best thing is a heat extractor hood (ie a functional Terminator hood) to increase airflow through the radiator. Coupled with ductwork in the bumper cover to direct air through the radiator, this is your best bang for the buck as it truly increases air flow through the radiator.

(in my opinion) A lower temp thermostat only means that you have lowered the point at which your thermostat opens up. On the street it may help, but on the track you will almost always be at temps higher than even the stock thermostat due to the rpms you will be turning. In addition, these cars are much smarter than the old 5.0s and the 160 degree thermostats really don't do that much for them. If you increase your cooling ability of your cooling system, you can keep the temps where the computer likes them best (ie near stock range).

As long as you keep the boost under 10lbs with a good safe and reliable tune, your 98 should live. The trick is a good tune and low boost. I would definitely go with an intercooled setup on no matter the FI route be in turbo, centri or roots. The benefits of an intercooler far outweigh the the cost and effort to install in that you will have more consistant intake air temps vs non-intercooled. Besides, the cost of an intercooler isn't all that great when you are doing a complete setup.



NCKiss -

My 99 is ProCharged. Let me know if you have any specific questions and I will try to answer them. The complete specs on my car are listed on the MM Performance website at http://www.mmperformance.us/mm%20cars.htm. I hope the mods do not mind me posting that link.... besides, Torrey has been answering questions in here already.


Kevin

blk04cobra1
01-08-2008, 02:48 PM
is the 98 kb kit intercooled? if not id stay away from it and look at a centrifugal kit. heat is the enemy
You are correct, apparently they have new manifold to increase air flow and keep the temps down...check out this page:

http://www.kennebell.net/superchargers/ford/mustang-cobra46/mustangcobra46.htm

bolt-on
01-18-2008, 04:56 PM
The 98 just needs a little more giddyup... not 600, but a nice 400 to go along with the Borla side outlet exhaust music. Dammit I love the sound of this car :D. The car was making about 306 rwhp after the Paul's HP tune and many bolt on engine mods, but no low end due to the removed IM runners. I am going to do a compression and leak down test as has been suggested, see what I am starting with.

Dennis,

As I recall, you had the 98 at GingerMan after receiving the Paul's HP tune. It did not seem to need a supercharger as you were blasting around the track quite well. Glad to hear you decided to saddle up and have some fun with the pony cars.

poolman
01-19-2008, 04:54 AM
Hi Larry!

How are you and the lovely wife? Good to here from you. :thumbsup:

I really like Gingerman....wish it was a bit closer to SC. I have always wanted to put a Kenne Bell on that car, Tim Taylor more power disease I suppose...arrrg.

Yes, I have been away too long, missed the fun and friends. Hope to see you again soon. Dennis

Dennis,

As I recall, you had the 98 at GingerMan after receiving the Paul's HP tune. It did not seem to need a supercharger as you were blasting around the track quite well. Glad to hear you decided to saddle up and have some fun with the pony cars.[/QUOTE]

ProfChaos
02-12-2008, 01:52 AM
In his book _How to Build Max-Performance 4.6-Liter Ford Engines_ (http://www.mre-books.com/sa82/sa82_3.html), Sean Hyland recommends that one "limit use of the stock ['96-'01 powdered-metal, cracked-cap Cobra connecting] rods [to use] in engines of 450 hp or less."

According to Hyland, the "Manley forged-steel rods" in '03-'04 Cobras are much better suited to higher-horsepower applications. The powdered-metal, cracked-cap rods sometimes fail in higher horsepower applications (as shown in the catastrophic failure pictured in the second black-and-white image at the above hyperlink).

cheers,
--Professor Chaos

909COBRA
02-17-2008, 01:16 PM
In his book _How to Build Max-Performance 4.6-Liter Ford Engines_ (http://www.mre-books.com/sa82/sa82_3.html), Sean Hyland recommends that one "limit use of the stock ['96-'01 powdered-metal, cracked-cap Cobra connecting] rods [to use] in engines of 450 hp or less."

According to Hyland, the "Manley forged-steel rods" in '03-'04 Cobras are much better suited to higher-horsepower applications. The powdered-metal, cracked-cap rods sometimes fail in higher horsepower applications (as shown in the catastrophic failure pictured in the second black-and-white image at the above hyperlink).

cheers,
--Professor Chaos good reading