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kencobra
10-03-2008, 06:42 PM
Does anyone have the instructions on how to refill coolant and burp the system. I searched and could not find it, thanks :)

kencobra
10-03-2008, 07:34 PM
Found this but seems a little diffferent then I remember.
.

Remove the coolant bottle cap and fill the degas bottle to the add coolant line. Install the cap.

*CAUTION: Do not fill the cooling system through the reservoir only (coolant will not enter the engine), only the reservoir and the radiator will be filled and engine overheating will occur.Remove the fill plug in the crossover tube on top of the engine.

Using a funnel, add coolant to the crossover port, keeping the level of coolant in the funnel at 1/4 full.

Squeeze the 2 large upper cooling system hoses 5 times. Bubbles may appear in the funnel as air exits the system.

Start the engine and run for 5 minutes while monitoring the coolant in the funnel.

A sudden drop in the funnel level indicates the elimination of air in the system.
Shut off the engine and let it cool for 10 minutes.

Crack open the degas bottle cap enough to allow the coolant level in the funnel to drop to within 1 inch of the bottom of the funnel.

Tighten the cap.

Remove the funnel and install the fill plug in the crossover tube.

Add coolant in the degas bottle to the full coolant line.

Repeat the fill procedure if necessary.

jimmysidecarr
10-03-2008, 11:22 PM
That sounds like it would work.

I personally prefer to fill totally and completely FROM THE CROSSOVER TUBE BURP PLUG!


This works too:

With the resv cap off, fill SLOWLY from THE CROSSOVER TUBE BURP PLUG until the cold full level is reached on the resv.

Replace and tighten resv cap.

Continue to fill from THE CROSSOVER TUBE BURP PLUG, squeeze the upper rad hose occasionally to expel any air.

Fill until full at THE CROSSOVER TUBE BURP PLUG.

Tighten burp plug finger tight only, I prefer to grease the threads, Vaseline will work if you don't have any grease.

Start car with a/c off and run till temp gauge starts to move or fan starts up(preferred).

Turn car off and allow to cool until you can touch burp plug with bare hands.

Release pressure in system by loosening and removing cap at resv.
Replace and tighten resv cap.

Remove burp plug and add coolant mix until full.

Repeat as needed.

Tricks:

Park car at an angle with front end about 6" to 1 foot higher than the rear.

Never remove burp plug without first removing and replacing resv cap.(to relieve pressure)

Never fill with both caps loose or off except the initial fill, with you watching the resv cold level.

For a few days after a coolant fill, carry a gallon of premix coolant around with you so you can top off at work or whereever the car happens to have gotten cooled off. Bring what ever tools you need with you.

kencobra
10-04-2008, 12:08 AM
Thanks Jimmy for the advice but know have another problem to fix before finishing the burp. Per previous post I filled the system reservoir 1st then capped it then filled thru the cross tube. Now I notice coolant leaking and traced it to the reservoir tank leaking from under the cap. So I took my wifes 03 Gt cap off her car and put it on the Cobra and it stll is leaking and this is without any real pressure since the car has not been started. Looks like I need another reservoir tank. I really just want to go back with a stocker but will entertain an aftermarket if stock oem is priced close to something like LFP or Canton. I would even buy a used one if I knew the person (club member) and could trust that theirs was good.

This overheating problem is just part of issues with the car at the moment. I also found that the radiator fan fuse 50a was spent. Now not sure if it just went or the fan caused it.

Again that is only part of the problem. A month ago I started the car and let it warm up then took off down the street. When I put my foot into it just a little it fell on its face and started bucking but never died. I replaced the fuel filter, cleaned the throttle body and still had the problem. I then cleaned the MAF sensor and it ran 90% better. So I thought ha, I will go get a new Ford MAF sensor. I replaced it and the car ran great, fixed. Then after Ike I went for a ride (1st time out since fix) and it started doing the same thing but buy the time I got it home it overheated this time.
This is now where I am and I have no clue if one problem has anything to do with the other or it is just a coincedence. I feel totally clueless and really pissed off. We are about to close on a new house next week so this is not the best time for money to be pouring into the Cobra. It may be going to the dealer to be checked out. I guess I should just get the lube out now and bend over :(

Do you have any thoughts on any of this ?

jimmysidecarr
10-04-2008, 02:51 PM
Thanks Jimmy for the advice but know have another problem to fix before finishing the burp. Per previous post I filled the system reservoir 1st then capped it then filled thru the cross tube. Now I notice coolant leaking and traced it to the reservoir tank leaking from under the cap. So I took my wifes 03 Gt cap off her car and put it on the Cobra and it stll is leaking and this is without any real pressure since the car has not been started. Looks like I need another reservoir tank. I really just want to go back with a stocker but will entertain an aftermarket if stock oem is priced close to something like LFP or Canton. I would even buy a used one if I knew the person (club member) and could trust that theirs was good.

This overheating problem is just part of issues with the car at the moment. I also found that the radiator fan fuse 50a was spent. Now not sure if it just went or the fan caused it.

Again that is only part of the problem. A month ago I started the car and let it warm up then took off down the street. When I put my foot into it just a little it fell on its face and started bucking but never died. I replaced the fuel filter, cleaned the throttle body and still had the problem. I then cleaned the MAF sensor and it ran 90% better. So I thought ha, I will go get a new Ford MAF sensor. I replaced it and the car ran great, fixed. Then after Ike I went for a ride (1st time out since fix) and it started doing the same thing but buy the time I got it home it overheated this time.
This is now where I am and I have no clue if one problem has anything to do with the other or it is just a coincedence. I feel totally clueless and really pissed off. We are about to close on a new house next week so this is not the best time for money to be pouring into the Cobra. It may be going to the dealer to be checked out. I guess I should just get the lube out now and bend over :(

Do you have any thoughts on any of this ?


Here is a possible chain of events:

The cooling fan gave up the ghost, and blew the fuse in process.

The car is now prone to over heating anytime it is running but not moving down the road.

The car over heated and the pressure spike popped the coolant resv.

The drivability issue sounds like a bad fuel rail pressure sensor, but it's best not to guess on this stuff, so we should probably pull the codes and see if one was set and what it is.

I have my take off coolant resv up for sale. It has never had an overheat induced spew event(which can warp the cap mounting surface or blow the seal on the cap), and it has never had a pressure spike, that I know of, which can split the tank. It still holds pressure, or at least it did the last time I used it. Looking for $40.00

If you don't have a connection for Ford parts, you do now.

I had been doing 10% over cost for SCMC members, which was the same as employee cost for parts. We can't afford to pay to be an authorized vendor so I have not posted it out in the open till now. Hopefully I won't get in trouble.
We recently(Thursday) had employee cost raised to 15% over cost by corporate. So that is the new SCMC price deal too. It's still saves a ton of money.

First thing to do is diagnose the electric cooling fan. See if the cooling fan can be turned by hand and if it seems free or drags. If it does not turn, it's bad.
If it does turn it needs to be tested.
This will be done by jumping the blown fuse with a semi heavy guage wire(14), then turning on the a/c to max w/ full fan. If the cooling fan does not come on it's burned out. If that's the case, quickly turn the car back off so the jumper wire doesn't over heat and catch on fire or melt.

Next step is determined by the first step results.

Call me if you need to. I'm on the list.

kencobra
10-04-2008, 03:54 PM
Jimmy,

Looks like my timing is a tad off. I went to T Vaughn this morning and bought a new tank and cap. Started install but had to break to run out to Kingwood for a bit.

Once I finish the install and burp, it will be on to the fan. I bought a new fuse to see if it will blow or turn the fan on. But after reading your post I think the fan is bad. It will turn but not continue after spinning it. I checked the fan on Jocelyn's 03 Gt and it continues to spin freely after turning it. So it looks like I need a new fan.

While I was at T Vaughn this morning I inquired about the fan price. They quoted me 296.00 but would give it to me for 267.00. Does that sound good to you ?

I checked the fuel pressure regulator before I bought the MAF sensor and I did not see or smell any gas in it but not sure if I checked it correctly.

The weird thing is that it ran fine after the MAF sensor change and then back to square one :scratch:

jimmysidecarr
10-04-2008, 05:02 PM
Jimmy,

Looks like my timing is a tad off. I went to T Vaughn this morning and bought a new tank and cap. Started install but had to break to run out to Kingwood for a bit.

Once I finish the install and burp, it will be on to the fan. I bought a new fuse to see if it will blow or turn the fan on. But after reading your post I think the fan is bad. It will turn but not continue after spinning it. I checked the fan on Jocelyn's 03 Gt and it continues to spin freely after turning it. So it looks like I need a new fan.

While I was at T Vaughn this morning I inquired about the fan price. They quoted me 296.00 but would give it to me for 267.00. Does that sound good to you ?

While that does sound like they are helping you out with a pretty good discount, I'm quite sure they would not go as far as 15% over cost. I am not at work right now, but If you can wait till Monday I can get you a quote and there is a high probability it will be less, by a good amount.

I checked the fuel pressure regulator before I bought the MAF sensor and I did not see or smell any gas in it but not sure if I checked it correctly.

There are two common failure modes for this sensor. One is a burst diaphragm, which will give the super rich conditions and gas smell. And the second mode is that the electronics fail inside, this can also be intermittent like many electronic problems sometimes can be.


The weird thing is that it ran fine after the MAF sensor change and then back to square one :scratch:

See comments in red above.

Do you have a way to pull codes? Code reader? Predator? SCT Xcal? or other?

We need to find out if it stored a code.

kencobra
10-04-2008, 09:36 PM
See comments in red above.

Do you have a way to pull codes? Code reader? Predator? SCT Xcal? or other?

We need to find out if it stored a code.

I have a Predator that was used by the Tuner years ago. I have personally never used it but I would hope that it would not be to difficult to figure out but then again I am "The Computer Idiot" :D

I would be very greatful if you could check the cost on a fan for me. Let me know what you come up .
Thanks :thumbsup:

jimmysidecarr
10-04-2008, 11:20 PM
I have a Predator that was used by the Tuner years ago. I have personally never used it but I would hope that it would not be to difficult to figure out but then again I am "The Computer Idiot" :D

I would be very greatful if you could check the cost on a fan for me. Let me know what you come up .
Thanks :thumbsup:

I'll pm you a price Monday.

In the mean time...

http://www.diablosport.com/index.php?module=htmlpages&func=display&pid=12#documentation

kencobra
10-09-2008, 12:52 PM
I'll pm you a price Monday.

In the mean time...

http://www.diablosport.com/index.php?module=htmlpages&func=display&pid=12#documentation

Jimmy did you get my pm about the fan price and also fuel pressure regulator ?

Ken

jimmysidecarr
10-09-2008, 01:49 PM
Jimmy did you get my pm about the fan price and also fuel pressure regulator ?

Ken

Sorry!!!!

Had a Dr appointment Monday and completely forgot about it. :shtowned: :chairshot :tongue:

I'm doing it right now.

jimmysidecarr
10-09-2008, 02:05 PM
Ken,

YOUR PM BOX IS FULL.

jimmysidecarr
10-09-2008, 08:10 PM
The following errors occurred when this message was submitted:
kencobra has exceeded their stored private messages quota and can not accept further messages until they clear some space.

:rolleyes:

kencobra
10-09-2008, 11:56 PM
Ken,

YOUR PM BOX IS FULL.

Jimmy,

I just cleaned some of it out, sorry !

Blownsvtlightning
10-11-2008, 07:18 PM
invest in a radkitplus system.. they are less than 100 bucks.

cfradam
10-12-2008, 01:12 AM
invest in a radkitplus system.. they are less than 100 bucks.
what is that? i've never heard of it

jimmysidecarr
10-12-2008, 01:35 PM
what is that? i've never heard of it

I work at a Lincoln Mercury dealer so borrowing one of these from one of my techs is pretty easy. It does work, and it works well, but if you are not in there changing stuff and dropping coolant on a fairly regular basis, the method I posed works, and works well enough that I rarely bother to borrow and hook up a radkitplus.

You also need a compressed air source that will flow a healthy amount of air to pull a decent vacuum, my little tire filler job tanked because I was using it for stuff it was a little too small for, this being one of them.

Ebay link --> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/-COOLING-SYSTEM-SERVICE-SET-BLUEPOINT-RADKITPLUS-SNAPON_W0QQitemZ180296196269QQcmdZViewItemQQimsxZ20081004?IMSfp=TL081004102003r36098