View Full Version : SVE wheels, longer studs and wheel spacer

05-09-2010, 03:27 PM
I have decided to sell my BBS RK Plasma wheels (18x8.5 front, 18x10 rear) which fit perfectly on my 04 Cobra without any modifications. At the time when I bought them, they were the only wheels I could find that had a dish effect for the rear wheel. One of the rear wheels began to peel so I had it sent out for PVD coating which looks identical to the original BBS plasma finish. I do have a full set of Ford 10th anniversary wheels, but the rear fitment sinks in, and the front sticks out. I could easily cure this problem with 3/8" to 1/2" hubcentric wheel spacer but the factory studs were too short. I decided to get the SVE wheels in the 17x10.5 rear and see how that looks with the Ford wheel. Very close but machined dish surface just did not look right with the Ford wheel on the front so I got the matching SVE wheels in the 17x9 to complete the package. I ordered the wheels with the Sumitomo tires, and in anticipation of clearance issues I also ordered the MM IRS bolt. To my surprise, did not matter if I used the MM bolt, wheel would not fit (interference with the IRS frame mount). :(
With the vehicle on the ground, there was about 1/8" clearance, but that is only if all wheels remain planted on the ground when driving. There are many times I end up lifting one of the rear wheels. I simulated that with a floor jack, and tire rub and interference would result.

Longer wheel studs and a 3/8" hubcentric wheel spacer was needed.

There are many sites that have great write-ups on replacing wheel studs.
A good resource: http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/how-230/606861-how-arp-wheel-stud-install.html

To facilitate removal of the wheel stud, I found that a good rust penetrating oil (PB Blaster penetrating catalyst) which also worked great as a lubricant when installing the new wheel stud. You will need a small sledge hammer (do not use a typical carpenter's hammer ). The last tool I found useful was a propane torch. Heating the hub above ambient temperature (100F to 180F) made stud removal a lot easier. One may argue that applying heat to the hub will cause problems to the bearings and such, I beg to differ, your brake rotors will heat the hub to much higher temperatures. Also, give the penetrating oil some time to work before making blows to the studs.

I used the ARP 100-7723 studs which closely match the same design as the original stud but longer in length. (the 100-7723 lists for 05+ mustangs but will fit the rear hub on 03/04 cobra's. I chose the ARP 100-7723 since they are 3.1" in length compared to those offered on some web sites that are 3.5" in length. Moroso studs would be the alternative choice.

To install the new studs, you will need to find 1/2-20 nuts at an auto parts store (do not bother with Home depot or Lowes for the 1/2" nuts, they only carry nuts in coarse thread and will not work). I found 1/2-20 nuts that were flat on both sides made by Dorman (part number 763-014) to drive the studs onto the hub. Work in stages to seat the stud. Begin by tightening then loosen the nut and reapply lubrication (cools down the stud and gives you a chance to clean the threads). A one inch stack of 1/2 steel washers will be needed to install the stud. Once complete, you can reuse the washers and two of the flat nuts to secure the rotor in place temporarily when you install the brakes.

There are many sources for the wheel spacer. I used the Lethal Performance 3/8" spacer that came with extended lug nuts. Since I opted for longer studs, I be using open lug nuts. The extended shank on the lug nuts appears to be very thin which may break off when you tighten the lug. If you were to compare the extended lug to that of a typical mag wheel lug the shank is much thicker but that would require drilling of the holes on the wheel, not a good option since conical seat lug nuts are not common with that style of lug nut.

Once completed, I took some pictures of the Ford wheel without a spacer just to show how long the studs would be.

Comment on the Sumitomo tires: When I bought the rear 17x10.5 wheel/tire combo from latemodelrestoration, I realized that my ford 10th anniversary wheels had bald tires mounted on them. I took two of the wheels and had the same tire mounted. On the front, tracking was perfect. I did not experience the wander and uncontrolled steering during hard braking on poor road surfaces as I had often found with other tires. I also moved them on the rear to see if they hook up on the street. Not bad at all. Close to performance as my Toyo Proxes T-1R tires on the BBS wheels. All said and done with the SVE wheels and Sumitomo tires on all 4 corners (275/40-17 up front, and 315/35-17 in the rear) I would almost believe I had the Toyo Proxes T-1R tires back on the car except the taller profile tires offered some ride comfort. Not sure how well if at all the Sumitomo tires would handle in the rain. I doubt that they would compare to the Toyo Proxes T-1R tires. I will find out some time. The Sumitomo tires were low cost. So far performance is impressive. If I like them in the long run, I will stick with them. If they suck, well, not many options open for the 315/35-17. I may go with Nitto, or Veidestrien.

05-09-2010, 03:36 PM
Here are the pictures of the car with the SVE 10th anniversary replica wheels. I could have gotten away with the Ford wheel up front but it did not look right with the deep dish wheel in the rear. So I opted to get the complete set.

Also, If I chose to do so, the SVT center caps will fit the SVE wheels, but I opted to use the SVE center cap with the SVE wheel. Now I am back in business, have some nice wheels for car shows and daily driver, and some stock wheels for track use. :thumbsup:

Some may not like the SVE wheels, does not matter. I like the style of the 10th anniversary wheel, and the SVE wheel comes close. There are others that I have seen on the web, I just did not like the way the spokes met the wheel lip and there is a projection where the center cap goes. The SVE wheel is more of a match to the ford 10th anniversary wheel in spoke design and at the center of the wheel.

05-26-2010, 01:25 PM
I will have to say that I am a bit impressed with the Sumitomo tires. Street tracking is great and the ride is comfortable. The front wheels do sit in the same geometric plane as the 10th anniversary wheels, but having the wider rear tire and an additional offset with the spacer puts the rear in line with the front wheels. When driving on some poor roads ( ruts from heavy trucks) I do not have the same issue with the car riding out of the rut into the opposing traffic. (this was really an issue with the BFG tires and the ford wheels).

Traction is good and I have not noticed any issues yet. I have not had any wheel hop either (never has been an issue with my car to start with unless the tread becomes hard due to wear and age. When I took off the BBS wheels to have the one refinished, I put the 17x9 10th anniversary wheels back on the car but the tires were a bit worn. The old BFG KDW's did not like being on the rear and would hop at any chance I attempted to accelerate. So far, the Sumitomo tires grip as good as the Toyo T1-R tires on dry pavement.