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View Full Version : Best L/T combo for 4.6 4V


White98SVT
02-10-2003, 10:30 PM
I'm seriously looking into purchasing some long tubes now and I was curious as to everyone's experiences with them. I've read coutless posts on how bad Mac's are on the 96-98's so I'm staying clear of them. Anyone have any other info for me on this?

Thanks.

Big Daddy
02-10-2003, 10:48 PM
I got Kooks headers through JDM Performance and they have been doing the job so far! :D

tnturbo
02-10-2003, 11:09 PM
I've seen nothing but good stuff about the Kooks. Not sure if tranny comes out with them in. Robert Hindman runs a set on his car and he tells me you can't drop the tranny with them in, but that there has been a design change so maybe you can. He also tells me they are the easiest LT's to install. I'll attach a few pics of a set of these.

tnturbo
02-10-2003, 11:15 PM
pic of Kooks header

tnturbo
02-10-2003, 11:15 PM
another

tnturbo
02-10-2003, 11:18 PM
another one

tnturbo
02-10-2003, 11:19 PM
one more

White98SVT
02-10-2003, 11:20 PM
Thanks for the info and pics guys. I really haven't heard much about the Kooks.

I do have the lead on a set of used BBK's with a hi flow X pipe that I'm working on. Any negatives/positives with them? They price is right on them.

tnturbo
02-10-2003, 11:22 PM
I've never heard anything real bad about the BBK headers. Several people here are running them. You can't remove your tranny with them installed and the install is a little harder as they are not individual tube/slip fit collector design like the Kooks. If the price is right, I wouldn't be afraid of them.

temjin9876
02-11-2003, 06:08 PM
Originally posted by White98SVT
I'm seriously looking into purchasing some long tubes now and I was curious as to everyone's experiences with them. I've read coutless posts on how bad Mac's are on the 96-98's so I'm staying clear of them. Anyone have any other info for me on this?

Thanks.

you and me both....my mechanic has been barkin at me to get longtubes for a while. The best set I found through all my research was the Hooker longtubes. They are designed so that you can drop the tranny without header removal. The best place I found to buy them was Dallas Mustang.

They go with an offroad x-pipe; so if you want to stay legal you might have to buy some cats and weld them in. That is the only reason they aren't on my car right now (also because there is a 25% chance you will start burning some mad oil with any longtube)

:thumbsup:

White98SVT
02-12-2003, 09:25 AM
This is what I ended up working out the deal on. It's a set of BBK ceramic coated long tubes and a "prototype" stainless Hi Flow X pipe:
http://www.mustangmods.com/publish/White98SVT/2/DSCF0204.JPG

smashedheadcat
02-13-2003, 04:26 PM
I guess i'm a little late, but I figured i'd chime in anyway. The BBK's are great pieces. They are hard to install, but Not any harder than any other long tube. I think disassmbling a kooks header, and then trying to get it back together would be more trouble than what it's worth. I witnessed an install of kooks long tube headers on a 98 yellow cobra at true blue. They were having some major problems getting it right. Biggest issue was getting the steering shaft back in place. They ended up going with a flaming river piece to get it together. Many curse words, and wishes for BBK's were heard in the shop that day. They are great for 99-up cobras, but the 98 was painful. With BBKs, it's not that hard. Time consuming........ yes, but not too bad. I was able to twist the engine enough to get the headers in and out rather easily. I accomplished this after learning my lesson the first time. You've got some good headers there, and i'm sure you'll be happy with them. Make sure you get o2 extension wires though.

White98SVT
02-13-2003, 05:09 PM
Originally posted by smashedheadcat
I guess i'm a little late, but I figured i'd chime in anyway. The BBK's are great pieces. They are hard to install, but Not any harder than any other long tube. I think disassmbling a kooks header, and then trying to get it back together would be more trouble than what it's worth. I witnessed an install of kooks long tube headers on a 98 yellow cobra at true blue. They were having some major problems getting it right. Biggest issue was getting the steering shaft back in place. They ended up going with a flaming river piece to get it together. Many curse words, and wishes for BBK's were heard in the shop that day. They are great for 99-up cobras, but the 98 was painful. With BBKs, it's not that hard. Time consuming........ yes, but not too bad. I was able to twist the engine enough to get the headers in and out rather easily. I accomplished this after learning my lesson the first time. You've got some good headers there, and i'm sure you'll be happy with them. Make sure you get o2 extension wires though.

Thanks a lot for the reply. He is selling me the 02 sensor harness extensions with the kit. With the price of these I really think that I can't go wrong other than a more consuming and definatley painfull install. I'm not sure if I should go at this myself or pay a shop to have it done. Since I'm in college I definately would like to do this myself to save the money, but time to do it is definately an issue.

I'm kind of lost on what to do.

smashedheadcat
02-13-2003, 11:41 PM
The headers look impossible to do, but it gets a lot easier. First off, if you don't have a lift, jack the front of the car and put jack stands under there. Get it high, but not too high. You need to be able to work from the top of the car as well. I took the wheels off, to better access everything under there. You don't have to do that, but it made it easier for me. Then, disconnect the battery, and remove the existing H-pipe. Remove the nuts from the engine mounts. There's only one on each side. There's an access hole in the K-member for you to stick a socket with an extension through. From there (I used a cherry picker) move the engine up as high as you possibly can without ripping wires and such. It's easy to tell if it's snagged up on something. If you don't have a cherry picker, a floor jack with piece of wood on it will do. Just put it under the oil pan. The directions say that you need to remove the starter to do the job, but I didn't have to. From there, it's just a battle of getting the bolts in. With a cherry picker, you can twist the engine as need be, which helps a lot. This job is a frustrating one, but it's a definate learning expirience. Be prepared to have some cut up knuckles, and have beer on-hand, it's a battle. One big help for me as to keep the emission tubes off of the driver side header until you get it in there. It just doesn't feed through if it's on there. If you have any questions, feel free to ask. Send any reply here, or PM. I'll help as much as I can.

White98SVT
02-13-2003, 11:52 PM
Josh,
Thanks for the help man that really made the install a little more down to earth for me if that makes sense. I've got some instructions and some buddies to help out but I'll definately let you know if I have any other questions.


Oh yeah, one more question......do you absolutely have to remove the K-member to do the job? Most guys say it makes it much easier....but from the looks of it, it would be more of a pain to remove it and then re-install it.

smashedheadcat
02-14-2003, 12:07 AM
I did mine without removing the K-member. I've never removed a K-member before, so I just went with what I knew. One thing that will help a lot is getting the engine high enough. Disconnect whatever you have to to get the motor up so you can get your hands in there. I had to take off the oil filter the first time, so be prepared to do that. One more thing. Since you have aluminum heads, it's easy to crossthread the bolts. They will go all the way in by hand, if they don't then you're wrong. Try to get the very bottom/rear bolts on first. Don't tighten down any bolts until they are all in. Don't forget to put the gasket on there, i know it sounds stupid, but it happens :D

The K-member: I kept mine in, but if you want to remove the K-member, you can. If the K-member wasn't there, the job would be easy. I mean a joke to do. The K-member is, or holds onto everything that gets in your way. If you decide to drop the K-member, I'd imagine you'd just take the springs out, then support the engine somehow, and start unbolting. Just make sure you don't drop the K-member on yourself. I have no idea how heavy they are, or how you'd be able to lower it easily. It looks like a straight forward removal and install process, but I just never done one before.

White98SVT
02-14-2003, 12:19 AM
Thanks a ton for the help Josh......hopefully a few buddies and I can take care of it. I'll let you know if I have any more questions.

smashedheadcat
02-14-2003, 08:57 AM
Originally posted by White98SVT
Thanks a ton for the help Josh......hopefully a few buddies and I can take care of it. I'll let you know if I have any more questions.

Just shoot with any questions. I'm out in the "sand box" now, but i'll try to get on here as much as I can.

White98SVT
02-14-2003, 03:32 PM
Originally posted by smashedheadcat
Just shoot with any questions. I'm out in the "sand box" now, but i'll try to get on here as much as I can.

Well first and foremost I'd like to thank you for the job you're doing overseas. I wasn't aware you are in the military. Just to let you know I think the job you are doing is a great one and you have my full support and wish for a speedy and safe return home. I really respect what you're doing.

And thanks for the L/T help too:thumbsup:

smashedheadcat
02-15-2003, 12:31 AM
Hey, I'm here to help. :D:thumbsup: