View Full Version : Steeda Timing Adjuster Q:A

09-12-2003, 11:19 AM
Does any one here have the steeda T/A??

Because I was thinking about buying one but I'm not sure on how it exactly works. I have a 97 cobra that has 4.10 gears, o/r/h, and borla's. My car idle sucks and it likes to shut off while sitting at a stop light. I have to have the air conditioner on to run to get a normal idle.

My question is will the steed T/A fix my idle problem since my timing is off? And do I have to get steeda's pulley's since there both from the same manufacture or can I get March, BBK, or MAC pulley's with steeda's T/A??????


09-12-2003, 01:50 PM
A timing adjuster probably won't fix your problem....which sounds more like a stuck IAC. You can try cleaning it with carb-cleaner or just buy another one and replace it.

A timing adjuster allows you to advance or retard the timing across the entire rpm band. If you advance timing it doesn't make your idle higher so like I said....it probably won't fix your problem.

You don't have to get Steedas but I believe you need which ever ones have their own balancer instead of piggybacking the stock one on the pulleys.

09-18-2003, 04:14 PM
tom, i told you earlier that my car seems to backfire when i am running hard. you suggested that i get a timing adjuster or a chip burned for my car. which would you suggest for my application? I currently have a CAI, O/R H pipe, and 2 chamber flowmaster.

09-18-2003, 04:26 PM
I'd go with a timing adjuster....you really don't have enough mods to justify the expense of getting a chip tuned for your car ($450 + for the chip plus $200 and up for the dyno time).

You should be able to advance the timing to 14 degrees or so, most Cobras don't do well higher than that. Something you'd probably want to test on a dyno with wide-band metering. Make a pull at base, cool, change the advance to 12 or 14, make another pull, cool change to 16 and make another pull until you get the most HP without detonating.

The cheaper route would be to install it and boost it to 13 degrees without all the dyno expense. Listen carefully for any knocking at upper RPM.