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lifeat26psi
11-20-2003, 01:08 PM
What's up guys, im over from fuelslut.com, im probably gonna be a future post whore here. im just curious, has anyone here built up an NA 32 valve? Everybody i see who has a fast cobra is blown or turbo'd. I want to try to get my car deep into the 12's if not high 11's NA. i know its more expensive, but i have some time. My best time at atco so far is 14.4 at 102. My next step is some nice radials, then 4.10's.

cobrabitn
11-20-2003, 01:13 PM
If you don't do a lot of driving on the street, I'd go 4:30's or 4:56's for the dragstrip if you want 11's.

The next thing to do is to reduce weight because every 100 lbs lost is about a tenth in the 1/4 mile. Not sure why, but your times are a little slow for a Snake. With a trap speed of 102 mph you should be in the mid to low 13's.

Somehow I sense a need for practice.... :bounce: :bounce: :thumbsup:

lifeat26psi
11-20-2003, 01:20 PM
Dont worry, i have been practicing, but its def a traction issue, i find my car sliding well into 3rd gear, im still pulling 2.3 60fts, i know that can get better, but my main concern is 2nd gear. Thats why i need radials.
i do a lot of street driving, thats why im going for the 4.10's.

cobrabitn
11-20-2003, 01:23 PM
Get a set of drag radials, believe me, I dropped 4 tenths just changing tires. If you get your 60 foot down to 2.0 then you will drop a half second or more righ there. The tires will get you what you need. :thumbsup:

lifeat26psi
11-20-2003, 01:30 PM
ok, ready for problem #2?
I bought the car with an ugly set of borbet's with michelin pilot 275's in the rear. I have the stock cobra's with snow tires.
Now to the question, do i buy a set of crappy 15's and get radials for that, and just use them for the track?
or do i put et streets onto my stock cobra's or nitto 555r's? Cause traction on the street is an issue also, i find myself squirrely till third gear on the street too. I drive a lot on this car, so i need the tires streetable.

cobrabitn
11-20-2003, 01:44 PM
I do not recommend drag radials for the street because they aren't very good on the street unless they have heat on them.

Secondly, you are sure to hydroplane if you have what I have Nittos Drag Radials. You will also kick up every rock and screw up the paint on the bottom of your quarter panels.

Although smaller rims and tires are recommended. I opted to have the stock wheel look and get the bigger fatter tires. Just get what you like best and make the best of it. Anything will be an improvement over stock.

;)

lifeat26psi
11-20-2003, 01:53 PM
well, thats the thing, i really like the stock wheels with meats in the rear, and i really dont know my options at this point, thats why im asking for help. I need something for grip, i want sidewall mainly. I dont know what my options are, I just bought this car in september, but im used to ricer **** for my supra. This is a whole new world for me right now, so any help, pretend like im not completely an idiot, but pretty close.
I understand how the car works, and ive got a good feel for her, i dont know how suspension will affect it, i dont know how tires will affect it, and i want to build it NA, thats all i know right now.

cobrabitn
11-20-2003, 07:01 PM
Get you an extra set of rims and put some drag radials on it. I'm not sure what the largest tire you can put on a stock 97 rim but I would go with Potenzas 730's or Firehawks SZ 50's for best grip in the rain and all around best street performance tire.


No question is a stupid question and I think you will find a wealth of information on this BB or you can join the technical mailing list and talk to 400 other Cobra/Mustang owners here:

svtcobra-subscribe@yahoogroups.com

Lastly, Join SCMC as we are a fun group with a helpful attitude. It'll be a great investment in your hobby. ;)

smashedheadcat
11-20-2003, 07:32 PM
Hi there, and welcome to the site. I'll give you what I can as far as knowledge goes.

First off, practice is going to give you the biggest gains. You should shave at least 4-5 tenths off that time with practice. If you want 11's N/A, you're going to have to drive that thing like you stole it. I'd say a minimum of 4.56's would be required for this. Next, start with a set of long tubes (anything but MAC), off road x or h pipe and the catback of your choice. A tubular K-member and coilovers on the front would be very beneficial in making it to the 11's n/a. A shifter is a must. I'd go with at least an open K&N filter on the intake side. Also, you'll need some sticky tires. ET Streets, slicks or BF drag radials. The drag radials probably won't give you enough stick to get 11's, but they're pretty grippy. Lastly, weight. Start shedding weight, move the battery to the trunk, ditch the front sway bar, and anything else you can do to get that thing as light as possible. Now, you'd have to launch at a very high rpm, that stresses the driveline big time. So eventually, a tranny, and built rear is would become a must. So as you can see, this is very expensive as well. It may require more to get there, but this would be a start.

smashedheadcat
11-20-2003, 07:34 PM
Originally posted by lifeat26psi
ok, ready for problem #2?
I bought the car with an ugly set of borbet's with michelin pilot 275's in the rear. I have the stock cobra's with snow tires.
Now to the question, do i buy a set of crappy 15's and get radials for that, and just use them for the track?
or do i put et streets onto my stock cobra's or nitto 555r's? Cause traction on the street is an issue also, i find myself squirrely till third gear on the street too. I drive a lot on this car, so i need the tires streetable.

If i was going to switch out rims for the track, I'd have a track only tire. May as well get the most grip out of the tire if I'm going to be switching them out. That's just me though.

lifeat26psi
11-21-2003, 11:09 AM
i currently have an american thunder cat back, a bbk cold air, a short shifter, and lowering springs (not to my liking.)
next on the list is def radials or et streets, then 410's. i do highway driving, so anymore than that is out of the question. i had bbk long tubes but they were stolen before i got a chance to put them on. I have insurance on them so when that clears up, ill be getting my tires/wheels with that and save up the rest for gears. After that i want to finish up the exhaust and then do engine work, like cams, chip, head work.

smashedheadcat
11-21-2003, 12:02 PM
You will not get into the 11's with 4.10 gears. I'm not saying it's impossible, but I've yet to see someone do it N/A. Of course, if it's going to happen, you'd have to severely lighten your car. I'll be the one to tell you, that 4.10's are the conservative side of the house. A 4.30 would be the best choice for what you want to do in my opinion. The difference in 4.10's to 4.30's is so minute you'd never notice (gas mileage etc), but it would be more beneficial to you in your race to 11's N/A. There are others out there that run the 4.56's on the street, and are very happy with them. Of course the engine will rev higher at cruise, but these things love rpms. I think you'd have to settle with 12's if you stay with the 4.10's unless you get some serious motorwork done, or gut the car out to save weight. Or, go the way most of us do, and get the supercharger. :)

Tires: Do not run ET streets on the street. They will last you about 1000 miles. It would be dangerous in wet weather, and expensive as well. The car would float around on that soft sidewall as well. If you have your heart set on drag radials, go with the nitto's. The BFG's will give you more bite, but they last about 4000 miles. That's how long mine lasted, and I only used them at the track 1 night. They just wither away whether you spin them or not. The nitto's would be the best choice for you if you want grip on the street. Heck, I think a stock geared cobra would hook just fine with the firestone firehawks in a 255/45 size personally.

lifeat26psi
11-21-2003, 02:39 PM
what about cam's? How much will a set of shm stage 2's affect my car, considering everything else in my head is stock?

smashedheadcat
11-21-2003, 10:21 PM
I bet you'd pick up 15-20rwhp with a set of cams. It's really expensive to do those swaps. Tcrews car is the only cammed 4.6 i've heard in the flesh, and it was mean sounding. It just seemed so snappy.

Most 4.6's I see seem to top off in the low 300 range for rwhp. With some head work, intake porting, cams, long tubes, exhaust, underdrive pulleys, maf, IMRC deletes etc, it'll top out around 320-340rwhp. You can always turn the RPMS way up there and possibly squeeze more out it. I'm no expert on this stuff, I'm just trying to pass what I've seen and read in the past.

lifeat26psi
11-23-2003, 05:24 PM
guys, ive finally come to a conclusion.

Im getting a blower, our cars dont have enough low end torque to hold with ls1's.
Ive pretty much got my heart set on the Kenne Belle Twin Screw.
I believe 11's should be within reach with that.

oh and a cam set with an exchange is usually 650, 900 no core.

tcrews
11-23-2003, 10:59 PM
I HIGHLY recommend Nitto Dragradials for the street and any car that wants great traction on the street for those occaisionaly romps that none of us ever do :)

I have zero problems with hydroplaning or anything else of that sort and I've been running Nitto dragradials since July, 2000. They'll wear a bit quicker than a standard street tire but still last well for their price and ability to stick.

That being said, on the stock rim you can squeeze a 275/40/17 (nitto dragradial only) on the rim as this particular brand/series run narrower than others. You'll get better traction with the stock size though (245/45/17) it just won't look as "mean".

4.30 gears would be my suggestion. You'll love them after the first day of driving (it'll take a bit to get used too and then you'd never want to go back). It'll make the car feel like it's about a 1000 pounds lighter. Much more responsive feeling and if driven right (using 5th gear in town) your gas mileage won't suffer much at all. Highway driving is no problem as the engine is quite comfortable pulling a little higher rpm than it does with the stock 3.27 gears.

11's are hard to hit N/A but it can be done. Doing it on a 'streetable' tire and with 4.10s (even 4.30s) is just not going to happen. 12's would be easy to reach though with the proper 'bolt on' mods and a well driven car.

Cams aren't worth it unless you are doing a lot more at the same time. With 4 cams, timing is critical and removal of the engine is all most a requirement to get proper timing/alignment done. If you want cams, get the heads ported as well or you aren't going to see a lot of gains. The two go hand in hand with these motors.

First thing I'll say about adding a supercharger of any type/brand....do you have the money for a rebuild when it becomes neccessary? If not, keep that in mind as sooner or later the engine is going to let go from the added stress the engine is being "forced" to do to make the increased power.

smashedheadcat
11-24-2003, 07:01 AM
Cam swap............ I was quoted $700 labor once I pulled the engine. You can however, just lift the engine out of the mounts (k-member), and move it forward enough to get the cam timing tool in there though. :thumbsup:

JC
11-24-2003, 10:16 AM
I have the SHM Stage 1 Cams and Ported heads... The combo of ported heads + blower cams + LT's + boost is a lot of fun... :thumbsup:

Go for it !!!