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View Full Version : Dummy oil gauge fix, anyone wondered about this????


Firme
01-23-2004, 01:22 PM
As you all know, the oil gause is a dummy gauge, its basically the same as a on/off light, but with a gauge that always goes to the middle instead of on.

Well, people have been posting this.. a way to make it functional with minimal $$.. anyone try this or want to, to see if it works??

How to fix the gauge (http://rogueperformance.com/oilsw.html)

Bartman01
01-23-2004, 04:01 PM
I remember reading a lot about this back in '99 or so. Basically the info I came away with was that it was possible to modify the older cars, but not the newer ones. Don't rember the exact years that it could be done to, but I am sure that the 99's and up are excluded.

Edit: this mod is different than the ones I had seen before - so it may actually work on the new cars. The old mod just involved mucking with the instrument cluster.

Josh968
01-23-2004, 04:38 PM
I found another way to fix it.

Get a Porsche :D

Mystic Cobra
01-23-2004, 04:58 PM
Hey Firme:

Is it a dummy gauge in the 04 also?? I've been looking at the temp gauge and the boost gauge but not the pressure gauge, I love to watch that boost gauge!:thumbsup:

Firme
01-23-2004, 06:04 PM
Jeff,
Yeah I think the 04 had dummy gauges also for oil...

Josh, hmm I'll check the Pep boys.. see if they have a cheap one :D

Al C
01-24-2004, 10:05 AM
Steve Fuller, SCOA Webmaster, has a how to on his home page. He has a 96 Mystic and documented the procedure with pics and a write up. He reports that Ford changed the gage and instrument panel circuit mid year 96 making the change he documented not possible newer COBRAS. From what I have read the newer gage cannot be made to indicate anything but a mid scale reading. For a while it was reported that Ford Racing was going to market a kit to replace the dummy oil gage, but the marketing guys must have killed it as I have not read anything about it in a long time.

Fuller's tech write-up: http://www.sfuller.net/projects/cobra/oilgauge/index.htm

Carl G
01-25-2004, 11:43 AM
I addressed this Saturday with the guys at Nathanials.
We are going to add a functional oil pressure guage wihen we install th other 4 guages after the motor is in.

Firme
01-25-2004, 11:53 AM
Originally posted by Carl G
I addressed this Saturday with the guys at Nathanials.
We are going to add a functional oil pressure guage wihen we install th other 4 guages after the motor is in.

yup, look like some of us may have to get an aftermarket gauge if we want a true readout. I just though it would be neat to make the factory gauge functional.

:doubt:

Al C
01-28-2004, 08:34 PM
If you add an aftermarket extra oil pressure gage you want to be choosy where you locate the presure transmitter. The most common location people use is the extra hole near the factory transmitter that has a plug in it. The factory transmitter location is near the oil filter on the oil cooler. The problem with this location it doesn't really give you a good reading of what the true pressure is in the engine. The pressure readings are all too high. At start up pressures in excess of 90 psi will be seen and cruising down the highway pressures will be 60+. 30 psi at a warm idle. There is a good discussion on the SCOA BBS. http://scoa.achavis.net/ubb/Forum7/HTML/001330.html

A better location is at the front of the passenger side head where there is a plug that goes to the oil galley in the head. It is a tight fit to install with the shock tower and the ac plumbing - see a pic of the location at http://users2.ev1.net/~w8368/opmod.htm

Al C
01-28-2004, 08:54 PM
Carl,

Since your engine is apart you may want to consider billet oil pump gears. The factory gears are known to fail on race modular engines or ones that see sustained high rpm use. Sean Hyland has them for $295.

Some people say the factory oil pump gear fail because the 4.6 4v heads retain a lot of oil at high rpms - the oil doesn't drain fast enough back to the pan. The theory goes the oil pump begins to starve for oil and then breaks when a slug of oil hits it.

Some engine builders recommend enlarging the head drain holes to match the diameter of the ones in the block to solve the drain back restriction. Still others say the solution is to use a 7 quart Canton road race oil pan. I have also read that SVT engineers have told Cobra owners to add and extra quart of oil when at the track - thats what I do.

Al

Carl G
01-28-2004, 09:02 PM
Originally posted by Al C
Carl,

Since your engine is apart you may want to consider billet oil pump gears. The factory gears are known to fail on race modular engines or ones that see sustained high rpm use. Sean Hyland has them for $295.

Some people say the factory oil pump gear fail because the 4.6 4v heads retain a lot of oil at high rpms - the oil doesn't drain fast enough back to the pan. The theory goes the oil pump begins to starve for oil and then breaks when a slug of oil hits it.

Some engine builders recommend enlarging the head drain holes to match the diameter of the ones in the block to solve the drain back restriction. Still others say the solution is to use a 7 quart Canton road race oil pan. I have also read that SVT engineers have told Cobra owners to add and extra quart of oil when at the track - thats what I do.

Al Good advice Al ---I will address withthe guys at Nathanials. They were working on the heads today with the polishing. Things are coming together well. See you at the track soon.