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Mephisto
02-11-2004, 11:42 AM
Installing a subwoofer in the cobra. The only thing I am missing is a remote on. Does anyone know which wire coming out of the headunit could be used for this purpose? Does anyone hav a clear wiring diagram for the mach headuint with CD palyer?

Firme
02-11-2004, 02:28 PM
Hmm, can you run a remote wire to the fuse box?

I prolly have the diagram at home, I will look after work

cobrapace94
02-11-2004, 02:42 PM
Don't have a wiring diagram, but could connect to the stock amp wires, using a meter to determine which one turns on when the key is turned on.
I didn't think putting a amp & sub on the Mach 460 system would work? The Mach 460 is a 4 ohm system and the aftermarket amp & subs were 2 ohm. Of so I have been told, it could not be done & get good sound out of it.
How are you connecting to the stock system.

97CasperCobra
02-11-2004, 03:14 PM
Damn...didn't know we had so many "stereo" peeps in here. What kind you installing Henry??? I'm sure my Haynes manual shows the wiring diagram, though I'm not sure if it's the same as our radio's are different.

Firme
02-11-2004, 05:52 PM
Originally posted by cobrapace94
Don't have a wiring diagram, but could connect to the stock amp wires, using a meter to determine which one turns on when the key is turned on.
I didn't think putting a amp & sub on the Mach 460 system would work? The Mach 460 is a 4 ohm system and the aftermarket amp & subs were 2 ohm. Of so I have been told, it could not be done & get good sound out of it.
How are you connecting to the stock system.

I don't know about Henry, but the common practive is that you need a LINE OUT CONVERTER (can be bought at anywhere like best buy) and you basically tap into your rear speaker lines and it provides you with an RCA preamp feed. Its not as clean as having an actual head unit pre-amp out, but its good enough for some thumpin base.

I have done lots of car stereo stuff in my day :)

Bartman01
02-11-2004, 06:45 PM
I've got a copy of the 2001 shop manual on CD with wiring diagrams. Not always the easiest to read, but I can bring it next Tuesday.

Firme
02-11-2004, 10:30 PM
ok, hope this doesn't give you a headache, but you're an engineer so I guess it won't

here are some diagrams, you have to sift throught them

diagram 1 (http://www.svtmustangcobraclub.com/imgs/misc/mach460/1.jpg)
diagram 2 (http://www.svtmustangcobraclub.com/imgs/misc/mach460/2.jpg) <---good one
diagram 3 (http://www.svtmustangcobraclub.com/imgs/misc/mach460/3.jpg)
Power Distribution (http://www.svtmustangcobraclub.com/imgs/misc/mach460/power%20distribution.jpg) :eek:

Bartman01
02-12-2004, 12:36 AM
Originally posted by Firme
ok, hope this doesn't give you a headache, but you're an engineer so I guess it won't

here are some diagrams, you have to sift throught them

How did you get those to come out? I tried copy and paste but the image was shifted to the right and wrapped back around (the right most couple of inches were on the left side of the image). Tried pasting into multiple apps too with the same results.

Firme
02-12-2004, 01:08 AM
Originally posted by Bartman01
How did you get those to come out? I tried copy and paste but the image was shifted to the right and wrapped back around (the right most couple of inches were on the left side of the image). Tried pasting into multiple apps too with the same results.

screen capture :D (one of my favorite utils called "hardcopy" made by some german dude) it has a rectangular caputer where you plot an area to capture on the fly.

Mephisto
02-12-2004, 11:37 AM
Thanks guys. I have got good news and bad news.

First, installed the sub just as Firme stated. Hooked off the rear speaker wires with an RCA line convertor (about $15). Found a access. wire in the fuse box for remote on. It was strange but all of the 12v volt wires running to the rear amps were hot even when the key was not even in the ignition. So the car is thumping way too load to even stand. Must work on the tune and tighten all of the loose parts in the rear end as the whole car rattles.

Bad news is that the rear drviers side seat well was full of water. The foam pad under the seat was moldy and stinky. My brother pulled his rear seat and his is also wet on the drviers side. Anyone with an 03 vert, I suggest you take about 2 minutes to pull the back seat bottom out and check.

Firme
02-12-2004, 12:00 PM
Originally posted by Mamba

Bad news is that the rear drviers side seat well was full of water. The foam pad under the seat was moldy and stinky. My brother pulled his rear seat and his is also wet on the drviers side. Anyone with an 03 vert, I suggest you take about 2 minutes to pull the back seat bottom out and check.

emmm...DOH:eek:

that sucks Henry

flynfink
02-12-2004, 03:39 PM
Yeah guys's that's correct, you need the adapter, already found that out though,,,, too late

97CasperCobra
02-12-2004, 03:49 PM
Originally posted by Mamba
Bad news is that the rear drviers side seat well was full of water.

DAMN...sorry to hear Henry. :( Can warranty cover anything like that???

so what kind of boom did you install???

Mystic_Cobra
02-13-2004, 12:52 PM
I have an amp and sub that is wired into the signal sent to the rear speakers. It was done when I got the car. The power on for the amp/sub is from one of the wires in the console.
I rewired a few things in there so it's hard to remember (fog lights, manual fan). I think there's a wire in there that is hot only when the car is on and he just spliced (tapped) into that.

Firme
02-13-2004, 02:03 PM
Here is a product Keith (evilcartman) recommend on another forum that caught my eye. I will definitely use this if I need to "Splice" anything into my fuse box in the future....

http://www.sportys.com/shoptool/information/products/Mini_Blade_Add_a_Circuit_Fuse_Holder.html

more pics
http://www.acurainspired.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=846



Thanks Keith :thumbsup:

Mephisto
02-13-2004, 02:09 PM
I installed a bazooka 10" amplified unit, RS10something. Sounds great to me. Very clear. Again only need the real subwoof tones. Plenty of thump. When parked in the garage the garage door rattles pretty violently. I would spend more money for quality speakers for mid to tweet range if I needed them. Keep turning it down as I am alot older than I realized and I am getting a headache after about 10 minutes in the car.

Went with bazooka for easy of install and to save some space (with the round tube and amp built in the tube). Fits well in trunk but does use up about 1/3rd of the space. Can still get to spare with unit installed which I don't think you could do any other way with a 10". It is at a 45 degree angle on the right side of the trunk facing the rear corner. Also easy to remove with wire harness and it just gets strapped down.

Tried to wire from the speakers directly to the unit just to check and save some $$, but got no sound at all. Needed the line converter to make it work properly.