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Stavesacre21
04-20-2004, 08:03 PM
Hey all. This may have possiably been covered in a place or 2, but after running a few searches, i still came up empty handed.

Anyhow, I know that most of you tend to use synthetic oil on this beast, and was wondering what type seems to run the best with the 4.6L engine. I previously used Valvoline with most of my cars, but seem to be hearin that Mobil 1 would be the best call. Anyone able to tell me otherwise, or at least shout out your $0.02 about their oil?

Also, this many very well be a stupid question, but as a newbie to the Cobra family, I feel a couple might be acceptable :rolleyes: . How many quarts of oil are we to be using in the 4.6L engine? If i'm correct, i've heard 6 quarts before, but would like to be sure before i go out and buy oil.

Thanx for yur time fellas

NO 5 OH
04-21-2004, 03:38 AM
I'll take a stab at answering your questions... just remember they're my opinion and those will vary from person to person ;)

I've always had great sucess with Amsoil in my cars. They make (again, my opinion) some of the best synthetic oils around, and other products as well. Mobil 1 runs a close second to Amsoil... those would be about the only two synthetics I'd try.

The factory spec for oil fill capacity is six quarts. If you fill it up with six, and then check the oil it should come up about halfway on the dipstick. I never really did like that too well so I always use 6 1/2 quarts and it comes up full on the dipstick.

Hope this helps,

Shannon

HoustonSnake
04-21-2004, 10:53 AM
Was hearing a ticking sound from the lifters I guess when I first got my cobra. I did an oil change with Mobil 1 0-30 and now I just hear my throw-out bearing going bad...no more ticking though! :D


Amsoil and Mobil 1 are top rated as mentioned above. Dunno about the price on Amsoil but I got a 5 quart jug of Mobil 1 at Walmart for 20 buck and a 1 quart for 4.xx so 6 quarts for 25 instead of 30.

Lumpydogs
04-21-2004, 11:38 AM
I too have run both Amsoil and Mobile 1 Syn. 0W-30. I'd recommend
either one. I've been told by a few mechanics that for DAILY DRIVING it
is more important to keep your oil clean/new, just about any applicable
SAE approved oil will be fine. (That's what they told me). :D

HoustonSnake
04-21-2004, 11:44 AM
many moons ago workin for Mobil's customer service/tech dept, we learned that the synthetic pumped quicker from the oil pan to lubricate the engine on start-up, which is where they said the most wear & tear on the engine takes place because the engine is not lubricated after it sits (oil drains back to the pan/bottom)

Stavesacre21
04-21-2004, 11:48 AM
Amsoil and Mobile 1 Syn. 0W-30
Again and again i'm hearing about 0W-30. This comes to me as a totally new shock, considering that the manual seems to state 5W-30. I've heard the meaning of these numbers before, but someone please refresh me on the difference if yout could. I'm thinkin the 0W or 5W represents some sort of "winter" factor? If I'm correct, the difference between 0W and 5W wouldn't porbably be that bad.

Anyhow, lemme know if any of you seem to know why the manual for the car would state differnt most of your preferneces.

BTW - on a minor note, the manual only talks about the 3.8L and 4.6L SOHC, nothing of our DOHC. Seem odd to any of you?

HoustonSnake
04-21-2004, 12:03 PM
W=weight. The numbers are the viscosity I believe...in any case the first number is how "thick"/viscous the oil is cold and the second is hot, lower the number the "thinner" it is. 0 being the most easiest to pump up from the oil pan but giving you 30W protection when your engine is at operating temp.

Stavesacre21
04-21-2004, 09:17 PM
OK, yea that does start to ring some bells now! :stupid:

Any idea why 0W seems to be prefurred over 5w as highly suggested in the owners manual?

My Cobra
04-22-2004, 10:12 AM
i recently went to a drive up lube place (greese monkey) they put 6 qrts in most the time i change my own oil and filters but i wanted to see how good of a job they did for the money. The cobra was not even in there system they did not know how much to put in. ha ha. i drive my cobra a lot should i use synthetic? worth the extra buck? i hear you can not go from synthetic to normal oil once you change is this correct? Also what oil filters do you guys use? K&N worth the extra buck or just buying the name and stickers?

HoustonSnake
04-22-2004, 10:49 AM
Stave, 0 or 5W is fine...0 because it pumps easier, hence lubricates faster on start up.

MyCobra, all false information you got. You can go from conv. to synthetic or the other way whenever you want. If anyone tells you otherwise, ask them why synthetic/conv. blends are used. Both are safe, would go either conv. or synthetic. You will, proven fact, get a longer life out of your engine using synthetic oil vs. a conv. I use the motorcraft filter. Read some bad stuff about FRAM but I'm not trashing them, do your homework. You will make ur decision from there.

My Cobra
04-22-2004, 11:16 AM
alright thanks. i guess they told me that to make more money off oil every time i come in there to get some. ha ha.

Lumpydogs
04-22-2004, 12:05 PM
Actually the new cobras manual states 5w-20. Many of us are not
real comfortable with the protection of 20 Weight oil. However, under
scientific lab conditions the engine 5W-20 would get slightly better gas
mileage than the engine with 5W-30 due to thinner oil.

0W-30 flows as good as 0 Weight Oil cold but doesn't get any thinner
than 30 Weight Oil when hot. (simplified version). :thumbsup:

p.s. A high mileage engine that has always run on conventional oil may
leak at the seals or rings if switched to a synthetic oil. This is because
the synthetic molecules have a more consistant and smaller size. The
Conventional oil molecules have a wide variety of sizes. (My $0.02)

HoustonSnake
04-22-2004, 02:06 PM
Actually the new cobras manual states 5w-20. Many of us are not
real comfortable with the protection of 20 Weight oil. However, under
scientific lab conditions the engine 5W-20 would get slightly better gas
mileage than the engine with 5W-30 due to thinner oil.

0W-30 flows as good as 0 Weight Oil cold but doesn't get any thinner
than 30 Weight Oil when hot. (simplified version). :thumbsup:

p.s. A high mileage engine that has always run on conventional oil may
leak at the seals or rings if switched to a synthetic oil. This is because
the synthetic molecules have a more consistant and smaller size. The
Conventional oil molecules have a wide variety of sizes. (My $0.02)Lumpy has some very valid points that I overlooked. My manual states 5-20 as well but I'm no longer under warranty so I don't concern myself with that. If you are under warranty you should stick to what the manufacturer has outlined as far as what type/grade/etc of fluids or risk voiding your warranty over something stupid.

He is also correct about the mileage HOWEVER I don't think that would be the case with a 5-20 conv. compared against a 5-30 syn. Not to mention that ANY difference in mileage would really be negligeable. There just is truly not any real comparison when it comes to the lubrication ability of a syn. vs. a con. Which translates into a longer living, cleaner running, more effecient engine which all save you money in the long haul.

Also correct is his statement about leaking from seals, gaskets, etc., HOWEVER it would also be correct in saying that if you notice a leak while using synthetic oil it is because you have a faulty seal or part, meaning worn due to high mileage, and the conv. oil has left deposits that are clogging/masking these problems. A very true statement is that if you have a leak now, synthetic CAN only make it worse not better. This is due to what Lumpy stated about the molecules, etc. and the deposits/sludge that conv. oils leave behind which tend to clog or clot those areas.

Also wanted to add that before adding synthetic I made sure I didn't have any leaks (examined my engine bay thoroughly, watched my driveway) I have changed from conv. oil to synthetic with my cobra at 88,000 miles and several years ago with a full size Bronco(5.8L 351) at 105,000 miles.

Stavesacre21
04-22-2004, 05:36 PM
Stave, 0 or 5W is fine...0 because it pumps easier, hence lubricates faster on start up.
Yea, that's what I pretty much figured, but wanted to check really quick before I head out to buy some oil. Thanx for the input though. I'm used to using Fram oil filters, but I think i'm gonna wing it and go all out on my new baby. K&N seems to get some really great reviews, so I think i'll go ahead and see if the extra $6 is worth it! I just realized something though.....lol....I have no idea where the oil filter will be located on the Cobra. Is it tough to reach? I know the Probe's filter was in the most aweful place imaginable...

ausie
04-23-2004, 07:18 AM
I stick with the 20w-50 racing oil by AMSOL in the cobra. You may think that I am crazy but I am not. I even have that in my Explorerer and drove that all winter long with temps dropping into the low teens. What is different about the AMSOL 20w-50 racing oil is that it is not thick as molassis like the conventional motor oil in the same viscosity. The cool thing about it there is an additive similar to the lucas oil products that aids in coating all of the parts and it does have a cling time too. My oil pressure did not change much either. In any case, I usually let the car or truck warm up a bit before dirving (one or two minutes if it is cold out). As far as dirty oil, even if your oil is black it will still lubircate. The reason it turns black is mainly due to the EGR systems. Exhaust gas recircultaion back into the intake will also make its way into the oil. Either by passing the rings or more so by seeping into the motor via the PVC valve under low vaccum (during shifting, etc...) Using a good oil filter is the most improtant thing to consider. As for synthetic oils either Red line or AMSOIL would be a wise choice. I used Mobil 1 for a short time up until they added some wear guard stuff in it. If the Mobil 1 is supposed to be a good oil, then why all of a sudden did they start putting that stuff in it? When I see those words, I think gunk and clogged oil screen on the oil pump. One thing to avoid are those gimmic brands like duralube and slick-50. They will cause more damage than the cost of the product. If you do not believe me, do a search on them and you may also see the posted law suits against them too.

My Cobra
04-23-2004, 10:09 AM
do you guys change your own oil and oil filters?? So amsol or whatever is the best? synthetic that is. so the extra cash for a k&N oil filter would pay off?

cowboyharry
04-23-2004, 11:06 AM
I use Ford Motorcraft oil & filter on mine. Thats just the way it is.

cowboyharry
04-23-2004, 11:07 AM
I use Ford Motorcraft oil & filter on mine. Thats just the way it is.
And I do change me own oil.

My Cobra
04-23-2004, 11:13 AM
ok cool. I do not really have a place to change mine at. too low to get under it need a ramp.

cowboyharry
04-23-2004, 05:11 PM
ok cool. I do not really have a place to change mine at. too low to get under it need a ramp.
Yeah, I have to drive mine up on a 4" x 12" board that I use for a ramp. And when you take the oil filter off, it is above the thingys that holds the front wheel on and oil gets all over it. Aint nutin wrong with taking it to the quikie oil change place. Just be sure you trust em with your car. Happy Motoring :thumbsup:

ausie
04-24-2004, 08:38 AM
I use a 6 ton floor jack and jack stands to get to my oil plug and filter. Since I have been using AMSOIL, I do not change the oil every 3000 miles. I keep in in the block for at least 6000k miles (entire summer). Every 3000 miles I just change the filter and add a quart. Usually by the time I get close to 4500 miles the color begins to darken a bit. AMSOIL is used by Truckers who have desel engines. They can run the oil for an extended period close to 100,000 miles. To do that requires a dual filtration attachement and you have to take samples of the oil every so often for analysis. I have no intentions of driving my car that long before changing oil. Depending on how many miles I drive during the summer I may only need to change it once. I usually keep a watchful eye on the oil levels. Color does not really indicate if the oil is bad or not unless it turns a milky brown color. Mobil 1 on the other hand (which is the first synthetic oil I used) worked great stayed clean until they changed the ingrediants a few years back which prompted me to get a better oil. I have not been impressed with Mobil 1. I am a believer in the AMSOIL product. The average cost of the AMSOIL 20w-50 is around $8.75 a quart. That may sound expensive, it has a dark red color, smells really bad but works very well. One other thing about it, I have noticed an increase in power (not much but there is a difference) over using conventional oil and Mobil 1. I was very skeptical at first, as I am with any product I use in or on my Cobra. I would even try RED LINE or ROYAL PURPLE if I knew where to get it.

HoustonSnake
04-24-2004, 11:51 AM
What you use and do can be completely different if you are under warranty or not. On other vehicles I've owned I've driven 10 to 15k before oil changes. Everyone makes thier own judgement call on that. I've never had an issue with performance, lubrication or anything else for that matter running Mobil 1. I think it is enough to run any full synthetic...cheaper the better.

Stavesacre21
04-24-2004, 01:05 PM
it is above the thingys that holds the front wheel on and oil gets all over it.
So from what ive gathered from that is that the curse of the stupid oil filter placement lives on with Ford...:edmond:

Never understood why they would put it right over something to leak all over. Guess it was the only place they could work it into.

Haven't tried changin the oil yet, but i sure hope it will fit on my ramps. Thanx all!

ausie
04-25-2004, 08:47 AM
Since you have a 1997 cobra, I am not sure where the filter is on that motor. With the 4.6L (whenever it was when Ford dropped the 5.0) I find changing the oil filter very easy and I do not have to get under the car completely to remove it. Mine is located on the dirver's side just in front and above the stearing rack. It is much easier to jack the car up to get to it though. As for the oil coating everything below the filter, it will not hurt anything. A little bit of cleaner and water will take care of that. I wish that Ford put the filter on the motor in a vertical position rather than a horizontal position so that you do not dump the contents of the filter all over the place when you change it. There are relocation kits available but I would soon rather keep the filter where it is.

Stavesacre21
04-25-2004, 12:17 PM
Had no idea that there was a such thing as a relocation kit. I don't know as though I would go as far as to pay excessive extra money to more the filter - it was just something that seemed to kinda drive me nuts about the probe. I have a feeling that it wil be in about the same place as it sounds like it is on yours, since they basically still use the same modular 4.6L V8 design. I'll be checkin it out shortly though!

ausie
04-26-2004, 07:13 AM
You should have seen where the filter was on an 87 Escort, located in the back of the engine above the exhaust pipes. Very hard to get any tool attached to it and no room to remove it. Ah yes the smell of burning oil for a few miles:D . The funny thing about that 1.9 L is that it ran better without the oil in it since it had nothing to burn with the fuel except air :rotf:

HoustonSnake
04-26-2004, 10:47 AM
just gotta try to be a little smarter then what your workin with fellas! :D


Take a big ziplock freezer bag with you the next time you get under to change the oil (and yes u have to go under the drivers side to get to it on the 97) Loosen up the oil filter with any oil filter wrench, BUT don't take it all the way off! Just loose enough to turn by hand. Take your plastic bag and put it over the oil filter, all the way up to the engine, and turn the oil filter from the outside of the plastic bag until it comes off. Making sure your holding the bag to catch the drips, let the filter fall to the bottom of the bag. Grab your rag (you do have a rag dont cha?) and place it under the drip area when it gets real slow. Close your zip lock bag and set it aside. Grab your new oil filter, swab the gasket with some of the excess oil and put it on. All done, no mess :p

Stavesacre21
04-26-2004, 10:44 PM
Take a big ziplock freezer bag with you the next time you get under to change the oil (and yes u have to go under the drivers side to get to it on the 97) Loosen up the oil filter with any oil filter wrench, BUT don't take it all the way off! Just loose enough to turn by hand. Take your plastic bag and put it over the oil filter, all the way up to the engine, and turn the oil filter from the outside of the plastic bag until it comes off. Making sure your holding the bag to catch the drips, let the filter fall to the bottom of the bag. Grab your rag (you do have a rag dont cha?) and place it under the drip area when it gets real slow. Close your zip lock bag and set it aside. Grab your new oil filter, swab the gasket with some of the excess oil and put it on. All done, no mess :p
I just might try that! :D


You should have seen where the filter was on an 87 Escort, located in the back of the engine above the exhaust pipes. Very hard to get any tool attached to it and no room to remove it.Yea, you just defined how it ran in the probe. You could not reach the filter from the top, but if you went from the bottom, you have to run your arm UP the engine bay about 2 1/2 feet PAST the exhaust manifold (which is still scalding hot, mind you) and somehow manage to get a grip around a filter, and turn it bare handed (cause no tool unless specially designed would ever fit up there). At the moment you finally managed to battle the filter off, you were so graciously anointed with oil.....scalding hot motor oil that is...LoL. In other words, I feel for you man.....:edmond:

Bartman01
04-27-2004, 01:40 AM
just gotta try to be a little smarter then what your workin with fellas! :D


Take a big ziplock freezer bag...

Using tinfoil to make a reservior for the oil and covering the rack works too.

ausie
04-27-2004, 06:41 AM
That 1.9L motor was the first aluminum block engine I ever owned. That little car just kept going. It finaly hit the pavement at 264,000 miles. I literally drove the car to the ground (right front frame mount cracked). The junkyard guy was surprised to see it still was running. It was the unitbody construction that could not take it any more. I certainly hope I can exceed that with the Cobra without it falling apart like the escord did. Escorts were not supposed to last that long. At least it got me through college.

HoustonSnake
04-27-2004, 09:43 AM
..At least it got me through college.
And that was really all that was important back then!! :) When you don't have two nickels to rub together it's the small things like that which are a true blessing! :cool:

My beater is a 2.0L DOHC...needs a head gasket replaced right now...running on 3 cyl! :D

Stavesacre21
04-27-2004, 02:56 PM
...running on 3 cyl! :DBet she's a quick one ;)

Yea, i'm finishin my last quarter of college now, so the ole probe is still my daily driver (per say) whilst my Cobra is really only used on a beautiful days or when I feel like makin an impression (hint hint....dates)..:rotf:

Kinda nice to have a rainy/winter driver, even if she's aging quickly with the times...

http://us.f1.yahoofs.com/users/231625ef/bc/My+%2797+Probe/__sr_/Side+Picture.jpg?phLErjABOCwTsfYp

bolt-on
04-30-2004, 08:14 PM
BTW - on a minor note, the manual only talks about the 3.8L and 4.6L SOHC, nothing of our DOHC. Seem odd to any of you?[/QUOTE]


1997 Cobras used the 1997 Mustang Owner Guide. It also came with an Owner Guide Supplement, SVT Mustang Cobra. "This Addendum complements your 1997 Mustang Owner's Guide, and provides information specific to the 1997 Cobra."

Since there is nothing in the Supplement about engine oil, the 1997 Mustang recommendation would apply. "Engine oils with an SAE 5W-30 viscosity are PREFFERED for your vehicle. They provide the best engine performance, fuel economy and engine protection for all climates down to -15 degrees F (-25 degrees C). Synthetic engine oils which are CERTIFIED and of the preferred viscosity may be used in your engine."

I have used Mobil 1 5W-30 and Motorcraft FL-820s filters since purchasing our Cobra. Since we open-track the car 3 or 4 times a year, special attention to oil level (always kept full) and frequent oil changes are the rule.

ausie
05-01-2004, 10:52 AM
:mad: When I picked up my 01 Cobra, it did not have the owners manuals. It took me over 6 months to get them from FORD. I even got the supplemental owners guide for the SVT. I was even supposed to get an SVT certificate of authenticity, but never got that yet. The radio is nice, even better if you have the litterature in how to use some of the hidden functions. I like the dual stereo which came with the car and the radio never gets used much. I am considering adding amplifiers to the dual stereo (SLP loud mouth exhaust) There is nothing more pleasing that listening to that rumbling sound with the windows wide open! Music to my ears. I have gotten to the point where I no longer look at the tachometer when power shifting, just by tone I can tell where the engine RPM is and when to shift, but at least the fuel shut off will save the motor if I go over board a bit. Once or twice I have pushed it that far on just about all shifts and :eek: "am I really going that fast? " :D yep! What makes good sens is to use quality oil and a regular change interval :thumbsup: Regardless of what type of oil you intend to use, always keep a watch on oil levels. The 4.6L has a tendency to use a bit every now and then, which is normal. I prefer synthetics over conventional motor oils since at high RPMs the synthetics do not break down as quick. However, it really does not matter what type of oil you use just as long as you practice a reasonable maintanence schedule. I will not try to prove the lonjevity claims of the synthetic motor oils, even though they are more expensive, in the long run it will cost more money to replace the motor than to change the oil on a regular basis. The point being, the less wear the longer the motor should last.