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View Full Version : Guages & Hood ??!?!?!!!!!


My Cobra
05-03-2004, 08:03 AM
I was wanting to knowif when you start up your car the guages all go to max? When i turn the key to crank up the speed, RPM, gas, OIL everythign goes all the way to the right and touches then comes back to where it should be.

Also My hood will shake on the left side closest to the drivers side i was thinking about getting the hydrolic (whatever they are called) the things that lift the hood up. i see them on e-bay and i like the look of them better than the one rod in the front. Let me know what you guys think about all of this stuff.

sssvtcobra
05-04-2004, 04:01 AM
My car did the max out the gauges thing once as well. But mine did it after it sat for about 4 weeks, while I didn't have a license to drive. But that is the only time it has done that. I've had my cobra now for about 9 months. I figured if it does it again I will take to the dealer. I'm hoping it was just because it sat for awhile.

Just thought I would chime in

ausie
05-04-2004, 06:02 AM
The only time the gauges will max out like that is if the battery was disconnected. That is an indication of wheter or not the computer was reset. There is also a trick you could do to cause that to happen, first insert the key but do not turn it. press and hold the trip button then turn the key to the on position without going to the last step of starting the engine. The gages all max out, then go back to their normal position, the milage section will display other things for each press of the button (rom code dates, error codes (not odbcII), hex values for the rom, speed, rpm, etc....) you can even run the engine and drive it in that state if you want a digital speed or rpm. Once you turn off the ignition, and start up again, the diagnostic mode is deactivated.

My Cobra
05-04-2004, 07:55 AM
Yea maybe it has been disconected or something. I am not too sure. But every now and then it will do this. What would you suggest that i do? there are no SVT dealers within 2 hours of me. So somethign i can try my self. thanks.

ausie
05-05-2004, 06:35 AM
If the car sat for a while, the charge on the battery may have dropped a bit. The next time you start the car, watch the voltmeter or the battery meter. turn the ignition on but do not start it, watch the meter when you start it up, it the needle drops then the battery either needs a charge or the cells in the battery may have low fluids. Yep, the fluids will eventually evaporate out of the battery over time. You could check and see if the sight on the battery is still green (that is if you have a battery sight - round window on top of the battery that indicates if it is still good) The on board EEPROM is an electrically erasable/programmable READ ONLY MEMORY is where all of the run time adjustments are stored by the computer, this is all the data the computer uses and accumulates to adjust for differences in engine performance such as compensation for fuel/air mixture, storage of OBDTC II codes, etc..... Since the memory is powered by the cars battery it looses its memory or data if a reset occurs. It normally takes about 1/2 hour to clear the data, but if the battery is weak it may take less time. One thing to try, just in case there is junk in the EEPROM, would be to disconnect the negative battery connection for at least 1/2 hour. and then reconnect it. Make sure that the battery connections are good and tight (the terminals should not rotate on the battery posts). If the battery terminals are corroded, you should clean them. A little bit of baking soda and some water will do the trick (more than likely the negative terminal is the one that gets crusty) When you reconnect the battery, do not immediately start the car, put the ignition in the on position, the gauges will do what you said they did, and when they return to normal, start it up. Let it idle for about 10 to 15 minutes, then take it for a ride for a minumum of 1/2 hour. At this time, the computer is relearning the motor so some things may be a little off, like fuel/air mixture, etc.... The motor may even ping once or twice while driving since it is re-adjusting the air/fuel ratios. It also re-adjusts the idle too since that is controlled by oscilations of the IAC valve. It may take a few days of driving for the computer to store all the corrective data it needs to keep the engine running within the program tolerances. However, if you suspect that there is a problem with the computer itself, the first thing to do is drive down to a local auto-zone and have them read the codes first before disconnecting the battery. That should not cost anything. It is best to request a print out if there are any pending codes. At least that way you could rule out the computer, if there was a problem it will be reported in the codes OBDCII. Other than that, it may be as simple as a loose battery connection.

My Cobra
05-05-2004, 09:03 AM
ok thanks a lot. I will rub by there and see what they say. I have not changed the battery so it is probley that. I will have to check it out at see. but it will do this every morning after it has sat for the night.

ausie
05-06-2004, 06:15 AM
I am uncertain if my car ever did it, but it may have. Once in a while I notice movement in the gauges but I have not really paid much attention to it if it does happen. Perhaps it is normal when the car sits for a while. I will check my gauges this morning since the car sat for a few days. I did notice that my negative battery clamp was loose (even though the clamp was tightened all the way - from taking it off the battery too many times I suspect so I removed the clamp and wrapped some copper wire strands around the post so that the clamp will not rotate on the post or come loose) I will let you know if I see the gauges go into reset mode.

ausie
05-06-2004, 06:19 AM
as for the second part of the original thread, my entire hood vibrates when driving on the concrete highways here in PA. It sort of gives you an eerie feeling that the hood is about to fly open and kiss the windshield. Since it is made out of fiberglass, it will flex a bit while driving. At times I am considering putting hood pins to make sure it will not pop open while driving.

My Cobra
05-06-2004, 10:21 AM
that is what i was thinking. When i am doing around 110 the whole hood shakes and i think it is going to fly up or tear off. ha ha. Even when i am at a slow 70 the left side will shake a little bit. how much are the pins and how hard are they to put on? Do they help any? I know they look cool. at least to me they do, what do you guys think?

ausie
05-07-2004, 05:37 AM
I don't think they cost much. I asked a mustang owner who had them on his car how difficult they are to install, he said they are easy. I would find it difficult to drill through the hood though. You start by mounting the pins, then followed by either placing tape on them and closing the hood to mark the drill spots or just let the pins mark the hood. Once the hood is marked, you drill the hole from the underside to the top. If your hood is fiberglass you will get alot of dust, and splinters as the drill exits the other side. To reduce the amount of drill bit skating on the hood surface, start with a smaller drill bit to drill a pilot hole which will make things easier and the cut allot cleaner. Change to the next two sizes and re-drill. Stop when you have drilled out the final cut and check for allignment. Then mount the friction plate (metal washer that protects the paint from the pin clip (which also hides the ugly hole.)). A tip, use an old sheet or blanket and cover up the engine bay while you are drilling. That should keep things cleaner. If you are dirlling steel, do the same thing. Start small and work your way to a larger bit. That should reduce the tendency to grab and bend the sheet metal. You will have to file down the burr at the exit side and dab some rust resistant paint or coating prior to installing the friction plate. I would probably put a sealer coat on the fiberglass too to prevent the fiberglass from absorbing moisture. Take your time and it will look good.

I have thought about installing the hood pins, but yet have not done so. It seems like an easy task to do it. Maybe this year I will do it. The only difficult part is the alignment of the pins. I am not sure if they use the bumper locations, if they did that would make things easier.