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Lumpydogs
08-03-2004, 11:54 AM
Any tricks or concerns pulling the starter out of
an '01 Cobra. I know nothing about them. Starter must
go to install headers. I might be in over my head trying
to install headers on jack stands in my garage :scratch:
Any help is much appreciated.

smashedheadcat
08-03-2004, 01:42 PM
Here we go.........

I want to be honest..... this job is a pain in the butt. A big pain. If the starter is a problem, then this job would probably be best left to a professional. But, if you are like me, stuff like that doesn't matter, and we can do it ourselves.

Okay....... I'll give you a quick rundown on what I can think of right off hand on how to get the old headers out, and the new ones in. Now, it depends on what kind of headers you have, as I'm only familiar with MAC long tubes, and BBK long tubes first hand.

Here we go. Start by putting the car up on jack stands. Disconnect the battery, and remove the inlet to the throttle body. Take the air box off, inlet tube, etc. Take it off completely, and set it aside. Now, slide under the car. Remove the H-pipe, toss it aside. I just let the catback dangle. No big deal. If you're worried about it, take it off to, but it's not necessary. Okay, here we go. The starter.... Make sure the battery is disconnected. There is no need to remove the power cable off of the starter solenoid. But there are 2 bolts. One of the bolts go through the bellhousing, and it's the easiest one to get to. The other 2........ are difficult to say the least. You may need to use a bunch of extensions, and come from the front of the car (these 2 bolts come from the front, and thread rearward). Now, just slip the starter down. I use zip ties to support it. But sometimes when I get mad I just throw it down (haven't broke it yet). Okay, my car is a convertible, so there's a brace that gets in the way. You'll need to remove that. Moving along. There are 2 nuts, that hold the transmission mount to the trans crossmember. Remove or loosen them. The trans will stay put, but it will allow some movement. Now, once complete with that...... remove the 21mm nut that holds the engine mount to the K-member (pass side). Now, you'll need a floor jack, and a block of wood or something to set on it. Place a block of wood on the lift plate on the jack. Move the jack under the forward portion of the oil pan (just forward of K-member). And jack up the engine slowly. Very slowly. If it binds up, you'll feel it. Be extremely careful doing this. Basically, what you're trying to do, is just get enough space for you to slide your hand between the passenger side valve cover, and the shock tower. You need to be able to reach the top/rear bolt. All bolts on the top of the header can be reached from the top of the car. The headers are held in by studs with nuts :rotf: . Oops. :D So, the studs will remain in the block. Slide back under the car. You'll see now, when you removed the starter, it gave you access to the two aft, lower studs. These are easy to get to. Now, slide forward of the front passenger side wheel, and look up, you'll see the remaining two studs. Once these things are removed, it'll slip right out. I removed my factory studs with vice grips and replaced them with ARP bolts. This give me more room to slide the long tubes up in there. From here, do what you wish........ I put my pass side header on before messing with the driver's side. The long tubes has to go on from the bottom. Just cuss, push, twist and push some more, and it'll go in. The car needs to be up pretty high so you can twist the header up in there. You may need to jack the engine up further as well. But, it can be done. Once you get it in there...... (most people have trouble with that last step), slide a new gasket in there (i recommend factory ford ones), and bolt it down. There is still room to transfer the EGR stuff over with the header on the car. Now, onto the driver side..... Lower the engine, put the right hand engine mount bolt on (21mm). Leave it loose though. Remove the 21 mm nut on the driver side. Jack the engine back up. Watch the hydrobooster and the valve cover. This will give you access to the oil dipstick tube. Remove that (watch for leaks... mine did a little) Some people complain about the steering shaft, but my headers never interfered with it :dunno: Anyway, this side is the easy side. All top bolts can be reached from the top, all bottom bolts from the bottom. Then......... put her all back together. This is the best I can do for ya. I actually cut my header flange right in the middle. This lets me slip it right over the oil dipstick, so I don't have to remove it anymore. No matter...... not required. :) Remember to transfer all EGR tues over. Some require cutting on the 97....... but i'm not sure on your year car. I hope this helps. It sounds like a ton of work, and I'm not going to lie, it is. I can't say it's worth it anymore, as I've had nothing but problems with my car, causing me to remove and re-install these pigs. But, they do make power, and if you've got plans for big power...... I recommend replacing the clutch, throw out bearing, and pilot bearing while you're in there. Just a thought. I hope this helps somewhat.

Josh

Firme
08-03-2004, 02:25 PM
first you need and old priest and a new priest

:scratch:

eh wait... nevermind, Josh has it coverd

Lumpydogs
08-03-2004, 02:42 PM
Thanks! :D

smashedheadcat
08-03-2004, 04:46 PM
first you need and old priest and a new priest

:scratch:

eh wait... nevermind, Josh has it coverd

:rotf: :rotf:

smashedheadcat
08-03-2004, 04:47 PM
Thanks! :D


Anytime!! :thumbsup:

Lumpydogs
08-08-2004, 03:40 PM
Are there just two bolts holding the starter on????
If so, will I need to pry the starter off. I have
removed the two bolts but the starter is not
coming off. :mad:

Firme
08-08-2004, 03:53 PM
Are there just two bolts holding the starter on????
If so, will I need to pry the starter off. I have
removed the two bolts but the starter is not
coming off. :mad:


I believe it is 3 bolts

Lumpydogs
08-09-2004, 08:14 AM
Yes there were 3 bolts. The third one was a SOB to get a socket on.
Now I have to figure out how to loosen the driver side motor mount :doubt:

smashedheadcat
08-09-2004, 04:34 PM
The driver side engine mount can be had with a straight up 21mm wrench. You can also use a "swivel" and a socket. There is a hole on the outboard side of the K-member that you can slide it through. It's more difficult than the passenger side, but it can be done. I assure you. Also, yes, there are 3 bolts holding on the starter. I recommend only putting 2 of them back in. I've had no problems by doing this.

Josh