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View Full Version : 2001 Need Help!!!!!!!!


WVSNS&
08-19-2004, 12:08 PM
I got the 01 on 17 may 04 (23,161). Got it from the dealer I got my SVO from. Gave me a "fair" deal. Have relocated to Va. Beach. Since I moved I noticed a few problems w/the car. 1. Knock & ping on the hwy especially w/the a/c/ on. 2. Clunking from the tranny area under the car when in neutral @ low speed in a turn.
Went to Beach ford. They did not charge me the $90.00 diagnose fee. Instead the assistant manager told me "everything was within specifications". On the way home, no more clunking, but still the k&p.
Most recent, a friend was behind my car for a few miles and noticed a "rotten egg" smell, a trace of visible tailpipe emission, and very noticeable emission when I accelerated with force.

Just did the carfax(shoulda done b4 getting the car).

I am the 3rd owner.
28 sept 01 a "service facility" did "Vehicle serviced Engine/powertrain computer/module checked Fuel pressure checked".
On 27 june 02 (10,973) it failed emissions. I haven't quite figured out why it was tested, in Va. it is needed every other year.(car was registered in Va. the whole time.
On 4 oct. 02 it passed emissions w/no mileage reported.
Does anyone have an idea what this is?????
Have I missed a recall or tsb?
The car has synthetic fluid, doesn't seem to lose any, and I haven't been over 80mph in it yet.
The car is great, but I am going to have to sell it and drive my SVO instead if I can't get this figured out. Plus my wife is furious...
HELP!!!!!!
John

2KWhiteSnake
08-19-2004, 12:49 PM
I got the 01 on 17 may 04 (23,161). Got it from the dealer I got my SVO from. Gave me a "fair" deal. Have relocated to Va. Beach. Since I moved I noticed a few problems w/the car. 1. Knock & ping on the hwy especially w/the a/c/ on. 2. Clunking from the tranny area under the car when in neutral @ low speed in a turn.
Went to Beach ford. They did not charge me the $90.00 diagnose fee. Instead the assistant manager told me "everything was within specifications". On the way home, no more clunking, but still the k&p.
Most recent, a friend was behind my car for a few miles and noticed a "rotten egg" smell, a trace of visible tailpipe emission, and very noticeable emission when I accelerated with force.

Just did the carfax(shoulda done b4 getting the car).

I am the 3rd owner.
28 sept 01 a "service facility" did "Vehicle serviced Engine/powertrain computer/module checked Fuel pressure checked".
On 27 june 02 (10,973) it failed emissions. I haven't quite figured out why it was tested, in Va. it is needed every other year.(car was registered in Va. the whole time.
On 4 oct. 02 it passed emissions w/no mileage reported.
Does anyone have an idea what this is?????
Have I missed a recall or tsb?
The car has synthetic fluid, doesn't seem to lose any, and I haven't been over 80mph in it yet.
The car is great, but I am going to have to sell it and drive my SVO instead if I can't get this figured out. Plus my wife is furious...
HELP!!!!!!
John

Hey,
I have an 01' also with 26K miles. Mine has had "clunk" in the rear from the day I drove it off the lot. I also have had throwout bearing noise since day one also. I'm just going to wait for the clutch to go before I replace it all. You might hear a "thud" up under the car sometimes. It's "normal" for mine and many others.

Anyway, on the ping issue. I'm sure you are probably using 93 octane fuel, which is a must or mine will ping. If you are using the 93, then maybe try another brand if you seemed to just notice the pinging. You might have gotten some bad fuel. I also recall some people with 01's having gotten an upgraded ECU flash at their dealership to get rid of pinging. It would just depend on what flash you have. There are 2 different flashes for the 01 computers. I actually have what some refer to as the "bad" flash, but I don't have any pinging, so I haven't acted on it, but my warranty is out anyway so it wouldn't matter. I've heard of some owners having major problems when the aren't "hard" on their car. Sometimes it just needs some good cleaning of the system on a long stretch of road. About once a week I floor mine through 1st, 2nd, and part of 3rd to keep it cleaned out. If I don't do this, when I get on it a bit I'll notice some visible emissions.

If you have any doubt about it, head to your nearest dyno one afternoon and have them do 2 quick pulls with it. You'll definitely see what it's doing on the dyno if they have have air/fuel monitoring, etc. I've seen pinging dyno's and you immediately see that on printout.

I did notice you said you haven't had it over 80 MPH yet........run that thing up to (I won't say how fast). You're babying it when it wants to be romped. Get on it hard for about 15 minutes (in a safe place). I mean full throttle and see if that helps. The good thing is you AREN'T burning oil, which is a plus. Mine burns about 1/2 quart of synthetic every 5K miles which is about normal.

I know this probably doesn't help much, but best of luck with it. Keep us posted.

Craig

ausie
08-21-2004, 09:55 AM
wvsns&, (this one is a bit on the long side, I hope this helps you...)

I too have an 01 Cobra which I bought in 2001 October. Since I am the original owner of the vehicle, I can tell you when the pinging started since this is a common thing with the 01's. Typically around 10k to 12k is when the pinging begins to become an issue with performance. If you have the literature or brochures for that year (I have two of them for nestalgic purpose) they list the compression at 9.8:1. This is incorrect by all means it is actually 10:1 and possible a little more than that. Ford does not really know how to address the issue of the pinging correctly. Since they only offered to retard the timming by reflashing the chip (which may result in loss of about 10-20Hp). That will not correct the pinging since knock and ping are a case of pre-ignition without the spark occuring. The cause of the ping is CARBON buildup in the combustion chamber and over time the compression begins to get higher.

The carbon deposits create hot spots on the pistons, plugs, as well as the valves. To detect if your cobra has carbon deposits, pull one of the plugs and if it is flat black you have carbon. I used to have serious issues with my car and even experienced detonation on several occasions under hard acceleration. According to Kenne Bell, the 01 cobras do have knock sensors (I have yet to locate any, not even sure what they look like) but somehow I believe this be true since every time the car detonated it shut down completely.

CARBON REMOVAL 101, There are several things you can do to reduce and or remove carbon deposits without removing the heads. Although taking off the heads and cleaning the pistons and lapping the valves may be the best, it would be cost effective to start with a less aggressive approach.

Step one, get some B-12 chemtool made by Berryman. It comes in two forms (spray can, and bottle) you will need both. You should also plan on changing the oil after doing this. You will also need some isopropal alchohol and an empty spray bottle that can spray a fine mist. It is best to start with an empty tank of gas, put half of the bottle contents of the B-12 chemtool in the fuel tank and fill it up with gas. When you get home, let the car sit until the engine cools down completely (over night is best).

Step 2. Add about 4 ounces of the remaining B-12 chemtool into the engine oil. (do not add this to the engine if it is warm because it has a very low boiling temperature). You will need an 8mm socket to remove the plastic intake tube from the throttle body. Use the spray can to clean the throttle plate with the engine off and let it soak a bit, you should place a terry cloth towel under the throttle body to catch any drips form the spray. You may also use it to wipe off the dirt from the throttle body.

Step 3. Start the engine and let it idle, This is the tricky part. Fill up the empty spray bottle with water 3/4 full and add some isopropal alcohol to the water. First spary some B-12 into the throttle plate you will have to adjust the throttle while doing this. Do not over do it, just a few seconds of spray with a little bit of throttle and let the idle return to normal. The next step will be to spray the water/alcohol mixture into the throttle plate in the same manner. Make sure that the spray comes out in a fine mist. Alternate between the B-12 and water mixture. The fan will kick in since the engine will be up to temperature. The trick is to steam clean the carbon out of the motor. This should take about 1/2 hour or so.

Step 4, Let it cool down and then change the oil. During the oil change, you may want to inspect the spark plugs again to see if there is any change.

Option 1:
You may want to clean the MAF as well. If it is dirty it will cause you to run lean in low RPM.

Option 2:
Replace the fuel filter. They are only good up to 16k miles.

Option 3:
Istalling a good cat-back exhaust should reduce back pressure which will allow the fuel to burn more completely. This will also reduce the carbon build up within the combustion chamber. I have not had any carbon deposits on my spark plugs after doing this. I have not had any pinging either since the cat-back was installed, but then again the exhaust is much louder than the stock so I probably will not hear it.

ausie
08-21-2004, 10:07 AM
As for driving: I am always hard on it and never babied it unless driving through a timmed zone or when passing those vehicles with the colored light bars on top of them. In other words, the way I drive, I should not have any carbon in the motor, unfortunately that was not the case.

Some more advise, let the motor warm up a few minutes before driving, this will reduce the amount of blow-by oil passing the piston when driving under load. Since the pistons are made from an aluminum alloy it is best to allow them to expand when starting off with a cold engine. Oil passing the rings or getting sucked into the intake throught the PCV may lead to carbon build up too.

ausie
08-22-2004, 10:45 AM
Another issue with the 01 cobra, the original EGR valve seems to malfunction or quits working properlyl. The one in my cobra got stuck closed at about 20k miles. I ran the O2 sensor test with my scan tool and could not get any passing results. Since I replaced the EGR valve (not cheap) every thing was up to spec and it passed all the run tests. The OBDII did not throw any codes on the EGR but I am certain I would have failed an emissions test if I did not replace the EGR valve.

Somehow I think (in my opinion) the fuel curve is a bit on the poor side. At times I think it is lagging in response and it leans out when shifting gears. However, carbon deposits are a result of having too rich a mixture:doubt: If it was running rich then it should not detonate or ping. More or less the ping is due to lower octane fuel or not enough EGR flow.