View Full Version : spark plug problem (bad)

08-28-2004, 11:10 PM
hey every one,
my 99 snake has a big problem, i just did a tune up for the first time since i got the car and well the 8th bank spark plug would not come out. i tried every socket that i knew of from a 5/8 to a 14 mm turns out the bottom of the plug is rounded off and my car has 50,000 miles on it and yes they were the o.e.m plugs from the factory. well i called around and took it to ford the said $3000 to pull the heads of to get at it. :mad: well i don't have that type of money any 1 got any ideas to do it quick and cheap thanx you very much:thumbsup:

08-29-2004, 10:12 AM
It sounds like they forgot to put anti-sieze on the plug. If they have to remove one head, they may as well do the other side too and have the valves cleaned and polished. However, take a look at some too sites, they may have a socket that will remove rounded spark plugs. They do make tools for removing rounded bolts, perhaps there is a tool that will work on the plugs as well. I would look into that first. Also, it is possible that when the plug is removed it will take the threads with it. I have a feeling for a cost of $3000.00 sounds like a new head to me (with labor included). You may be better off taking the car to a good mustang speed shop than having ford do the work. The last time I had both heads off of my explorer (under warrenty) they screwed the motor up by not replacing the head gaskets and I blew the motor shortly thereafter (when the extended warranty ran out). To have the motor replaced cost me $4000.00.

In my opinion, save up some money and either get better heads and replace the pistons and connecting rods at the same time.

Can the car be driven if you put all the other plugs back in? If you did not crack the insulator on the stuck plug, I would probably hold off the repair until you have the cash flow for motor upgrades. (just a suggestion)

08-30-2004, 01:48 PM
I don't know if this would work or not, but you might try one of those sockets that have all the metal pins that conform to whatever shape. I think Sears sold them.

08-30-2004, 04:05 PM
ya i tried that it doesn't fit down the hole and wont go all the way down the spark plug and just to tell you the $3000.00 does not include new heads just the labor and gaskets to put it back togather

09-27-2004, 06:50 PM
Food for thought. I was looking at polished valve covers at the SHM (sean hyland motorsports) then it dawned on me. The spark plug mounts in the head which is centered between the 4 valves (I was also looking at some of the heads too). Since the valve cover has deep sockets for the plugs you could probably remove the valve cover on the side the plug is stuck in. That should give you some room to get hold of the plug , right? Any body have any thoughts on this one?

09-27-2004, 06:59 PM
what ever you do... BE CAREFUL of any metal shaving coming off the rounded plug. You don't want those in your cylinder if the plug comes out.

I would call a few shops around town and see if there any mechanics that have any tricks to get them out. Some of those guys can pop off a rounded bolt in seconds.

I did have a completely INSANE idea. Don't do this unless you are :crazy:
- you know how they have those spark plug sockets with a swivel handle on them, all one piece, so you can remove the plug without needing a rachet. Well, you can always get one of those and put some liquid cement or JBWeld IN it and put it on the plug. Let it cure and become ONE with the plug and then unscrew that bad boy out. You can prolly do that with a spark plug socket that you don't mind throwing away also. You just got to make sure its not all rubber on the contact/bonding points. The trick would be that what ever you use does not seep out and touch the valve cover and bond to it. :dunno: its a crazy thought.

but, as I stated before, I would make sure you blow out ALL the metal particles that have fallen around the plug with some air. Otherwise they will fall into the engine when the plug is taken out with the heads still on.

09-27-2004, 07:34 PM
that is a good point there Fireme! I was not thinking about the metal shavings. You could probably vaccum some out, or may be get some with a magnetic stick. Even forced air may not do it completely. Has anybody ever removed a valve cover off one of these motors? I was just wondering if there was still a well around the plug after taking the cover off. It was just a thought. Maybe the safest approach would be to remove the head so that debris does not make its way into the cylinder or onto the valve/cam assembly. That would be a big oops. :rolleyes:

09-27-2004, 10:44 PM
..... Has anybody ever removed a valve cover off one of these motors? I was just wondering if there was still a well around the plug after taking the cover off.

here is a good pic of the covers off...

10-19-2004, 02:26 PM
here is a good pic of the covers off...
Based on that picture, it's not worth removing the valve cover to access the sparkplug because the well that the plug is in is full-depth.

Having not written anything in about three weeks, I'd say the originator hit the road with (7) new plugs and (1) original.

Shows to go ya just how quickly a relatively simple task can quickly go all wrong!

Despite the apparent lack of follow-up indicating a solution gotten from some other source, my suggestion would have been (heck, still is) to get the engine up to operating temperature (so that everything has expanded nicely) and then spray the plug as directly as possible with one of those icy cold sprays used to help detect temperature sensitive electronic components. Make up a cardboard or plastic tube to just fit the body of the plug (form it around an extracted plug), slide it down on the offending plug, and give it a couple of blasts of spray. This would rapidly cool and shrink the metalic body of the plug while barely phasing the rather large heatsink of the head. The rapid shrinkage should practically break the threads loose all by itself. I also suggest a new, well-fitting 6-point sparkplug socket to do the final extraction as soon as possible after applying the spray. :cool: