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View Full Version : bbk cold air intake and pro 87mm mass


tazzracing1
09-22-2004, 07:43 PM
I would like to know if I should purchase these items. My car was running a little rich when I purchased it I then upgraded to a O/R X-Pipe and the car was running really rich. My thermostat housing cracked and I found out the former owner had installed a 180 degree, I installed a 188 degree and now it is back to runnung a little rich. I want to know if these are the route to go or is there another solution? I also want a bit more power.
Thank You for all the help with my questions.:) :burnout:

tcrews
09-22-2004, 11:22 PM
You really don't need an 87mm MAF, and the BBK CAI isn't that good (best looking, suffers greatest heatsoak) CAI for our cars. The JLT CAI or RAI is currently the best one available from multiple dyno-testing comparisons. Depending on the price of the 87mm MAF I'd just get the ProM 80mm Maf (about $280) calibrated for your stock 24# injectors. NA MAF meters do tend to lean the car out a little (that's where there power gaine comes from) so that may help your overly rich condition.

tazzracing1
09-22-2004, 11:27 PM
Tom,

Thank You once again. I found both brand new for 200.00 set up for my car the way it sets. I have alot to learn about this Cobra and this is the best place I found everyone here is Great.:)

ausie
09-23-2004, 07:11 AM
Take it from me, do not use the BBK intake. Sure it looks nice but don't look too close. For one, the upper pipe hits the strut tower under load. The lower pipe places a bend in front of the MAF which will cause most of the air to bypass the meter probe (makes no difference if the screen is in place or not). A better set up is either put the MAF in the fender with the filter or one that has a straight line up. If you never heard your cobra ping, you will with a BBK. Tcrews is correct in that the BBK really soaks up heat. It should be classified as a HAI instead of a CAI. The only purpose for a CAI is to draw outside air into the intake rather than engine heated air from the engine bay.
Regardless in the upper pipe soaks heat, it will not influence the moving air temperature as much as you think it would. Perhaps having the meter rotated 90 degrees towards the fender would have inproved the performance of the BBK, but there was no room to do that.

I find it hard to believe (just my opinion, I could be wrong though) that a 180F stat caused the housing to crack unless the car had only water or a weak mix in the cooling system and was left out in the winter to freeze. It may tend to run rich slightly until operating temps are reached. The coolant will still get up to 220F regarless of what stat you use. Even with the 160F stat will allow temps to reach the 220F unless the fan kicks in at a lower temperature.

From what I can recall, the stock MAF will support up to 400Hp and after that it will begin to lean out. I am tempted to install some more stuff in the engine bay, but I will wait for the one that operates off of the belt system.
CAI's may help a little, but they will not bring in more air unless you install a cast aluminum lung and force it to breathe. I have come across many who thought that the CAI will increase air flow or that it is less restrictive. Bends do not cause restrictions, only turbulance. If you can concieve of the fluid path of the airstream, it should pass over or throught the MAF sensor. Remember one thing, the air flow will take the shortest path to the throttle body. In other words, as in the case with the stock intake on the 99 and 01 cobra, the sharp bend in the upper pipe after the MAF is intended to draw air throught the MAF sensor tube. If you get a set up that has a straight pipe, you may need a different MAF housing that does not have the center air tube. However, there may be issues if you remove that from the sensor since it functions by sensing current through a hot wire. Air will cool down the wire causing more current flow and less air movement reduces the current flow throught the wire. With that in mind, the amount of current for a given air flow throught the MAF is calibrated. So many amps per volume of air movement. The change in current in relationship to volume of air is mapped out in the program of the ECU so that a table is formed to convert the measurement into amount of air introduced into the intake so that the fuel can be injected to provide the approprate fuel/air mixture. When you make changes to the MAF you also need to update the current to air curve or data table in the ECU program. However, if you modify the MAF or replace it you may trick the ECU in allowing to lean out the mixture. The problem may arise if it gets too lean when it should not be. If you change the MAF you should have the fuel/air ratio tuned to avoid detonation.

Once again I have exceeded what I wanted to write down. Blame it on the Coffee.

Levi
09-23-2004, 09:28 AM
suffers greatest heatsoak.


This is why I removed my bbk unit.

tazzracing1
09-23-2004, 02:27 PM
The housing was cracked do to the former owner over tightening the housing bolts which in turn caused a stress fracture. I will take take the advice and not purchase these items.Thank You again everyone who helped answer my questions.

ausie
09-24-2004, 07:02 AM
At least you have fixed the cracked housing. As for the CAI, I do recall Steeda and MAC have similar designs. C&L is also another. There are others out there too. Here are some resources that may offer reviews on CAI components as well as other parts www.stangnet.com (http://www.stangnet.com) , www.mustangworld.com (http://www.mustangworld.com) I was considering the Steeda or MAC but since I will be replacing the stock intake plenum with a displacement supercharger I will probably stick with the original plastic components that seem to work just fine.