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View Full Version : modular disappointment - I think


ausie
09-26-2004, 04:00 PM
I am beginning to give up and swap the motor.... unless there is a solution to my dilema.

I fixed the overflow issue, but I checked the coolant level since it dropped a little bit after changing it. Ah to my surprise I found another balled up gray greasy floater in the coolant again. My suspicions may be accurate that I may indeed have a blown head gasket or worse.

Now I have that sticky run-away idle that seams to climb up to 3500 RPM and it will stick at 3000 RPM only when the car is moving. It will not do it in the garage. It is also starting to ping like hell (again). It could be bad gas, but I would doubt that to cause run-away idle. It could be a bad temperature sending unit, unfortunately every thing checks out fine, except for the idle. No codes are comming up either. I may replace the throttle body if I knew for certain that was the cause. Any Idea on a fix would be appreciated.

Lumpydogs
09-26-2004, 07:39 PM
sorry to hear you are having all those continued problems. I hope that
I don't run into them in my '01 Mod Motor. How many miles does
that motor have on it?

casey99COBRA
09-27-2004, 12:39 AM
sorry to hear ausie. i really hate having to replace things... :( I do have a question for you though. Do the rpm's happen to come down after coming to a complete stop when driving?

ausie
09-27-2004, 06:56 AM
My 01 Cobra has 31,000 miles on it. As for the idle, it will stick in the range of 2000 to 3000 RPM while driving and stay there when I come to a stop (when out of gear). At times it will climb up to 3500 when sitting still but I have to be moving first. Sometimes I can bleed off vaccum by pushing hard on the brakes and that will take the RPM down. If I punch the throttle it will return to normal. I thought I was beginning to understand this thing, but at times it becomes puzzling. It could very well be an erratic IAC valve. The only thing I have yet to replace (besides the complete engine) is the TPS and Throttle body.

I decided to dump the EPROM to see if that would cure the issues. That is one thing I have not done after changing the coolant and thermostat. I also put some spray lube on the throttle plate. The problems of the idle could be from bad gas (too low an octane) which would explain the pinging issue. I also cleaned the MAF sensor since I had this problem before when using a high flow air filter.

It never fails, once it runs like a clock then all of a sudden it needs be wound up again. Here is a strange thing, While attempting to do the basic diagnostic, I still had the engine running when I pulled into the garage in hopes to hang the throttle again, I unplugged the IAC. I expected the RPM to increase but it did the opposite (dropped to 500RPM) then plugged it back in and increased up to 1500 RPM. Pulled it out again and it dropped so low it stalled. I could opt to put the old IAC back on but I do not think this will solve the issues. One reason why I dumped the EPROM memory. That sort of cured the problem for the time being.

One question remains, do the 99 and 01's have secondary plates on the intake port in the heads similar to the older mod motors? If they do it would explain alot. For some reason or another I do not think they do.

ausie
09-27-2004, 07:21 AM
I know the idle issue was covered on another topic. I may indeed replace the throttle body to see if that cures the problems.

The main issue I have is with the floaters in the coolant. Could it be engine oil? It seams to be clumped together and feels like a soft piece of soap. The last time I pulled the plugs, they were coated with a brown rusty looking film. That could also be from fuel additives since my cobra likes to ping without it from time to time. I have not checked the new plugs since I put them in. I have had another vehicle with a head gasket leak before and wound up with the same clumps in the coolant, but the plugs looked like new and the coolant would not last long in the radiator.

It would be best to have the coolant analyzed for hydrocarbons. I just do not know where to get that done.

tcrews
09-27-2004, 07:59 AM
The '99 and up Cobras do not have the secondaries like you thought so that couldn't be it :)

As for blowing a headgasket.....that is so rare in these cars it's almost completely (I mean completely) unheard of. Even high boosted cars (28+ psi) don't blow headgaskets, they blow pistons/rods first.

Can you smell coolant in your oil? Is your oil milky? If you are still overheating have you replaced the waterpump?

I'm not a mechanic so I can really only make guesses.....might be time to take the car to a shop and have them check it out.

ausie
09-27-2004, 07:15 PM
I am not overheating, just the cap and plastic reserve tank has issues holding its shape when the operating temperatures reach 300F :rotf: (It just sounded funny so I left it as is). Actually the issue with the coolant is that it overflows mainly after the motor is turned off (which may have been due to air in the cooling system). Also the cap (after market or stock) does not seem to hold pressure for too long (the resivior may be faulty).

As for the other issue, having the run-away idle, may also be the cause for the pinging after the motor heats up is the throttle body may be the cause. I did notice since last year the throttle body was a different color than it was stock. I think it was changed on me when I had it at the ford dealer last year for inspection. I just never took notice as much as I should have. My suspicions may be accurate because the threads on the back side of the throttle stop screw were boogered up by me when I was trying to figure out why the engine kept stalling when I had the CAI on the car. I looked at it yesterday and found that the threads look like they were never touched. I doubt that dealership replaced the screw. Unfortunately I cannot prove it and it is probably too late to do anything about it.

It is possible it may have been changed without consent, it is not the first time that has happened to me but with another vehicle.

Looks like a new TB will be ordered by as early as next week. I will take a look at accufab or possibly others (as soon as I discover who they are). I am not fond of BBK for the time being. Any recommendations would be helpful.

tcrews
09-27-2004, 09:13 PM
Looks like a new TB will be ordered by as early as next week. I will take a look at accufab or possibly others (as soon as I discover who they are). I am not fond of BBK for the time being. Any recommendations would be helpful. Either the Accufab if going aftermarket or stock. The BBK unit is garbage and I haven't heard much good of the SVO single blade one either. I've heard good things about the accufab and I know John Mihovetz and trust that he makes a good product.

ausie
09-28-2004, 07:04 AM
Thanks alot everyone.

It looks like accufab will be it. I took another close inspection of the throttle body (I took it off this time). It is the original (I feel like an idiot, oh well).
I also noticed that one of the blades does not close completely. I guess over time things tend to wear out. Considering how many times it has been driven WOT. I could be wrong on this. The engine run perfectly when it is cold even after it warms up a bit. The problems do not surface until I start the car after I have driven it and it is still warm.

xanavisilvia
09-30-2004, 03:43 AM
Hi ausie,
I was wondering if you tried and look for a vacuum leak for the idle issue?
Or possibly there is a small leak in the intake tube also. Bad intake manifold gasket? And if one of the blade on the TB doesn't close all the way, that will cause the idle problem. I had the idle issue because I cleaned the TB and wiped the coating away from the backside of the blades. This caused a gap between the blade and the bore. This led to more air to enter the engine and causing the sticking idle. I don't know if this helps or not but good luck to you.

ausie
10-01-2004, 06:54 AM
I did not have much of an idle issue unless I changed something on the intake such as high flow air filter or when I had the BBK CAI on it. I believe the issue is a sticking IAC valve. I should put the old one back on and see what happens. I also attempted to use a breather filter on the passenger side with a plug on the inlet tube. That made it worse which may indicate the excess air may be comming in through a stuck PCV valve. It seems that as long as all of the air entering the intake is metered by the MAF everything works out fine. I may have to put the paper filter element back in.

It may be probable I have an vaccum leak or a seal leak on the upper plenum section but some how I don't believe so since I had several months of trouble free performance. Everything was fine up until after having the emissions test conducted. It does not seem to idle high or stick if I first start the car while it is cold even after it warms up it does not occur. Only when starting up after the vehicle was driven for 20 minutes or more does it act up.

Since I took off the throttle body for a detailed inspection, I noticed a slight gap at the bottm which was wider on one side than the other. I almost thought I fixed it after putting the TB back on and took a test drive. It was not until the following day the idle climed up again. It would ping like hell while driving too. I now have fresh gas in the tank (stuff I normally get) and it seems that things are returning to normal. I did perform a diagnostic with the scan tool and found that the ERG system failed or was not functioning. Strangely enough after re-fueling and driving 60 miles the EGR system passed the test. It it occurs again, I will plug the scanner in and check it out to see if it failed. I find it hard to believe that it could be the fuel. I do recall having this issue once before after fueling at the same place but it was not as much of an issue as it became recently.

I am planning on replacing the TB with an accufab unit (with the single oval plate) but I will wait until I install the Kenne Bell supercharger. I would rather do it all at once. I am still tying to figure out where to get it though. I could get that from SHM but they only cary the GT version or the 03.

I am contemplating on trading the 01 in for an 04, at least my wheels and cat back will fit that. At least the re-sale value is higher that what I owe on it. One reason I have yet to purchase a supercharger is that I am still contemplating on trading the car in. Some how I have yet to convince myself otherwise. Should I do it? what do you think? I have some cash flow that will allow it, but not really sure if I should.

casey99COBRA
10-01-2004, 09:06 AM
keep your 01 and give me the 04. k? thx. :rotf::bump:

xanavisilvia
10-03-2004, 04:21 AM
I did not have much of an idle issue unless I changed something on the intake such as high flow air filter or when I had the BBK CAI on it. I believe the issue is a sticking IAC valve. I should put the old one back on and see what happens. I also attempted to use a breather filter on the passenger side with a plug on the inlet tube. That made it worse which may indicate the excess air may be comming in through a stuck PCV valve. It seems that as long as all of the air entering the intake is metered by the MAF everything works out fine. I may have to put the paper filter element back in.

It may be probable I have an vaccum leak or a seal leak on the upper plenum section but some how I don't believe so since I had several months of trouble free performance. Everything was fine up until after having the emissions test conducted. It does not seem to idle high or stick if I first start the car while it is cold even after it warms up it does not occur. Only when starting up after the vehicle was driven for 20 minutes or more does it act up.

Since I took off the throttle body for a detailed inspection, I noticed a slight gap at the bottm which was wider on one side than the other. I almost thought I fixed it after putting the TB back on and took a test drive. It was not until the following day the idle climed up again. It would ping like hell while driving too. I now have fresh gas in the tank (stuff I normally get) and it seems that things are returning to normal. I did perform a diagnostic with the scan tool and found that the ERG system failed or was not functioning. Strangely enough after re-fueling and driving 60 miles the EGR system passed the test. It it occurs again, I will plug the scanner in and check it out to see if it failed. I find it hard to believe that it could be the fuel. I do recall having this issue once before after fueling at the same place but it was not as much of an issue as it became recently.

I am planning on replacing the TB with an accufab unit (with the single oval plate) but I will wait until I install the Kenne Bell supercharger. I would rather do it all at once. I am still tying to figure out where to get it though. I could get that from SHM but they only cary the GT version or the 03.

I am contemplating on trading the 01 in for an 04, at least my wheels and cat back will fit that. At least the re-sale value is higher that what I owe on it. One reason I have yet to purchase a supercharger is that I am still contemplating on trading the car in. Some how I have yet to convince myself otherwise. Should I do it? what do you think? I have some cash flow that will allow it, but not really sure if I should.

I think you should trade it in for an 04 instead of supercharging your 01. This way you don't have to worry about forging your bottom end and so on. And if you want more power, there are lots of inexpensive mods you can do to gain lots of horsepower. This is just my opinion. Either way you will have a very fast Cobra.

ausie
10-03-2004, 07:40 AM
Some how I think I would have much of the same issues with the 04 as I do with the 01. It turns out everything returned to normal after burning off the gas in the tank. This is not the first time I experienced the idle issue, it happend once before when I filled up with the same brand of fuel. I just never put the two together. It has not re-occured yet since re-fuelling. It makes me wonder if my throttle plate was always in that condition. Another thing was the PCV valve end coupling (plastic 90 degree elbow) seemed very loose. Since I had some heater hose and some fuel line left over from a repair, I decided to re-route the PCV line and breather line (basically swaped them) and bingo, the motor ran better than it ever did. I found a new trick (to me anyway) on how to make your own PCV catch can by using an in-line moisture trap used with air compressors. I always suspected oil being transferred into the intake but not realized exactly how much oil was being taken in. I bought two (3 ft) secions of 3/8 stainless steel braided fuel line that had the decorative screw clamps, I already had the 1/2 inch stainless steel heater hose (4ft). With the PCV on the passenger side and the breather line on the dirvers side seemed to do the job. One reason why I did this is because I had no room for the filter except on the AC condensor which required a different routing. After 60 miles of a test drive, I discovered about a teaspoon of oil trapped in the filter cup. That would explain the carbon deposits and oil consumption. I did try capping off the PCV port an breather port on the intake and used breather filters, but the strong smell of hot motor oil just did not sit well.

SNAKEYE
10-19-2004, 10:17 AM
Some how I think I would have much of the same issues with the 04 as I do with the 01. It turns out everything returned to normal after burning off the gas in the tank. This is not the first time I experienced the idle issue, it happend once before when I filled up with the same brand of fuel. I just never put the two together. It has not re-occured yet since re-fuelling. It makes me wonder if my throttle plate was always in that condition. Another thing was the PCV valve end coupling (plastic 90 degree elbow) seemed very loose. Since I had some heater hose and some fuel line left over from a repair, I decided to re-route the PCV line and breather line (basically swaped them) and bingo, the motor ran better than it ever did. I found a new trick (to me anyway) on how to make your own PCV catch can by using an in-line moisture trap used with air compressors. I always suspected oil being transferred into the intake but not realized exactly how much oil was being taken in. I bought two (3 ft) secions of 3/8 stainless steel braided fuel line that had the decorative screw clamps, I already had the 1/2 inch stainless steel heater hose (4ft). With the PCV on the passenger side and the breather line on the dirvers side seemed to do the job. One reason why I did this is because I had no room for the filter except on the AC condensor which required a different routing. After 60 miles of a test drive, I discovered about a teaspoon of oil trapped in the filter cup. That would explain the carbon deposits and oil consumption. I did try capping off the PCV port an breather port on the intake and used breather filters, but the strong smell of hot motor oil just did not sit well.
It may be a bit early for an '01, but have you checked the EGR valve (if so equipped, I don't know)for any problems? Even a relatively newer one could be defective.
Sounds to me like it is sticking in the open position, which holds the idle up. It may mess up the A/F mixture too and be the reason for the pinging.

ausie
10-20-2004, 06:56 AM
I discovered the PCV elbow was the cause which was allowing for unmetered air to enter the intake. That was all corrected with new lines and a single piece PCV along with an oil separator/canister on the PCV line. I have seen the exact same thing on the Steeda web site after I completed the mod on the 01.