PDA

View Full Version : make me go faster!


casey99COBRA
12-09-2004, 05:12 AM
I'm wanting to get ready for the track this spring. I want other peoples suggestions on things. Let me go over the few things that are in the vehicle now before we start the suggestions. This is what i'm running:
99 Cobra , Magnaflow cat back, custom intake w/ k&n filter(not cai).
What i have in the mail as of right now: SLP "LoudMouth" catback(replacing maganflows) and H&R sport springs.
I'll be ordering a mid pipe as soon as i decide what i want to put with the loudmouth (researching still).
And their is a few things that i plan on doing here shortly to the vehicle (speed wise) which would be a nitrous kit, short throw shifter, L/T's and drag radials.
But enough with that, lets get to the others things that are going to improve my quarter mile time (which i have no idea is) can anyone make an approx?
I can't afford a supercharger, so lets not even mention that.
Things i had in mind: Gears, but which ones? Same goes with pulley's. CAI, Which one ? And is it really worth it ?
what else is there i can do to my car ? Is it possible to get the car running high 11's, low 12's without supercharging it (or any huge expensive upgrade)?

smashedheadcat
12-09-2004, 11:45 AM
It's been my exprience that most of your ET is going to come in the first 330ft of the quarter. So, with that being said, you'll need to address traction. But first, you'll need to address the wheel hop issues that go along with the 99 cobras. A mid pipe is going to give you more gains than the loudmouth exhaust will, so I'd definately address that. But, along with that, I'd recommend a set of long tube headers. These also will increase power. Under drive pullies are good, as well. The cold air kit i'd go with would be this...... JLT true cold air RAI. Use this with a big mouth filter. I'd keep the same MAF, as you won't see gains from switching. A custom tune via SCT will get you in the 300-315 rwhp range. This is plenty to get you into the 12's. Deep into the 12's. Now, multiply that torque with a set of 4.56 gears. They are steep, but if you ever want a shot at the 11's without a poweradder (no nitrous, blower, turbo) this is the gear for you. Switching to a solid axle will help out tremendously, but it is pricey. But, it saves over 100 lbs. A set of springs will help a lot too, and not the H&R super sports. If money was no object, go with a tubular K-member with coil overs. Speak with the tech and get yourself a drag race friendly spring rate. If that's not in the cards, and you stay with the IRS, keep your H&R springs in the back, and get yourself a set of 4 cyl fox body front springs. This will keep the car lowered, but have a much softer rate to help weight transfer. Next up is a set of shocks/struts. Lakewoods are great, cheap, but serve one purpose (straight line). A set of adjustable shocks and struts would allow you to fine tune your suspension to get out of the hole, and then fly through the turns on the way home. The easiest way to go 12's would be this. Keep what you've got, toss some slicks on the rear of that thing, toss on a 125 shot of nitrous, and spend a ton of time on the dyno to get your tune spot on. A set of 4.30's would finish the package.

casey99COBRA
12-10-2004, 05:18 AM
what do you mean by the 4.56 gears being "steep"? Why do you suggest rai over the cai ? What brand of gears / pulleys do you recommend ? do i risk anything adding the gears and pulleys?

smashedheadcat
12-10-2004, 09:52 PM
what do you mean by the 4.73 gears being "steep"? Why do you suggest rai over the cai ? What brand of gears / pulleys do you recommend ? do i risk anything adding the gears and pulleys?

A 4.56 gear will keep your rpms high. (around 4650 rpms at 70 mph in 4th gear. They are still a daily driver friendly gear, but your rpms will be up on freeway cruising. I haven't seen any problems with people doing this. The reason I suggest the RAI over the CAI is kind of a personal preference. The install is much simpler, and as long as the car is moving, the inlet temps will be very close to that of a CAI. At the track, just simply pull out the passenger side headlight, and you'll have all the cold air you need blasting that filter. For underdrive pullies, go with the steedas. These are not a "piggyback" style pulley, they show good gains, and I've never heard anything bad about them. For cooling..... your water pump pulley was sized to keep the car cool during hot days sitting in traffic. The steeda pullies take this into account, but certainly do reduce water flow (yet, the car will not overheat). Back to the gears and pricing. With an IRS, it'll probably be around $250-300 for labor, and unfortunately, gear prices have risen dramatically in the past few months. Shopping around will get you a set of gears to your door for around $150-200. I have the Ford racing gears, but OEM and richmond gears will be just fine. I got my gears for $135 to my door with a basic install kit. Since then, prices have gone up though. I had my entire rear built (welded axle tubes, moser 31 spline axles, eaton posi, all new bearings, c-clip eliminators, gears, speed cal, T/A diff girdle, Moroso drag studs and welded torque boxes) parts and labor for $2200. Granted, this is a solid axle, but it held 10 consecutive 11 second passes on Et streets with zero problems. If you have any more questions, please ask, and I'll do what I can. Also, one last thing. I was fortunate enough to drive my good friend Ken Burt's '01 cobra down the track. I think his car is very similar to what your plans are with yours. His website lists every mod, with a dyno sheet to show the gains. He's got various timeslips posted and plenty of dyno sheets. Also a couple of videos. His car was an absolute pleasure to drive and definately fast. The car ran like it came from the factory, yet packed a mean punch. I would have purchased this car if the money was there at the time he sold it. Please check out his website, read his expiriences, and his thoughts on the parts he installed. http://www.burtsonline.net/ken/mustangs.htm

Josh

sssvtcobra
12-11-2004, 12:49 PM
Casey,

Josh is a great person to take advice from. I have gotten advice from him before. You can see what I have for mod's in my sig. But I can honestly say that with each mod except for maybe the cai, I have felt a sotp's feel, and each mod was done seperately for that reason. The cai did help with throttle response though. I just didn't "feel" like my car has more power. If you are going to do the t/a I would suggest that you start out at 12* and go from there. I have mine set at 14* and have no driveability issues as of yet. You can always run more timing if you put 1 colder range of plug in. But if your going to do that I suggest that you also have access to a dyno. I don't have gears as of yet, but hopefully soon.

Steeda pullies...$160.00
Steeda T/A......$140.00
Mac CAI..........$140.00
Mac P/C..........$240.00
Bassani C/B.....$750.00

Hope that helps. That is a price list of what I paid for my stuff.

Jeff

casey99COBRA
12-12-2004, 01:45 AM
hey josh, this is my intake setup now, i don't know what the hell it is, what are your thoughts on it ?
http://www.ragesystems.net/svt/engine/engine02.jpg

smashedheadcat
12-12-2004, 09:26 AM
I've seen it before, but I don't know who makes it. I'd stick with that personally, and take the head light out at the track. As cheesy as it looks, gains are gains.

Abneriel
12-13-2004, 12:11 AM
my advice would be gears first and foremost...as well as a solid axle swap. The cheapest way that I know of is to look around for someone with a GT on another site (mustangworld...corral). Many are willing to swap + pay you extra for your IRS.

During the swap, build that rear. Gears are a must! (4.56 would be ideal...no less than 4.30s) While those are being installed, might as well kill two birds with one stone and build up that rear with some 31 spline axles. I recommend Moser. Eaton makes a great diff, but if you're on a budget like me a 31 spline F150 T-lok will do the job. It'll hold up just fine with slicks/DRs. Its also a lot cheaper than buying an aftermarket diff.

Those would be the first things I would do if I were in your shoes.

Butcher
12-17-2004, 03:09 AM
So, with that being said, you'll need to address traction. But first, you'll need to address the wheel hop issues that go along with the 99 cobras. A mid pipe is going to give you more gains than the loudmouth exhaust will, so I'd definately address that. But, along with that, I'd recommend a set of long tube headers. These also will increase power. Under drive pullies are good, as well. The cold air kit i'd go with would be this...... JLT true cold air RAI. Use this with a big mouth filter. I'd keep the same MAF, as you won't see gains from switching. A custom tune via SCT will get you in the 300-315 rwhp range. This is plenty to get you into the 12's. Deep into the 12's. Now, multiply that torque with a set of 4.56 gears. They are steep, but if you ever want a shot at the 11's without a poweradder (no nitrous, blower, turbo) this is the gear for you. Switching to a solid axle will help out tremendously, but it is pricey. But, it saves over 100 lbs. A set of springs will help a lot too, and not the H&R super sports. If money was no object, go with a tubular K-member with coil overs. Speak with the tech and get yourself a drag race friendly spring rate. If that's not in the cards, and you stay with the IRS, keep your H&R springs in the back, and get yourself a set of 4 cyl fox body front springs. This will keep the car lowered, but have a much softer rate to help weight transfer. Next up is a set of shocks/struts. Lakewoods are great, cheap, but serve one purpose (straight line). A set of adjustable shocks and struts would allow you to fine tune your suspension to get out of the hole, and then fly through the turns on the way home. The easiest way to go 12's would be this. Keep what you've got, toss some slicks on the rear of that thing, toss on a 125 shot of nitrous, and spend a ton of time on the dyno to get your tune spot on. A set of 4.30's would finish the package.[/QUOTE]

Butcher
12-17-2004, 03:11 AM
It's been my exprience that most of your ET is going to come in the first 330ft of the quarter. So, with that being said, you'll need to address traction. But first, you'll need to address the wheel hop issues that go along with the 99 cobras. A mid pipe is going to give you more gains than the loudmouth exhaust will, so I'd definately address that. But, along with that, I'd recommend a set of long tube headers. These also will increase power. Under drive pullies are good, as well. The cold air kit i'd go with would be this...... JLT true cold air RAI. Use this with a big mouth filter. I'd keep the same MAF, as you won't see gains from switching. A custom tune via SCT will get you in the 300-315 rwhp range. This is plenty to get you into the 12's. Deep into the 12's. Now, multiply that torque with a set of 4.56 gears. They are steep, but if you ever want a shot at the 11's without a poweradder (no nitrous, blower, turbo) this is the gear for you. Switching to a solid axle will help out tremendously, but it is pricey. But, it saves over 100 lbs. A set of springs will help a lot too, and not the H&R super sports. If money was no object, go with a tubular K-member with coil overs. Speak with the tech and get yourself a drag race friendly spring rate. If that's not in the cards, and you stay with the IRS, keep your H&R springs in the back, and get yourself a set of 4 cyl fox body front springs. This will keep the car lowered, but have a much softer rate to help weight transfer. Next up is a set of shocks/struts. Lakewoods are great, cheap, but serve one purpose (straight line). A set of adjustable shocks and struts would allow you to fine tune your suspension to get out of the hole, and then fly through the turns on the way home. The easiest way to go 12's would be this. Keep what you've got, toss some slicks on the rear of that thing, toss on a 125 shot of nitrous, and spend a ton of time on the dyno to get your tune spot on. A set of 4.30's would finish the package.
First off the line is everything. Period. :) Mr. Cat is on the money.

Jimmie

Abneriel
12-17-2004, 11:53 AM
Is it possible to get the car running high 11's, low 12's without supercharging it (or any huge expensive upgrade)?


Another thing to consider is your elevation...West Jordan Utah is ~5k' elevation...Its probably going to be near impossible to run 11s there without a power adder or some MAJOR mods unless you're planning on taking a trip elsewhere to run. If running 11's without any huge expensive upgrades is your goal, nitrous is your friend.