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White98SVT
02-09-2005, 02:30 PM
Well it's time for the Slobra to get a new clutch which has been sitting in my closet for about a year and a half. I've been contemplating doing this myself.

My financial position is that I could have it installed, but for the price I could get my own torque wrench and a new flywheel and still have a few hundred left over.

My question is, for those of you who have done it yourself, would you advise me to do it myself or have it done professionally???

dewone
02-09-2005, 02:53 PM
Go head do it yourself. Be carefull how you support the car (on jack stands) or a lift if ones availible. The process isn't that difficult. Drop the drive shaft, unbolt the trans, and mounts slide it out of the way. Then unbolt the pressure plate. I've made the mistake of laying under my truck and unbolting the pressure plate with my snout in the way as the clutch disk fell from behind the plate. However keep hold of both pieces as you remove them. Unbolt the fly wheel. Then reverse the process with the new parts. It is also a good idea to have a spline tool (small wood peice to align the disk and pressure plates as you bolt them back) this makes it much easier to reinstal the trans. Good luck.

tnturbo
02-09-2005, 04:19 PM
I did my first clutch myself. For the 2nd one I paid a reputable shop $150 to do it for me. I dropped the car off in the morning and picked it up before lunch. Sounds like someone is trying to charge you too much money.

smashedheadcat
02-09-2005, 11:34 PM
Like what was posted earlier, there isn't much to it. I don't have a lift, so I do all my work in my 2 car garage.

-Disconnect your battery (this job requires you to)
-remove the shift knob, and handle
-jack the whole car up (support it with stands)
-remove the h-pipe (leave the catback hang)
-remove the dust shield from driver side of trans (5/16 bolt IIRC)
-disconnect the clutch cable
-drain tranny fluid if you want to change it (i recommend it)
-if you don't drain the trans fluid, you'll lose quite a bit from the tailshaft
-use a floor jack to support the trans
-unbolt the driveshaft (12mm bolts) -these are tough to break lose
-unbolt the trans crossmember from tranny, then from the body
-you can now get the jack out of your way (let the trans hang)
-disconnect all the wiring from the trans
-unbolt the starter (3 bolts, 1 battery cable)
-and unbolt the rest of the bolts from the bellhousing/engine
-keep an eye on the trans incase it starts to slide out on it's own (probably won't)
-After you get all the bolts out, support the trans with a jack (just take some of the weight off of it)
-grab the tailshaft and start rocking back and forth, it should start to seperate itself from the engine. If it doesn't make sure all the bolts are out. You may need to use a screw driver to pry the bellhousing and the block apart, but not likely.
-after the trans is seperated, remove the pressure plate bolts. it should stay in place because of the alignment pins
-once the bolts are out, make sure you get a hand on both the clutch disc and the pressure plate, and remove them together
-remove the flywheel
-remove pilot bearing (if required)
Install:
pretty much the reverse of removal..... have the flywheel resurfaced by a local shop or replace it. As you re-assemble your new clutch, have brake cleaner and lint free cloths handy to keep the contact surface clean (fingerprints etc). Also, the clutch disk should be marked front/back, but if it's not, make sure the center section of the disk (where the input shaft goes through) that sticks out the farthest is pointing towards the transmission.
I hope this helps.

SNAKEYE
02-10-2005, 09:02 AM
Go head do it yourself. Be carefull how you support the car (on jack stands) or a lift if ones availible. The process isn't that difficult. Drop the drive shaft, unbolt the trans, and mounts slide it out of the way. Then unbolt the pressure plate. I've made the mistake of laying under my truck and unbolting the pressure plate with my snout in the way as the clutch disk fell from behind the plate. However keep hold of both pieces as you remove them. Unbolt the fly wheel. Then reverse the process with the new parts. It is also a good idea to have a spline tool (small wood peice to align the disk and pressure plates as you bolt them back) this makes it much easier to reinstal the trans. Good luck.Must clutches come with an alignment tool. It's just a fancy plastic rod that looks like the tranny's input shaft. A properly sized wooden dowel will also work. If you do not use some type of device to align the clutch, chance are going to be pretty good that you won't get the tip of the input shaft into the pilot bearing when shoving the tranny into place. This is not a good time or place to find out that you needed to use an alignment tool. If you are working in a garage and are using jack stands, put the car up as high off the floor as you possibly can. You are going to need all of the vertical space you can get when you remove/install the tranny. If you have a small floor jack it will come in handy to support the tranny as you pull it out and then re-install it. It makes aligning the input shaft during reinstallation a breeze. Or perhaps you could borrow/rent a tranny jack thingy. It looks like a creeper with a scissors stand that cradles the bottom of the tranny. You load the tranny aboard it in its lowered position, roll it under the car, and jack it up. While your're at it, replace the pilot bearing there in the center of the flywheel and replace the throwout bearing. You don't want to have to go in after 5000 miles to do them!
HINT: During dis-assembly of the pressure plate/clutch from the flywheel, stick the alignment tool thru the clutch and into the pilot bearing to keep the clutch disc from dropping out and hitting you in the nose!

dewone
02-10-2005, 03:49 PM
I did that on the third or so time I replaced the clutch in my 81 F100. (The Nose Job) Got real good at it by the sixth time before I traded it in on my 91 with automatic. My spline tool was wood but it had the offsets in it. Still have the spline tool.
Three on the tree just couldn't pull the boat and truck up the ramps without smoking clutches. Back then had to buy the tool seperate. Nice to know they come with the kits now. I'll never forget the first clutch I did. A 74 Capri rented a space on base in Norfolk didn't have the tool. Took forever lining that thing up. Had to keep the pressure plate loose and use the trans to line up the disk and plate reach in the the throw out arm hole tighten a couple bolts move the trans back tighten-em up and you know the rest to finish. Young and dumb, but got it done.

Mystic_Cobra
02-11-2005, 12:04 AM
If you can get it done for $150. Thats a STEAL! I paid $250 for one and they said I'm never working on a Mustang again. It's really not that bad if you have some mechanical skills, tools, a relatively flat work area and jack/4 jack stands (or a lift). Even for a first timer, under 10 hrs. Easy in a weekend with a help for the heavy stuff. I used my floor jack and a few 2x4 blocks screwed together for a trans holder to help me raise and lower the trans while lying under the car. Make a big difference.

SNAKEYE
02-11-2005, 02:13 PM
If you can get it done for $150. Thats a STEAL! I paid $250 for one and they said I'm never working on a Mustang again. It's really not that bad if you have some mechanical skills, tools, a relatively flat work area and jack/4 jack stands (or a lift). Even for a first timer, under 10 hrs. Easy in a weekend with a help for the heavy stuff. I used my floor jack and a few 2x4 blocks screwed together for a trans holder to help me raise and lower the trans while lying under the car. Make a big difference.
I did one in a '72 Pinto by myself, on my back on the garage floor WITHOUT A JACK TO LIFT IT UP INTO PLACE! It was not a pretty scene with my back on the floor and the tranny on my chest. After I got it stuck up in there my arms just twitched for 10 minutes from the strain. Never again! Put the car up on jack stands as high as you can. Set the tranny on the jack equipped with any kind of cradle you can devise, roll it under the car, and jack it up into place. Conveniently, my '50 Ford has a removable floor panel at the front end of the tranny tunnel. A helper can simply reach down thru the opening to steady the whole thing while providing directions on how to manuever the jack to achieve insertion. Ah for the good old days.

tnturbo
02-11-2005, 02:59 PM
Yep, $150 all day any day. At a Mustang shop even

White98SVT
02-17-2005, 11:55 PM
UPS and DHL have been good to me.

Royal Purple manual transmission fluid and a new billet steel flywheel. Clutch kit is in the closet and new Accel wires in the mail.

http://www.mustangmods.com/data/750/flywheel_and_rp2.jpg

D Day is Sunday for all the installs :thumbsup: :bounce:

AAM Cobra 98
04-14-2005, 09:25 AM
what kind of clutch your going to use ............. the stock or an aftermarket ?