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View Full Version : Pulley size mod..which one?


cobra330
02-13-2005, 06:58 PM
I already have a 2.80 RR but, I want some opinions as to which one you have and why? Do you have any mods like an upgraded HE based on your pulley size? Did you get a chip for it..or just reflash the computer? Let me know.

Thanks!

InfamousSVT
02-13-2005, 07:45 PM
Mike, I went with the 2.76 pulley. I'm not going to get another pulley when porting my eaton, many people are running the 2.76 pulley and not having any problems from it, so I'm going to do the same thing. Also, I upgraded my HE with the LFP heatexchanger with snake stencil. When upgrading your pulley you will want to upgrade the heat exchanger so that you can help prevent heat soak from the supercharger running harder.

Hope this helps!:)

NO 5 OH
02-14-2005, 02:22 AM
I already have a 2.80 RR but, I want some opinions as to which one you have and why? Do you have any mods like an upgraded HE based on your pulley size? Did you get a chip for it..or just reflash the computer? Let me know.

Ah... pulley sizes. I went through I don't know how many and have the pullies to show for it ;)

First I ran a 2.76" pulley and a Predator pulley tune. My car wouldn't run whatsoever on the 2.76" pulley with the pulley tune maxed out on fuel. I bought the 3.00" and ran it for awhile... then they came out with the R12 update for the Predator and I put the 2.76 back on. Basic Predator pulley tune went rich above 4K and stayed there... changed to a SCT 9100 flasher.

I couldn't really cut down on belt slip... so I put the 3.00" back on top and went to a Metco 6lb lower. The combo was probably a good one but I didn't have an aftermarket gauge at the time to tell me how much boost it was making. I then tried a 2.80/6lb lower... overspun the blower a bit too much and the tune went rich surprisingly. I then switched the upper back to the 3.00", then later went to the 2.80/4lb lower and ran it until I bought the Whipple.

When I got the Whipple I swapped my best friend my 9100 flasher for a SCT 4 position chip he has... as it took way too long to load programs in the tuner for me. Now I just switch the position on the cable, and a new tune is ready to go. So far on the Whipple I've ran a 3.50/4lb lower, Reichard 3.20/2lb lower, Reichard 3.00/2lb lower, and the 3.20/4lb lower as well. I have yet to put the 3.00/4lb combo on yet... and I still have the 6lb ring on stand-by if the 4lb ring isn't enough :D

You should have an upgraded HE as a "to do" on your car... uping the boost on these cars creates a lot more heat and under boost the computer will read IAT2 temps and take out a bunch of timing to compensate. I personally witnessed over last weekend a ported Eaton car lose 8* timing at max due to a stock heat exchanger. Max timing was set around 19 I believe... that made the max towards the end about 11 to 12*. That killed a bunch of horsepower. I have a Gords HE with the twin spal fan kit... expensive but worth every penny.

Chip or flasher is up to your opinion basically. I'd personally run a flasher over having the computer flashed... you can't run a chip or a flasher on that computer unless it's returned to stock. As I said I run a chip now... but the only "bad" thing about a flasher is the time it takes to load a program.

HTH,

Shannon

cobra330
02-14-2005, 01:49 PM
Hey Shannon!

Yeah a Gords HE will be coming soon...and I have an SCT Chip so, I may do that with the 2.80 and the HE upgrade. I assume that will reduce heat..plus I will do the hood mod to release some more heat..my biggest question is overspin on the Eaton...seems it's a 50/50 split as to bad/good...Given this..the upgrade has been put on hold until the Gords on and the hod mod is done..then it will happen with a good tune on my chip. Also..as I have been told..I will need a cool weather tune and hot weather tune..as it makes a big difference..

Thanks to all!