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AAM Cobra 98
04-10-2005, 05:22 PM
Hi guys,

I just bought a 1997 rio red Cobra which is very rare in this part of the world i live in Bahrain in the middle east .... after going through the forum, i have decided on the following mods please provide me with your feedback:
1- JLT CAI
2- MGW blue handle short shifter
3- Steeda or BBK pullys
4- BBK O/R x-pipe ....

i read alot of you guys get the 4.10 or 4.30 ratio but we here race for 1 mile, we have guys racing 1/4 mile but i am not one of them so do you recommend me changing the 3.27 as i am looking for top speed .....

I use to own a 3000GT TT i loved that car but had one problem modding that car needs a huge wallte mine is very small :)

smashedheadcat
04-10-2005, 05:48 PM
Hi guys,

I just bought a 1997 rio red Cobra which is very rare in this part of the world i live in Bahrain in the middle east .... after going through the forum, i have decided on the following mods please provide me with your feedback:
1- JLT CAI
2- MGW blue handle short shifter
3- Steeda or BBK pullys
4- BBK O/R x-pipe ....

i read alot of you guys get the 4.10 or 4.30 ratio but we here race for 1 mile, we have guys racing 1/4 mile but i am not one of them so do you recommend me changing the 3.27 as i am looking for top speed .....

I use to own a 3000GT TT i loved that car but had one problem modding that car needs a huge wallte mine is very small :)

Wow, Bahrain huh? I spent over 5 months there a few years ago. Shakhesa or something like that? Anyway, for the mods you have listed, going with a 4.10 gear will give you more of a top speed than what the factory 3.27's will. The reason is, the 4.10's will put you in the meat of your powerband in 5th gear. The 3.27's are just too tall and it will not accelerate much at all above 152-153 in 5th gear. The car actually wants to slow down at that speed. With the 4.10's you'll be able to go beyond 152 and thensome. If racing at speeds like that, I would recommend some suspension mods to help keep the car low and flat should you enter some kind of bend in the road at that kind of speed. Also, safety equipment would be a smart investment too I believe. Not only will it help keep you safe (I don't think it will help much over 150mph) but it will keep some structural support in the chassis to help prevent suspension binding. Best of luck!

AAM Cobra 98
04-14-2005, 08:20 AM
Thanks alot for your valuable information .... i think i won't order the JLT CAI as it eliminates the twin brace ... what other filter do you recommend and i have to change my clutch what do recommend ........


I have another problem the previous owner has removed the kats and i have the check engine light on and you can smell the fuel fumes in the exhaust are these 2 issues related and what to do to solve it (p.s we don't need any kats around here as there isn't any law for keeping them) ......

watting for your valuable input ....

nckissfan
04-14-2005, 08:31 AM
Western Motorsports in Canada offers a high velocity CAI, that will not eliminate the strut tower brace. They claim 20+hp gain from a dynoed car. It is not a flashy as the JLT, but sounds ok. The BBK is flashy, and will work with the strut tower brace.

djbobbyzee
04-14-2005, 09:03 AM
AAM... 1 Mile races??? I wish my 97 Cobra would fit as Carry On Luggage... I'd love a chance to wind her out.

Safety gear, safety gear, safety gear. I used to race Big Block Modified years ago. I've hit a wall at high speed. Anything over 120 MPH will make a splat sound with your brain. Focus on HELMET first, then Roll cage/bars. Yes, it would be sad to flip your Cobra, but even sadder to lose a member/forum buddy.

As for mod suggestions, BBK also makes a direct fit CAI & it's worked very well for me so far. Runs you about $269.xx US dollars.

B-R-A-K-E-S! At 150+ you need to stop too. Yes, SVT makes some mean brakes, but... we don't do 150+ on a regular basis here (at least not most of us). Check out the shape of the stock setup... Steeda has a nice brembo setup, but if you race top speed a-l-o-t, think about going w/ a pro setup. Getting UP to speed is fun, stopping safely is how you survive to tell about it.

Also, I would lower the car about 1 to 1.5 inches. At speeds over 110-130 you'll begin to feel a little "lighter." The less ground clearance between the car & the pavement, the less of an air pocket. If you're going to lower, don't forget the caster/camber plates to save you alignment.

Get some drag radials. BFG or Nitto are nice.

KEEP YOUR STRUT TOWER BAR. Also look into some Subframe connectors (my next buy). If you get a little bit crooked at high speeds, the last thing you want is body flex. They do make drag Susp packages for straight line racing.

Definitely yes on the MGW or Steeda Tri-Ax shifters. They'll save your clutch fork.

Same yes for UD pullies & X-pipe. Don't forget the open flow mufflers (if any). Headers too.

Finally, see what may need to be done (if anything) with your chip. Cars mix fuel differently at different atmospheres. SVT Tech may give you some answers, or try the JET or Hypertech websites. The Cobra was built in MI, USA & designed for the air here. Not sure what the O2 content, humidity, or altitude is there, but it may be something to think about. My father bought a Harley tuned in SLC Utah... brought it here to sea level in NC... HUGE retune needed on the bike's carb.

nckissfan
04-14-2005, 09:07 AM
yes, subframes would help a whole lot! Kenny Brown makes a matrix system that works well. They, also, have a rear shock tower brace that would help the cars stability.

AAM Cobra 98
04-14-2005, 09:43 PM
thanks alot guys for the info ... we around here are used to these races it is either 500meter (approx 1/4 mile) or 2 kilometer and we have guys go 3.2 kilometers ... we had a race between a moded PORSHE TT and a Diablo the race was 3.2 kilometers ....

Guys i have this guy who lives next door and owns a CAMARO LS1 2000 with an exhaust, he wants to race me what do you think my car has no aftermarket parts only the kats removed do i have a chance lets say 700 meter race ........

dewone
04-15-2005, 07:41 AM
If he's automatic take him. For the check engine light get MIL Eliminators $50 US. K&N makes an FIPK Kit (Fuel Injection Performance Kit) That works without removing the tower brace. Jegs or Summit will have both items.

AAM Cobra 98
04-15-2005, 05:18 PM
thanks for the replies you guys are great help .... i guess i wll go with the FIPK and MIL plus the 4.10, BBK UDP, BBK O/R x-pipe, Flowmaster twin chamber, as i will be ordering all the stuff from SUMMIT because of the shipping cost to bahrain i will go with the B&M hammer shifter and the RAM clutch ...

what do you guys think of the last two mods .... as for the CAMARO i will be racing him after getting all the stuff in the cobra because i feel the clutch is starting to slip in 2nd gear .....

nckissfan
04-15-2005, 05:20 PM
you need to look at MGW. Their shifter is supposed to be the best in the business now. There are several in the club that swear by it.

AAM Cobra 98
04-15-2005, 05:23 PM
guys shall i go with the RAM clutch or the 11" FORD racing upgrade which one do you guys recommend the Ford racing is lessing damaging to my wallet ...

AAM Cobra 98
04-15-2005, 05:25 PM
I sent an email to MGW they don't ship to Bahrain they mentioned some insurance problem ... thats why i am going with the best summit can offer :(

nckissfan
04-15-2005, 05:40 PM
damn, that is not good. I feel sorry that you can't get a great part like that one.

Abneriel
04-15-2005, 05:56 PM
guys shall i go with the RAM clutch or the 11" FORD racing upgrade which one do you guys recommend the Ford racing is lessing damaging to my wallet ...
if you can get a hold of one, I would recommend an 03 setup, it comes with an aluminum flywheel already, and it's rated to hold a lot more horses than our cars put out in stock form.

I'm also thinking that 4.56-4.88 gears and a .5 overdrive Tremec T-56 aren't just the ticket for your top end racing...the 4.88s will get you moving despite the 2.97 1st gear ratio, it will also keep you moving with a .74 5th gear, and keep the car freeway friendly with the .5 6th gear...

with the 4.10s, the car WILL pull past the 150 mark, but it will be slower in getting there, which may cost you the race

AAM Cobra 98
04-15-2005, 05:57 PM
Me too :( ... i am looking at hurst shifter do u have any feedback about it ... it seems good as guys aroung here have used them on some chevys and they like them ...

Abneriel
04-15-2005, 06:00 PM
Me too :( ... i am looking at hurst shifter do u have any feedback about it ... it seems good as guys aroung here have used them on some chevys and they like them ...
if you can't get the MGW, try the Pro 5.0 shifter before resorting to the Hurst

AAM Cobra 98
04-15-2005, 06:10 PM
Thanks alot ... i will check with summit for the pro 5.0 shifter and 03 cobra clutch set ....

AAM Cobra 98
04-15-2005, 06:15 PM
I got the clutch set on summit web page i am not sure iuf it is the same as the 03 cobra or not as it is 11" and with 99 flywheel is it the one you recommended ............ part number is FMS-M-7060-C46

smashedheadcat
04-16-2005, 08:55 AM
I think you'd want to stay away from a drag radial in a 1 mile sprint. The sidewall on drag radials is very soft, as it's main purpose is for off the line acceleration. I would go with a sticky Z rated street tire. At your power level, with proper driving, you can get off the line quickly and clean, plus you'll have much more stability over 100mph than with a drag radial. I've used bf 275/40 drag radial, 315/35/17 bf and nitto drag radials. They are all allow the back of the car to float around a little above 110-120mph. The nitto 315/35 was the most solid (on a 10.5 inch wheel), but nothing I would want to accelerate for 1 mile straight with. Try to open up airflow through the radiator, as heat could be a problem. Bahrain isn't exactly cold ya know. I would recommend all the structural support you could get. Also, a road race K-member such as Maximum motorsports or Griggs would help shed weight off the front, and help tremendously if there happened to be a bend in the road while traveling that fast.

Abneriel
04-16-2005, 12:40 PM
I got the clutch set on summit web page i am not sure iuf it is the same as the 03 cobra or not as it is 11" and with 99 flywheel is it the one you recommended ............ part number is FMS-M-7060-C46
it is not the same, but it is still a good kit and will clamp down harder than the stock one.