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View Full Version : EGR-IAC-Cleaning / location


BlitzkriegSnake
05-12-2005, 02:51 AM
A few days back I bought gas at a place I now know I shouldn't have, a couple of people have told me they have got bad gas there also. So a couple of days ago I go out to drive my car and when I started it, it would idle rough a second then shut off, it would do this a couple of times till it would warm up a little then it wouldn't quit but it would idle rough. I am going to clean my MAF, change my fuel filter and also clean my IAC & EGR. I think I have a idea were the IAC & EGR are located but i'm not 100% sure. I know if your standing in front of the engine they are on the right side of the intake, but there are a few things on the right side and I need to know exactley whitch ones they are. So if anybody could post a pic showing there exact location or describe in detail were they are, that would really help me out.Please excuse my stupidity but i'm just starting to work on my car a little and i'm not that familiar with my Cobras engine yet. Any help will be greatly appreciated! THANKS LARRY M.:confused: :dunno:

dewone
05-12-2005, 10:12 AM
Larry,
Start with running some Dry Gas through the system. It's amazing how it can fix a bad gas problem.

SNAKEYE
05-12-2005, 08:41 PM
Larry,
Start with running some Dry Gas through the system. It's amazing how it can fix a bad gas problem.A $4 bottle bottle of injector cleaner couldn't hurt either.

Stavesacre21
05-12-2005, 11:24 PM
Speaking of bad gas, where is the best place to get gas? IS it true that Shell carries the best?

I know that a few local places have 93 octane, but i'm not super fond of those places. Would a good station that carries 92 octane be better then a bad place that carries 93?

Just curious...



as for your situation, i agree with the fuel cleaner...worked wonders for me when i got it out of full storage :thumbsup:

01CobraDude
05-13-2005, 10:12 AM
Speaking of bad gas, where is the best place to get gas? IS it true that Shell carries the best?
I don't remember where I read this (a Consumer Reports, maybe) but I remember reading that only Shell and Amoco / BP met or exceeded their advertised octane levels in every test performed. For that reason alone, I trust no one but those two. Weird and perhaps anal? I suppose. But I'd rather not take the chances with what I'm running through my baby.

Stavesacre21
05-13-2005, 11:20 AM
BP?! That's funny, cause i've heard from BP employees that they'd never put BP gas in their own cars, because it's so dirty. May be of a higher octane, but that's always been one that i've known to stay away from...

Might wanna heed the warning :lurk:

ausie
05-17-2005, 06:56 AM
The IAC is a small cylinder shaped part which is mounted next to the throttle body. It is used to regulate air to bypass a closed throttle plate while the car is running in idle. The EGR is usually rusty cast iron with a black saucer shaped disk on top of it located on the intake plenum closer to the dirvers side of the firewall (depends on what year your car is). The EGR valve is probably the most difficult to remove due to the exhaust tube attached to it. It also uses a flaked metal gasket. I doubt that either will be affected by bad gas. It is best to leave the EGR alone unless you are having issues with the "check engine" light and you throw codes regarding the EGR. Eventually it will get carbon deposits in it that will hinder its operation. As for the IAC, it is a sensitive part and some cleaners will damage the solenoid windings. To replace them will cost a bundle. The EGR is about $82 (you should also replace the gasket too) and the IAC is around $160 (NAPA price). Use patience when removing the EGR since the exhaust tube takes a while to loosen up due to the fine threads. Use anti-sieze on the exhaust tube connector when you replace the EGR otherwise it will be difficult to remove later if needed.

Most cases, a rough idel is a result of vacuum leak. This issue is directly related to the PCV valve. I would replace that first since it bears the lowest cost. If the IAC is at fault, the result would be erratic idle speed, generally runs high near 2000 RPM in worse case mode. IF that is the case, cleaning it may help since the pintle may get stuck if it is dirty. It may lead to an engine stall if it is dirty but probably not the cause for rough idle. Typically if it is dirty, the RPM will gradually climb up uncontrolled and the MIL light will turn on after a while. As for the EGR, it should not be active while the engine is cold. During a warm start you will hear it click open, or at least it will cycle open/closed while the engine is warming up. A dirty MAF may result in rough idle too but is also associated with sluggish throttle response. The PCV is probably the issue.

SNAKEYE
05-17-2005, 07:47 AM
The IAC is a small cylinder shaped part which is mounted next to the throttle body. It is used to regulate air to bypass a closed throttle plate while the car is running in idle. The EGR is usually rusty cast iron with a black saucer shaped disk on top of it located on the intake plenum closer to the dirvers side of the firewall (depends on what year your car is). The EGR valve is probably the most difficult to remove due to the exhaust tube attached to it. It also uses a flaked metal gasket. I doubt that either will be affected by bad gas. It is best to leave the EGR alone unless you are having issues with the "check engine" light and you throw codes regarding the EGR. Eventually it will get carbon deposits in it that will hinder its operation. As for the IAC, it is a sensitive part and some cleaners will damage the solenoid windings. To replace them will cost a bundle. The EGR is about $82 (you should also replace the gasket too) and the IAC is around $160 (NAPA price). Use patience when removing the EGR since the exhaust tube takes a while to loosen up due to the fine threads. Use anti-sieze on the exhaust tube connector when you replace the EGR otherwise it will be difficult to remove later if needed.

Most cases, a rough idel is a result of vacuum leak. This issue is directly related to the PCV valve. I would replace that first since it bears the lowest cost. If the IAC is at fault, the result would be erratic idle speed, generally runs high near 2000 RPM in worse case mode. IF that is the case, cleaning it may help since the pintle may get stuck if it is dirty. It may lead to an engine stall if it is dirty but probably not the cause for rough idle. Typically if it is dirty, the RPM will gradually climb up uncontrolled and the MIL light will turn on after a while. As for the EGR, it should not be active while the engine is cold. During a warm start you will hear it click open, or at least it will cycle open/closed while the engine is warming up. A dirty MAF may result in rough idle too but is also associated with sluggish throttle response. The PCV is probably the issue.
On '98's and older the IAC is front leftside corner of the intake manifold. It's still a silver cylinder-lookind thing with a u-shaped 1" diameter rubber hose and an electrical connector plugged into it

01CobraDude
05-17-2005, 08:33 AM
BP?! That's funny, cause i've heard from BP employees that they'd never put BP gas in their own cars, because it's so dirty. May be of a higher octane, but that's always been one that i've known to stay away from...

Might wanna heed the warning :lurk:
Appreciate the info...and I most certainly will adjust my habits as a result of your warning!

If I recall correctly, you set up the Columbus go carting deal. Sorry I couldn't make it - I would have loved to come over (live in Indianapolis area) but travel a lot for work and getting to events is sometimes a challenge. I'll certainly make one in the near future. Hopefully there's something coming up this summer to attend!

BlitzkriegSnake
05-29-2005, 12:35 AM
Thanks guys for the help. I haven't had a chance to work on the problem yet, since I don't drive it every day. I am going to change the fuel filter, and I have a question about that. Do you guys just replace the fuel filter with the stock version, or is there a better fuel filter for my car? The reason I ask is, on my Lightning some guys say that a fuel filter off of a 98 Navigator is bigger and better than the stock Lightnings fuel filter. And then i'll replace the 'PCV' valve. Have you guys ever heard of running a product called 'SEAFOAM' threw the 'PCV' system to clean the 'IMRC's' and any other carbon build up in your motor? There are some guys that swear by it, they say you can feel a big difference in how your car feels when you drive it. They say the IMRC's get carbon build-up on them and they don't work as good,and as more build-up gets on them the worse it gets. Then you need to take them out and clean them,but with my car only having 37,000 miles on it, they said I could get by now with the SEAFOAM treatment threw the PCV system. To do the SEAFOAM treatment you take the PCV valve loose and start your car then you stick the PCV valve down in the can and let it suck it into your engine and when it's empty cut the car off right then. Let it set for 30 min then start it backup and the car smokes like crazy for a min or two. Then drive it for awhile till you can feel it running right again. I thought about trying it but i'm not sure yet. THANKS AGAIN, LARRY M.