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View Full Version : 2.80 pulley setup ?'s


BOOMER23
06-26-2005, 09:48 PM
Hey guys, for the most part I know what is needed for a pulley swap but you guys give me your opinions on what is absolutely necessary in your opinion and how much you guys think it will run me to do, also the big thing I am wondering is how much you think a good custom tune will run me from the most reputable tuners around, I mean I wanna know everything so I can see if it is even feasible financially for me

Thanks,
Ashton

InfamousSVT
06-26-2005, 10:12 PM
Well the bare minimum that you can get by with is a 2.80 pulley (Billet Flow $150) you'll need a shorter belt ($35) and a good dyno tune (Amazon Racing $250 + cost of chip)

If you want to do it right and not have any over heating issues then this is what I'd do:

Pulley - http://www.billetflow.com/supercharger_pulleys.htm

Idler Pullies - http://www.billetflow.com/IdlerBracket.htm

Heat Exchanger - http://www.lightningforceperformance.com/catalog/productDetails.php?productID=1140

CAI - http://www.jlttruecoldair.com/products.php?make=Ford&model=Mustang%20SVT%20Cobra&year=2003-2004

The prices I have put above are just rough guesses. The links provided will give you a accurate idea of what prices will be involved. Just make sure you get a good tune before driving it hard:D

Hope this helps.

-Infamous

BOOMER23
06-26-2005, 10:49 PM
Thanks, I appreciate the info and some more opinions would be great also but one other thing you mentioned the cost of the chip, which one would you guys go with and how much would you pay, Ive heard tuners like to work with certain brands of chips, whats the best and also how much would it set me back to have a heat exchanger and a idler bracket with pulleys and the belt installed im needing to know to get her all together how much its gonna cost Im a poor college kid with dreams of higher boost

InfamousSVT
06-26-2005, 11:12 PM
Well you have different options with the chips/tuners.

Since you're in the NC area I'd go with Amazon Racing to get a tune. They work with either Diablo or SCT. I have the SCT 4 bank chip in mine now and I got it from www.modulardepot.com (http://www.modulardepot.com) and it came with 1 free custom tune, so that's what I've got running in it now until I can get a dyno tune from Rick at Amazon Racing.

Chip from Modular Depot ran $325.00 plus $8.00 shipping
You should be able to install the heat exchanger yourself if you have basic hand tools and minimum mechanical skills. To install the pulley you'll need a pulley tool.

blk04cobra1
06-27-2005, 09:48 AM
All the information above is a good start. Most people will do the basic upgrades (intake, exhaust, pulley, and chip) and will see 450+rwhp--450+tq...I would suggest also investing in the cooling mods (ie: heat exchanger; intercooler reservoir, new water pump)...all in all, it'll cost you around $600 for the pulley + tune...:thumbsup:

BOOMER23
06-27-2005, 11:00 PM
Hey guys does the estimated $250 for the tune include the dyno time or is that seperate. Ive just always seemed to hear about "cost of dyno time"

InfamousSVT
06-28-2005, 12:11 AM
I know that Amazon Racing charges $250 for a dyno tune, this does NOT include the chip!

But the cost of dyno time will range anywhere from $250 on up

blk04cobra1
06-28-2005, 09:32 AM
Most places will cut you a discount on future tunes if you pay the original cost...not to mention a dyno tune is the best way to go b/c you can adjust due to your A/F ratio...modifying these cars is relatively cheap, but IMO you get what you pay for and going the "cheap" route with these cars is not a good idea

kilroy
06-28-2005, 11:27 AM
Hey guys, for the most part I know what is needed for a pulley swap but you guys give me your opinions on what is absolutely necessary in your opinion and how much you guys think it will run me to do, also the big thing I am wondering is how much you think a good custom tune will run me from the most reputable tuners around, I mean I wanna know everything so I can see if it is even feasible financially for me

Thanks,
Ashton Ashton, aside from my first mod(Stingers), Rick Erdman (Amazon Racing) hooked me up with a RR 2.85" upper, a cold air kit, and chip/tune. 475/497 tune (!). It runs pretty good for the few things done to it.
Only thing that sux about NOT having the H/E upgraded is the hour wait in the pits cooling down. I didn't need it but because I like to run as many laps as possible at the track so now I have upgraded.

Gates Green Stripe belt will run you ~$40 or you can go NAPA's Yellow Stripe (made by Gates & identical in construction).

My Whipple goes on as soon as Rick & Linn get their new shop ready for business in Anderson, SC (mid-late July for the MD dyno). Rick can tune your car on the street if your timeline is sooner than a month... Personally, I'm waiting for their dyno to be setup & recalibrated by MD before my Whipple goes on. No two cars are alike & mail order tunes can be a crap shoot.

If you're interested, I'll part with my RR 2.85"/Metco 100mm idler for a song -again, after the Whipple install. I also have a AR Pulley Puller :D I will no longer need. PM me.

Amazon Racing's new shop number is (864)332-0955

:thumbsup:

BOOMER23
06-28-2005, 02:15 PM
Well, Im getting a little bit confused now. How many of you think the upgraded heat exchanger is a must, and what can i expect for a little while without it, I dont race this car on track and dont do any thing strenuous that would really build too much heat, What im saying is the most taxing thing I do is go to the local cruise spot and occasionally get into the boost for some fun with other people that can sometimes coincidentally be beside me (not for long) getting on their car as well! So can the heat exchanger wait or is it just gonna cost me more in the long run say getting another tune as soon as i throw it on there and how conservative is the tune gonna have to be without the H/E I am, from what you guys are saying, expecting around 450 rwhp or so, and I dont want my tuner to push it at all, Im not that crazy so do i still expect the 450 or is it gonna be lower.

blk04cobra1
06-28-2005, 04:20 PM
you'll be fine w/out the H/E...if you do intake/pulley/exhaust/tune, you'll see 450rwhp conservatively...those 4 things will cost you between $1500-$2000 (depending on which brands you choose)

cobra330
06-29-2005, 11:49 AM
Do a 2.80 with 4lb lower...but, I highly recommend the upgraded HE...Pop your hood one time after a nice run....and see how hot that is...guess what happens when you add the upper? Blower spins MUCH faster..meaning more heat..heat is bad. I upgraded with GordsFord....but, you can do the others too..just do it. I am biased probably but, I also HIGHLY recommend the new X-CAL 2 flasher as opposed to a chip. It clears codes, datalogs and is also user adjustable..so, once Amazon tunes it you can make changes via e-mail..if need be... Also once you change the lower..and maybe the upper only..you'll need to replace your MAF..as it may peg..again Amazon can tell you that too.

At any rate...I have the 2.80 upper and 4lb lower with exhaust and CAI tuned by X-Cal2....and I gotta tell you HOLY CRAP what a difference. Estimated boost is about 16lbs...with estimated HP on my Race program with Race Fuel..500+HP. I can't wait to hit the dyno to see how close I am....

BOOMER23
06-29-2005, 04:18 PM
Im not tryin to push her for all shes worth my only question is cause to be honest i wanna stay away from lower pulleys and a heat exchanger at least the HE for right now due to financial reasons so Im just wondering with a 4 pulley idler setup am i gonna slip any with a 2.76 and am I gonna overheat or be the least bit dangerous since i dont do any auto xing or dragging except for the occasional stoplight sprint. I have no use for datalogging and I dont really need emailed programs and such just a good custom tune one time after the upgrades and then maybe another tune after the HE and some other goodies down the road, of course after this pulley deal the next things on my list are prolly gonna be a lightbar, 2 piece tonneau cover and some H&R springs, with the extra power though i might wanna get rid of these shitty tires I got at some point.

cobra330
06-29-2005, 05:33 PM
Considering the stock pulley is like a 3 something..your going to be spinning that Eaton quite a bit...even without the lower. As soon as you can ..I recommend the HE....as a safety precaution..especially in the summer time. Your call though.

Programs..well...it's alot easier to spend $399.99 up front on an X-cal 2...with 3 programs as you can switch as needed and typically those who program your X-cal will retune with mods for free..so, $400.00 upfront for free upgrade tunes later..is quite a bargin...and trust me..these are better than chips. Again your call though.

I say this as I did ALOT of research before I dropped the money since I also can only spend so much at a time..I don't want to re do anything....

Just my .02

blk04cobra1
06-29-2005, 05:40 PM
I have to say that everyone looks for a bargain, it's only natural, but if you're that worried about it, dont do it...wait til you have the disposable income in case something happens that was not accounted for...good luck with your decision :thumbsup:

cobra330
06-29-2005, 05:41 PM
Got to agree with that..cause ...if you do it..and not complete...well let's just say engines cost ALOT of money.

kilroy
06-30-2005, 01:04 PM
Im not tryin to push her for all shes worth my only question is cause to be honest i wanna stay away from lower pulleys and a heat exchanger at least the HE for right now due to financial reasons so Im just wondering with a 4 pulley idler setup am i gonna slip any with a 2.76 and am I gonna overheat or be the least bit dangerous since i dont do any auto xing or dragging except for the occasional stoplight sprint. Not all pulleys are the same. A RR pulley & Metco idler setup will have you sitting pretty. Blower effeciency will start to come into play when you spin 'em faster & faster as well... FWIW, upper/lower combos tend to provide a little more torque compared to upper only configs but if you wanna stay simple - do a 2.90-2.80 upper, CAI & tune. Netted me 475rwhp/497 & 11.7s in the quarter. On the dyno (& Track ET bears this out), when the car was "hot lapped/pulled" it lost 10rwhp. Did it hurt the car? No. When cooled & re-run the initial cooled numbers return - as do the ETs at the strip. The H/E does not make you any more power. It allows you to produce peak power longer due to its higher effeciency. Is it absolutely necessary on a moderate bolt-on car? Not absolutely, imo.

I have no use for datalogging and I dont really need emailed programs and such just a good custom tune one time after the upgrades and then maybe another tune after the HE and some other goodies down the road, of course after this pulley deal the next things on my list are prolly gonna be a lightbar, 2 piece tonneau cover and some H&R springs, with the extra power though i might wanna get rid of these shitty tires I got at some point. My Stinger cat-back netted me 28rwhp & was my first mod. I highly recommend uncorking that exhaust!

cobra330
06-30-2005, 01:06 PM
You can do whatever you want...just my .02...but, you'll be sorry...once you start generating alot of he.....and no a HE does not produce HP..it saves engines/SC...but, again..your car..your money.

kilroy
06-30-2005, 03:03 PM
You can do whatever you want...just my .02...but, you'll be sorry...once you start generating alot of he.....and no a HE does not produce HP..it saves engines/SC...but, again..your car..your money.
You'll be sorry? It's as exactly as I said. Been there done that. The man won't frag his motor by having a less effecient H/E with those bolt-ons...

If for a minute you think IAT2 won't pull timing you're misinformed. The PCM saves your motor, NOT the H/E.

kilroy
06-30-2005, 03:48 PM
*Realizing that I sounded like a prick just now, I apologize cobra330. I do respectfully disagree that with what is intended for BOOMER23's initial mods that the H/E upgrade is mandantory - or to save a motor. Just not the case.

cobra330
06-30-2005, 07:54 PM
You'll be sorry? It's as exactly as I said. Been there done that. The man won't frag his motor by having a less effecient H/E with those bolt-ons...

If for a minute you think IAT2 won't pull timing you're misinformed. The PCM saves your motor, NOT the H/E.


No problem..everyone is entitled to your opinion..although pulling timing kills power..still not good. And if I am not mistaken...that also will fault your A/F ratio...which is not bad..on a stock Cobra given all the tolerances built in..but, exhaust alone will start this on a trend since aftermarket exhaust...meaning complete system...will flow better..meaning more air..not good if you are pulling time too.

Again...my .02..I preferred to err on the side of caution and buy the HE...just like I'll be getting an IRS brace and Level 2 DSS Halfshafts...as I don't want to watch my rear blow out on a nice launch. I saw the results of my friend doing it...pretty ugly.

Maybe no need for HE now..but, I sure would not mod the hell out of it..then go back and do it....I would power mod, then He, then back to power mods.

No problem kilroy...it's these types of things that help those out there asking... :thumbsup:

cobra330
06-30-2005, 07:57 PM
You'll be sorry? It's as exactly as I said. Been there done that. The man won't frag his motor by having a less effecient H/E with those bolt-ons...

If for a minute you think IAT2 won't pull timing you're misinformed. The PCM saves your motor, NOT the H/E.


Yes I know it will pull timing..I just know..I feel ALOT of heat from my car..before changes..I can only imagine the heat now that the blower is spinning like freaking crazy. I think a 2.80 with 4lb lower is around 55,000rpm on the blower...that's spinning the bejeezus out of it.

kilroy
07-01-2005, 11:19 AM
Maybe no need for HE now..but, I sure would not mod the hell out of it..then go back and do it....I would power mod, then He, then back to power mods. I followed that recipe to a T and just about to install the Whipple & its supporting mods. I installed the H/E just after the Feb Track Day @Jackson this year - well over a year since being pullied and can honestly state zero issues from my setup. My car is a daily driver with 30k miles on the odo with 20k of it pullied/tuned. I have friends with similar setups that have yet to swap H/Es. At the same time I personally have suggested the H/E mod to guys about to get their blowers ported & upper/lower combos. The setup you suggested to BOOMER23 I too would recommend the H/E. But that's not what BOOMER23 is after right now I don't think. I don't think he needs a H/E now, but fully agree it should be next on his list. Again, sorry to have come off so negatively, Mike. The way I read your posts, my motor should have expired sometime last year. It's still kickin' pretty good & about to get downright nasty.

Since you brought up half-shafts, I have not seen cracks on my half-shafts and ran all 2004 (every 6 weeks or more often)... in Febuary '05 I switched from BFGs to MT E/T street (bias,not DR). My launch went up to ~5k (due to bogging) & the shafts are still holding. I did install the IRS brace at that time and will go to DSS level 5s after the Whipple is on. I've heard aquaintences bustin' shafts with OEMs on the street more so than with drag rubber at the strip although I'm sure it happens. Wheel hop is a bad, bad thing.


:cheers: