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Big T
07-13-2005, 12:48 AM
To start, I noticed some oil like droplets in my coolant a few months ago after I changed my coolant hoses. I did not bleed the system after I changed the hoses (I now know I should have). My car has been running fine since. This past weekend, I took it in to get the coolant system flushed and on the way home my car started to heat up fast. I pulled over and had coolant spewing out of the reservoir. I didn't let the engine get too hot( about 3/4 towards hot). I managed to get my car home after letting it cool and adding more coolant. I have never had any trouble with overheating prior to this. I don't know if the shop did something wrong or if it was a coincidence. I was doing some research and I just noticed tonight that I have some air bubbling in the coolant when I hit the gas in neutral and this may be a bad sign. How bad does this sound? I have pullied the car and know my warranty is garbage by now. I'm in New Orleans and they don't have any good shops around that work on cobras that I know of. Any advise?

BOOMER23
07-13-2005, 04:55 PM
Im no expert by any means but when I have read of these overheating problems such as this I have heard that it is very very important when adding new coolant that you pour very very slowly and burp the system so as to make absolutely sure that you will not have any air bubbles in the system at all, not to scare you but I read of a guy who didnt notice his overheating and by the time he realized it, it was too late and had a warped head and it was a disaster, so lets avoid that at all costs and make sure this is done right. Again dont trust me completely Ive never even changed the coolant in mine this is just something I remember reading about a fellow forum members car a while back, and also hearing others with air bubbles causing these overheating issues, whatever you do, do not drive it. I dont wanna hear about engine tradgedy! Not to scare ya just be safe man! Im sure the other more knowledgeable guys will pitch in too

Ashton

Big T
07-13-2005, 10:53 PM
Thanks for the input. I haven't driven my car since the episode. I think the stock reservoir now has a leak around the outer lip. A new canton reservoir tank is in the way. I'm going to bleed the system of air and tow it to a shop and test the system for leaks. I'm not taking any chances. I'm hoping it was just the air in my system and no other damage was done. I don't have any coolant in my oil (that I can see) or white exhaust cloud which may indicate a gasket problem. I have the blue dot on my engine which indicates I should not have the defective heads. If anyone has any other suggestions, let me know.

BOOMER23
07-14-2005, 12:47 AM
good plan of action, sounds like the way to go, only thing that comes to mind is this new tank from canton sounds cool but if you are still holding on to your warranty this might make the ford folks say no this is thats the case, if you have already said goodbye to the warranty go for it, if not just a thought. I know ive heard they are finicky as hell.

Big T
07-14-2005, 10:02 PM
My warranty is in the history books. I'm going to take my time with this one. If I have any major problems, I may use this as an opportunity to make some more aggressive modifications besides just the pulley, exhaust, etc...

ausie
07-18-2005, 12:20 AM
small oil droplets I have seen them, but only in the green coolant. I have yet to see that in the yellow stuff that is in my 04.

To fill coolant when you change something, including the Canton expansion tank, before you start, warm up the engine a bit, then shut it down. This is only to expand the plumbing around the bleeder hole (plug at top of the black coolant passage with the square notch in it, located on the dirvers side feed). If it is cold, you will snap the socket extention, if it is warm, it will take some effort but do not over do it or you will snap the tool in half (I have done that before). When you let coolant out, just filling up through the expansion tank (plastic resivior) will not displace the air left in the block. You must add coolant through the bleeder hole. I am willing to bet that when you drove your car back from the shop, the passenger side of the radiator was super hot and the dirvers side was ice cold. I had that too, due to trapped air in the heads. If you flush the coolant or change any parts, hoses, etc.... first thing I take off is the bleeder plug after the car has cooled down a bit from the first warm up. It is possible to warp the heads if there is trapped air in the system, also, if there is insufficiant coolant in the system the temperature guage will not operate properly.

Big T
07-18-2005, 01:01 AM
small oil droplets I have seen them, but only in the green coolant. I have yet to see that in the yellow stuff that is in my 04.

To fill coolant when you change something, including the Canton expansion tank, before you start, warm up the engine a bit, then shut it down. This is only to expand the plumbing around the bleeder hole (plug at top of the black coolant passage with the square notch in it, located on the dirvers side feed). If it is cold, you will snap the socket extention, if it is warm, it will take some effort but do not over do it or you will snap the tool in half (I have done that before). When you let coolant out, just filling up through the expansion tank (plastic resivior) will not displace the air left in the block. You must add coolant through the bleeder hole. I am willing to bet that when you drove your car back from the shop, the passenger side of the radiator was super hot and the dirvers side was ice cold. I had that too, due to trapped air in the heads. If you flush the coolant or change any parts, hoses, etc.... first thing I take off is the bleeder plug after the car has cooled down a bit from the first warm up. It is possible to warp the heads if there is trapped air in the system, also, if there is insufficiant coolant in the system the temperature guage will not operate properly.



Thanks for the input. I'm waiting for my canton tank to arrive tuesday. I'm going to fill it up and see how my car runs. Luckily I found a place locally that does some cobra work if needed. They dyno tune, repair, and are about to start kenne bell installations. I did try to loosen the screw yesterday when the engine was cold without success. I used good judgement (for once) and stopped trying before I ripped the pipe in half. I'm ready to get my car rolling again soon. I just hope there isn't any internal damage.

ausie
07-18-2005, 07:17 AM
It has to be warmed up, but not hot. Since the plug forms a good seal, I have used both channel locks and a 1/4 socket wrench to get it moved. Breaking it free is the hard part. Channel locks will damage the powder coat on the flange of the plug. Instead of pushing with all your might, do it in stages (an impact wrench would probably work the best, or put a small diameter pipe on the wrench handle to get some more leverage and slowly add pressure and back off and repeat). It will be next to impossible to open that up when cold.

Big T
07-26-2005, 11:49 PM
well i've been doing some research and think i have an air pocket in my coolant system. The oil change place must have really done a crappy job. I'm going to reflush my system, fill in at the air bleed screw, and get a new thermostat just in case. I have a few questions

1). what coolant do i need to use?

2). how much coolant does the radiator hold?

3). Where is the thermostat located?

ausie
07-27-2005, 08:01 AM
The stat is located in a small aluminum housing in the shape of a knuckle which is held together by two screws. To locate it, follow the hose attached to the bottom of the resivior tank just below the cap. There are two main hoses that attatch to it as well which suspends the housing in front of the engine. That is a goofy spot for it but that is where it is. Don't forget a new "o" ring too since the old one will probably wind up larger once you take it out. Just remember how it all comes out and reverse the assembly.

The cooling system holds about 7 quarts (the manual should have the exact specifications for fluid quantities listed in it somewhere) Stick with the color of coolant that came with the car, green for etheylene glycol or gold (for G5). Do not mix the two. The 04 models came with the G5 (gold, yellow) coolant but do not confuse that with the OAT (organic acid technology) which is orange since the cooling system was not designed for that chemical coolant. The resivior should have a color coded sticker on it and it probably has the same on the intercooler resivior. IF you have to mix it with water, do not use tap water, always use distilled water (and that is not expensive at all)

When removing the thermostat, do it at the time you are dumping the coolant out. Just allowing the pep-cock on the radiator to remove the coolant will not empty the block completely. Once all is closed up, radiator pep-cock and thermostat housing, Start filling the coolant at the resivior. When it begins to fill up, put the cap back on and begin to fill at the bleed plug on the "u" shaped pipe. When you cannot add anymore coolant, open the fill cap ( you will get some coolant to flow out, if the level in the U pipe dropps off add some more coolant. Close the bleed plug but do not over tighten since you will need to take it off after you start up and cool down the motor. Turn the heater up all the way and set the control for one of the vent locations on the control panel. Start up the engine, the cap for the resvior should be off, if the coolant level drops off, add a bit more while the engine is running at idel. If coolant begins to overflow, just close the cap. Wait until the thermostat opens (indicated by the fan turning on) then turn off the engine. Wait for things to cool down a bit, then remove the bleeder cap to add more coolant. Then repeat the start up and shut down. Also by squeezing the hose at the return will also get some air out. Once you have repeated the proces at least twice, top off the coolant and feel the radiator on the dirvers side. If it feels cold after you warmed up the motor, that indicates that there is still air in the block. If all seems well take a short test drive (you need to get the coolant up to operating temperature) it is possible the coolant will overflow during the test drive. Let it cool down, then top it off again by the bleeder plug only. Monitor the coolant level for the first few times you drive the car, it if drops add more coolant. The expansion tank is designed to degass the cooling system so that should be the place most of the air will end up, but only if there is sufficient amount of coolant in the entire system.

If anyone can add or edit the process please do so, I know how time consuming it is to bleed the coolant system, but so far this is the only way I was successful in doing just that.

Big T
07-27-2005, 07:34 PM
thanks alot!! I hope this works. I miss my car. I was just going to get ported.

ausie
07-31-2005, 11:35 AM
Any luck with the coolant issue? Hopefully things are running just fine. I would hate to learn about head gasket issues in the 03/04 models. As long as you do not see big blobs of floaters in the coolant, chances are it is just air trapped in the cooling system. If you are unsure if there is a head gasket issue, coolant can be tested for exhaust contaminants.

Big T
08-01-2005, 11:13 PM
I've been out of town and plan to work on my car this weekend. wish me luck!!

Big T
08-24-2005, 12:20 AM
I'm very excited today. I got my car fixed. No blown head gasket (I always assume the worst care scenario). It had a huge air pocket in it. I tried myself but I couldn't get the air bleed screw off. The mechanic said he had never seen so much air in a system. He had to add about 3 quarts of coolant! The place that changed my coolant before didn't get the air out and that is why I kept overheating. I'm just glad no damage was done. I had a great drive this afternoon for about 45 minutes.

dewone
08-24-2005, 09:11 AM
Bid T glad to see you got that done with out damage. Cudos to ausie for such a detailed proceedure. Thats a future referance keeper.