Registered for CMP and have brake line question

[tnturbo]

I was reading through the event packet and notice that braided lines are required on 96-98 Cobras due to the failures of these at track events. My car does not have braided lines however FRPP used to sell a severe duty brake upgrade for the 96+ cars I don't recall the part number but can find it. Basically this kit consisted of the factory Brembo rotors and the factory brake lines from a 99+ model Cobra. This is what is installed on my car. Will this be acceptable? The lines are clearly different from the 96-98 lines. If the 99+ cars don't require braided lines, I can't see how my car with the exact same parts would require them either

[johnbasf]

The 99 and up lines are ok. Braided is better if you want to do more open tracking. Try rigging up some cooling ducts for the weekend. Craig Mathis can help you with a cheap fix on the ducting.

[Mystic_Cobra]

I decided to add a little comment since this is a common question on an important issue. The 94-98 lines had rubber all the way to the caliper. They got too hot on SOME Cobras that were used AT THE TRACK WITH performance pads. They have not failed on the street or under less severe use. The 99+ lines have a hard steel section that spaces the rubber out from the caliper a little. These and the 99+ Brembo rotors are a good upgrade.
I, like John, have the braided steel lines.

Jimmy

[2KWhiteSnake]

Originally posted by johnbasf
The 99 and up lines are ok. Braided is better if you want to do more open tracking. Try rigging up some cooling ducts for the weekend. Craig Mathis can help you with a cheap fix on the ducting.

I went with Stainless lines myself on my 01. It's just a great bit of insurance, especially at CMP, which is HELL on brakes (ask PoolMan who's 03 lines exploded at CMP last year). I went to stainless lines and a racing brake fluid and still boiled over going into turn 8, which is NOT where you want to lose your brakes. I just got lucky I didn't end up in the woods. We're talking serious brake heat at CMP, so you need to be prepared. I bought 3 inch Aluminum dryer duct for my 01. Zip ties and duct tape did the trick. Most important though is a good flush of Motul Super blue of Ford Motorsport DOT3 before the event. Either will do I think. My cooling ducts set me back about $6, which was MORE than worth it. I stayed totally cool my next weekend out on track.

If you have any questions feel free to private message me or email me at cmathis@infoave.net.

Craig

[flynfink]

Originally posted by 2KWhiteSnake
I went with Stainless lines myself on my 01. It's just a great bit of insurance, especially at CMP, which is HELL on brakes (ask PoolMan who's 03 lines exploded at CMP last year). I went to stainless lines and a racing brake fluid and still boiled over going into turn 8, which is NOT where you want to lose your brakes. I just got lucky I didn't end up in the woods. We're talking serious brake heat at CMP, so you need to be prepared. I bought 3 inch Aluminum dryer duct for my 01. Zip ties and duct tape did the trick. Most important though is a good flush of Motul Super blue of Ford Motorsport DOT3 before the event. Either will do I think. My cooling ducts set me back about $6, which was MORE than worth it. I stayed totally cool my next weekend out on track.

If you have any questions feel free to private message me or email me at cmathis@infoave.net.

Craig

Just a clarification, Poolmans brake lines were SS aftermarkets. I was in the car when the right let go.. severe pucker factor..

A good bleed as Craig said is critical, I did a complete fluid change with Val. Synth. and had no problems w/ my 99.

[Cobra-R]

Originally posted by flynfink
Just a clarification, Poolmans brake lines were SS aftermarkets. I was in the car when the right let go.. severe pucker factor..

Was the cause ever discovered, Jeff?

The most common thing I see with people adding SS lines failing is from the line rubbing on the tire from improper installation. Just curious.

Brian

[flynfink]

Correct, a rim mounted wheel weight was hitting the line on every revolution, eventually cutting into it and causing no brakes after the fastest straight (of course) and us to go straight off into the dirt..

[cobrabitn]

I think you all are scaring Jeff M.

Jeff, the best thing to do is change pads and bring your old set with you in case you need to change them out. 99 lines will be okay to use since the 99's didn't have that problem. As suggested, change fluid and bring the extra with you. Many people will have tools and can help you if you need it.

You should take it easy the first time out and try to observe and absorb as much knowledge as you can without worrying about how fast you can go. By the end of Sunday, you will know a lot more about your vehicle and will have a big smile on your face, believe me.

We'll even let Will instruct you so you will learn how to dig yourself out of a hole.

[Hazman]

I would not be to worried about scaring Jeff there Tony. He is an avid autocrosser and East TN ridge runner. If you will remember this past years Dragon Run. He was with the "accelerated" medium group on the way out and right in the mix of the fast group on the way back. And that was with his car setup for drag racing with on rollbar loose and the other removed.

The concern we have on brakes comes from hearing horror stories from the Porsche guys here in East TN about how CMP eats brakes like no other track in the country!!

I am bringing extra pads/rotors and installing brake cooling duct myself. Was also thinking about some of those Cobalt froxen rotors. How long does it take to thaw them out at CMP??

[tnturbo]

My biggest fear is getting there and getting turned away at tech I suspected the 99+ lines would be okay, but wanted to clarify the fact while there was still time to change lines. I'm going to try and install some cooling ducts between now and then.

I also used to race the local dirt tracks (shhh don't tell anyone but I drove a Chevy). That was just a continuous left hand turn though

I'm really looking forward to this event.