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Old 07-07-2007, 10:55 PM   #1
venomous
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Very frustrating Alternator problem

Well my stock alternator took a dump. So off to advance i go and buy a rebuilt Palladium alternator along with a brand new optima red top. I swapped ALT. pulleys since the pulley that came with the other alternators were larger and I was afraid (since I have boost) I would change my tune. After installing, I realize that my battery gauge was still really low. So I drive back to advance and turns out that I burnt up the alternator and killed the optima battery. So they get me new of each and prob 30 mins later the new alternator fried again. So now I have a brand new powermaster (chrome) on the way. So why do I keep frying the alternators? I really need to get this figured out before I put in the powermaster. Thanks and God Bless. Andrew
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2.2 Kenne Bell Blowzilla/ Flowzilla Supercharger (12# Boost), AFR 165 Aluminum Heads 61cc, TMoss Port Matched Cobra Lower, Trickflow 1.7 Roller Rockers, Crane 2031 Camshaft, 3/8" Intake Spacer, 60# Injectors, Accufab 75mm Throttle Body w/ Blank Spacer, DynoJet Wideband Commander, MSD Pro Billet Distributor, MSD Blaster Coil, SCT Big Mouth Meter BAF 2400, JLT Custom Cold Air intake, Deleted EGR/ Smog, Mac Chrome Radiator Pipes, Mac Ceramic Coated Shorty Headers, Mac O/R H-Pipe, Flowmaster Cat-Back, Pro 5.0 Shifter, Ford Racing 3:73 Gears, H&R Sport Springs, Chrome Cobra R Wheels
Pro Dyno Tuned to 498 RWHP 497 RWTQ
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Old 07-10-2007, 03:05 PM   #2
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I've heard of this problem and if I recall it has something to do with the pulleys?
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Old 07-11-2007, 12:47 PM   #3
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Well, its at the dealership right now. They told me that they think its the 3 wire plug that goes into the back of the alternator. They also said that they though it was the alternator? I have went through 3 alternators so I know it can't be the new one. It was even tested before going on the car. We'll find out today though...hopefully.
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~1995 "Rio Red" Cobra #3379 of 4005
2.2 Kenne Bell Blowzilla/ Flowzilla Supercharger (12# Boost), AFR 165 Aluminum Heads 61cc, TMoss Port Matched Cobra Lower, Trickflow 1.7 Roller Rockers, Crane 2031 Camshaft, 3/8" Intake Spacer, 60# Injectors, Accufab 75mm Throttle Body w/ Blank Spacer, DynoJet Wideband Commander, MSD Pro Billet Distributor, MSD Blaster Coil, SCT Big Mouth Meter BAF 2400, JLT Custom Cold Air intake, Deleted EGR/ Smog, Mac Chrome Radiator Pipes, Mac Ceramic Coated Shorty Headers, Mac O/R H-Pipe, Flowmaster Cat-Back, Pro 5.0 Shifter, Ford Racing 3:73 Gears, H&R Sport Springs, Chrome Cobra R Wheels
Pro Dyno Tuned to 498 RWHP 497 RWTQ
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Old 07-12-2007, 02:04 PM   #4
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Where was the gauge reading?

Mine will read nice and high when I first start the car, and pretty much straight up when cruising, but when idling it reads way down by the N or O in normal. I have underdrive pullies, so I attribute it to that. What amperage is your powermaster that you have on the way? I am thinking the fix might be a heavy duty alternator, 210 amps... I hardly ever drive my cobra anymore though, so I have not gotten around to buying a new alternator to test it, let alone justify the expense...

Keep us posted on the issue...........
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Old 07-12-2007, 03:13 PM   #5
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Had the same problem once before, did you check all your fuses? You may have blown a fuse and that's what is causing the alternator to get fried.

Let us know how it works out.
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Old 07-12-2007, 09:14 PM   #6
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I broke down and took my car to the dealership. It took 3.5 straight hours for them to figure out the problem. It turned out to be the 3 wire plug that plugged into the back of the alternator. It had become corroded and what not. Also, they said that I had a bad ground. So they replaced the plug and relocated the ground. Problem fixed. total cost -1 hour labor (I have a friend ) $176.56
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~1995 "Rio Red" Cobra #3379 of 4005
2.2 Kenne Bell Blowzilla/ Flowzilla Supercharger (12# Boost), AFR 165 Aluminum Heads 61cc, TMoss Port Matched Cobra Lower, Trickflow 1.7 Roller Rockers, Crane 2031 Camshaft, 3/8" Intake Spacer, 60# Injectors, Accufab 75mm Throttle Body w/ Blank Spacer, DynoJet Wideband Commander, MSD Pro Billet Distributor, MSD Blaster Coil, SCT Big Mouth Meter BAF 2400, JLT Custom Cold Air intake, Deleted EGR/ Smog, Mac Chrome Radiator Pipes, Mac Ceramic Coated Shorty Headers, Mac O/R H-Pipe, Flowmaster Cat-Back, Pro 5.0 Shifter, Ford Racing 3:73 Gears, H&R Sport Springs, Chrome Cobra R Wheels
Pro Dyno Tuned to 498 RWHP 497 RWTQ
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Old 07-13-2007, 11:27 AM   #7
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This was a VERY common problem on Fox-body cars. The wires were undersized to start with, and cars that had lots of current draw (large stereos, etc) were even more prone to the problem. Keep a close eye on that connector, and keep it clean.
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