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Old 01-22-2009, 02:34 PM   #1
hauling4you
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NO start or crank, AGAIN

Here was my last problem with the no start no crank...
http://www.svtcobraclub.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=16543

Now its back again, my car was fine one second. Next only a clicking from the starter. I figured it was the starter again, I have no luck with rebuilt ones. Well today I finally got the starter off and tested it was fine, no problems at all. I reinstalled and still only get a clicking from the starter... I also noted that the battery was dead, really dead like 1.46 volts (car sat for approx 2 weeks). I rechaged the battery had it tested and it also is still fine, but only getting the clicking.

Guys HELP, give me ideas on where to start with this problem now.

So far I have:
Tested the starter- OK
Tested the battery/chaged- OK
Checked all grounds- OK
Checked all cables for cracks/rot- OK

Dave
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Old 01-22-2009, 08:34 PM   #2
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I don't understand how you can have 1.46 volts and the battery be fully charged?

My next question is do you have an aftermarket alarm or stereo? if so, you may want to check the wiring on it to see if it is grounding somewhere....
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Old 01-22-2009, 10:31 PM   #3
hauling4you
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The battery was charged up after I found it that way, then I tryed to start and nothing but the clicking. I have aftermarket stereo, but it is only the head unit nothing more.Dave
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Old 01-22-2009, 10:46 PM   #4
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Next question...when did you put the stereo in? It sounds like the stereo may be draining the battery

Bad voltage regulator in the alternator may also be the problem.
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1994 Rio Red Indy Pace Car #22 "Runabout"

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One SVT Cobra, one Shelby GT500, one 69 mach 1, and a Boss 302 is better than nothing!

Custom Data Plates for your Mustang or Ford!

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Old 01-23-2009, 03:06 AM   #5
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I had a similar problem with an old car years ago ... after much looking, turned put to be a loose connection from the wire coming from the ignition switch to the starter solenoid. There was enough voltage and current to make a clicking noise, but not a good enough connection to provide the power need to fully engage the solenoid. The crimp on spade lug on the wire was loose and not properly seated on the solenoid terminal.

You have probably already done this ... but, disconnect the battery and then check all of the connections to see if they are really tight.

I have an 01 Cobra as well, no starting issues to date and my car sits most of the time. Hope this helps.
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Old 01-23-2009, 03:15 AM   #6
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One other thought on the battery drain ... on a couple of occasions, I have accidently 'popped' the trunk with the remote and not noticed it at first. The trunk lid stays down on my car, but the lamp in the trunk comes on. I noticed this because when it was dark in the garage, it looked like the brake light in the trunk lid was faintly on. Turned out to be the trunk light shining through the lens! If left for a few days ... it would not take too long to drain a battery that way.
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Old 02-16-2009, 11:51 PM   #7
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troubleshooting advice

You need to break the problem down and start basic. Where are you measuring the voltage? How are you measuring it? You should put voltmeter probes directly into the battery terminals. You should see around 12.8 V with the engine off and around 14.2 with the engine running.
If you have this, then move further down the "line".
If you don't have this, you've found your problem.

Also, how long was the battery charged? Was it a slow charge or quick charge?
Start basic, take it one step at a time. Have you removed the battery terminals and cleaned them? Make sure they get tight. Most of the time, these problems are a loose or bad connection somewhere.
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Old 02-16-2009, 11:52 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cobrabitn
I don't understand how you can have 1.46 volts and the battery be fully charged?

My next question is do you have an aftermarket alarm or stereo? if so, you may want to check the wiring on it to see if it is grounding somewhere....
If you have 1.46 V after a full charge, the battery is bad or the volt meter is bad.
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Old 02-17-2009, 10:01 PM   #9
hauling4you
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Sorry it has taken me so long to repost this problem being SOLVED. the ground cable was bad this time. So I pretty much ripped out any cable attached to the battery or leading from the battery and every ground on the car and replaced the wire and the cable end. After this day of work she started right up.


Dave
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Old 02-17-2009, 10:36 PM   #10
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I had the same problem on the cables on my 92 GT. I was going to ask did you check the cables but you already stated you did. Glad you got it fixed!
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Stump Puller! 6.7 Diesel Automatic with Chrome Package, Off Road Package, 3.55 Locking axles, and Ultimate Lariat Interior Trim Package!

2013 Race Red Boss 302 Coupe - track car!

No mods yet!

2009 Vista Blue Shelby GT 500 Coupe - Garage Queen

Tinted Windows
JLT True Cold Air Kit
Pro-Dyno Tune
526 rwhp - 511 rwtq


1994 Rio Red Indy Pace Car #22 "Runabout"

Snake in the grill
MGW shift knob
1996 SVT Cobra Wheels


1969 New Lime Mustang Mach 1 Sportsroof - Second owner - bone stock with shaker.

One SVT Cobra, one Shelby GT500, one 69 mach 1, and a Boss 302 is better than nothing!

Custom Data Plates for your Mustang or Ford!

Buy "Cool Merchandise" at Data Plates Plus
www.dataplatesplus.com

See my MSR Video here!
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Old 02-17-2009, 10:58 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hauling4you
Sorry it has taken me so long to repost this problem being SOLVED. the ground cable was bad this time. So I pretty much ripped out any cable attached to the battery or leading from the battery and every ground on the car and replaced the wire and the cable end. After this day of work she started right up.

Dave
Glad to hear it! I've added an extra ground wire on both my Cobra (racecar) and my 65 Mustang coupe (LED taillights were hell to get working until I found a bad ground).
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