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Old 04-17-2002, 10:15 AM   #1
STANGBUM
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Question Need to "hook" now

With what I have done to SSSNAKE I need To hook it up,
Spins way too much.
Need a plan of action, can't afford everything at once, so how should I add to suspension as I go.
which or what to add first
I have been told upper and lower control arms first? Is this true or something else first?
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Autometer Phantom Fuel Pressure & Boost Gauge
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Kenny Brown Subs
MM Caster/Camber Plates
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Old 04-17-2002, 03:00 PM   #2
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It's been recommended to me by BADPNY, that a good set of adjustable upper control arms and a good set of lower control arms. Also, he recommended 25x11x15 ET DRAGs with a set of drag lites. I'm gonna go for that "bolt on" coil over rear kit that ground pounder makes. The price for the uppers and lowers are about the same as the coil over kit. There was an article in mm&ff or 50mustang and superford a few months ago that had the installation of the coil-over kit. Looked pretty cut and dry, so i'm gonna try it. It'll take me a few months before i can round up the $$ to do it. Dyno tune is next on my list.
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Old 04-20-2002, 03:33 PM   #3
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I just did the full steeda drag suspension: drag pak 1 & 2 plus frame connectors & crossbrace.

what a difference! on the #1 (drag) setting, the front lifts up, the rear digs in, and the car hooks. obviously, i still spin the wheels in first with the bridgestone RE730's and briefly break loose in 2nd but it is far better than before. when i get the nitto DR's on and heated, i expect to really launch hard. hope i get my 60 foots down from a best of 2.04 into the 1.8 range.

a side benefit is that at any speed, the sensation of weight transfer makes it feel much faster even if i already have traction. its a just a blast to drive!
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Old 05-13-2002, 11:13 AM   #4
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Yes, the inexpensive way to get hooked up in a straight line is to go with control arms. Steeda's drag setup mentioned is a pretty good start. I'd have to say the LCA's are more important first. When you go with a set of arms 1) stay with the same manufacturer for upper and lower - they make them to work together - bushing durometer rates are different and need to be designed to work with each other 2) be weary of super stiff, heim-joint style arms - they can tear up your torque boxes if you have the power to do so or thrash the car. Not all heim-jointed arms are bad, but there are some that are designed to be used with the reinforced torque boxes.

Now... if you want the rear suspension for the twisties, more suggestions could be made...
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Old 05-13-2002, 11:43 AM   #5
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Talking

Rule number one: lowering springs
Rule number two: drag radials.

These worked for me on my IRS Cobra!
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Old 05-13-2002, 11:56 AM   #6
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Rule number one won't do anything for traction... Also, he's got a 97, not one of those fancy IRS cars.
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Old 05-21-2002, 11:48 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally posted by svt_coupe
Yes, the inexpensive way to get hooked up in a straight line is to go with control arms. Steeda's drag setup mentioned is a pretty good start. I'd have to say the LCA's are more important first. When you go with a set of arms 1) stay with the same manufacturer for upper and lower - they make them to work together - bushing durometer rates are different and need to be designed to work with each other 2) be weary of super stiff, heim-joint style arms - they can tear up your torque boxes if you have the power to do so or thrash the car. Not all heim-jointed arms are bad, but there are some that are designed to be used with the reinforced torque boxes.

Now... if you want the rear suspension for the twisties, more suggestions could be made...
ok, so go with upper and lower control arms
so what brand would you reccomend for my set up
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1997 Cobra #3843
Born 3/18/97
2-chamber Flowmasters cat-back
Vortech S/C V2
MSD DIS4
Autometer Phantom Fuel Pressure & Boost Gauge
FMS 4:10 ring & pinion
Kenny Brown Subs
MM Caster/Camber Plates
Eibach Pro Kit
Pro 5.0 shifter
401 RWHP & 396 TORQUE
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Old 05-21-2002, 01:24 PM   #8
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This is for straight line stuff? Handling?

Either way, Maximum Motorsports and Steeda are both good choices. They have slightly different approaches to suspension theory as far as replacing or keeping the stock UCA bushings on the rear axle housing. I replaced mine and went with Steeda's polyurethane bushings and have been happy with them. Some say that these promote bind, but I have yet to have any real problems with them (beyond what the normal 4-link, "stock" setup will give you).

I'm sure some will disagree... but Steeda is probably the king of "control arm only" suspensions (meaning, if you aren't going the Panhard bar/Torque arm route). They have a variety of different arms with different bushing rates for different applications. Then again, Maximum Motorsports does too.

There are others out there as well that are very competent too. The ever-popular Griggs is a choice too... HPM.... etc
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Old 05-21-2002, 02:10 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally posted by svt_coupe
This is for straight line stuff? Handling?

Either way, Maximum Motorsports and Steeda are both good choices. They have slightly different approaches to suspension theory as far as replacing or keeping the stock UCA bushings on the rear axle housing. I replaced mine and went with Steeda's polyurethane bushings and have been happy with them. Some say that these promote bind, but I have yet to have any real problems with them (beyond what the normal 4-link, "stock" setup will give you).

I'm sure some will disagree... but Steeda is probably the king of "control arm only" suspensions (meaning, if you aren't going the Panhard bar/Torque arm route). They have a variety of different arms with different bushing rates for different applications. Then again, Maximum Motorsports does too.

There are others out there as well that are very competent too. The ever-popular Griggs is a choice too... HPM.... etc
mostly straight line
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1997 Cobra #3843
Born 3/18/97
2-chamber Flowmasters cat-back
Vortech S/C V2
MSD DIS4
Autometer Phantom Fuel Pressure & Boost Gauge
FMS 4:10 ring & pinion
Kenny Brown Subs
MM Caster/Camber Plates
Eibach Pro Kit
Pro 5.0 shifter
401 RWHP & 396 TORQUE
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Old 05-21-2002, 03:15 PM   #10
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I have read in some other threads that Steeda is not easy to deal with.
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1997 Cobra #3843
Born 3/18/97
2-chamber Flowmasters cat-back
Vortech S/C V2
MSD DIS4
Autometer Phantom Fuel Pressure & Boost Gauge
FMS 4:10 ring & pinion
Kenny Brown Subs
MM Caster/Camber Plates
Eibach Pro Kit
Pro 5.0 shifter
401 RWHP & 396 TORQUE
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Old 05-21-2002, 03:16 PM   #11
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any kind of deal with Maximum Motorsports?
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1997 Cobra #3843
Born 3/18/97
2-chamber Flowmasters cat-back
Vortech S/C V2
MSD DIS4
Autometer Phantom Fuel Pressure & Boost Gauge
FMS 4:10 ring & pinion
Kenny Brown Subs
MM Caster/Camber Plates
Eibach Pro Kit
Pro 5.0 shifter
401 RWHP & 396 TORQUE
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Old 05-21-2002, 03:19 PM   #12
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what would I need after conrol arms?
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1997 Cobra #3843
Born 3/18/97
2-chamber Flowmasters cat-back
Vortech S/C V2
MSD DIS4
Autometer Phantom Fuel Pressure & Boost Gauge
FMS 4:10 ring & pinion
Kenny Brown Subs
MM Caster/Camber Plates
Eibach Pro Kit
Pro 5.0 shifter
401 RWHP & 396 TORQUE
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