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Old 01-22-2013, 05:47 PM   #1
95cobraR
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Vintage racing/Vintage street an old Mustang

Or, how to build an old Mustang.

First, you should start with a good chasiss:




Then add some good brakes.


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Old 01-22-2013, 06:01 PM   #2
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Note the car on the lift with no front cooling ducts and the one with big ducts (big = works well; small = don't work).

Then you add a 289/302.


This is the Ford Sportsman block with a big oil pan and off-the-counter aluminum heads.

The old-style Shelby lowering trick works well. Mr. Shelby invented it in 1965. Then you add brake cooling ducts.





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Old 01-22-2013, 06:29 PM   #3
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It's a race car. Mine has two fuel pumps (one primary, one for problems; never run two at once).

I like using the Shelby rear fuel entry and the factory rear bumper:


It works. IMO, the main thing is to finish every race and see every green flag. Yes ,the rear of the hood is raised. It serves a purpose as it allows air to run thru the radiator/oil cooler and into the engine compartment and then escape. Shelby also invented this.


You can see the oil cooler. It is the biggest one in the catalog. It's also the best insurance policy against engine failure.
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Old 01-22-2013, 06:32 PM   #4
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It's not hard around here to hit the picture limit.



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Old 01-23-2013, 09:19 AM   #5
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I really appreciate you posting those pics.
1. Looks like 4-piston front and single piston rear brakes. The rears looks like off-the-shelf PBR/Baer calipers. What are you running on the front? What diameter rotors? I plan to use the SN95 Cobra brakes on mine. So, 13" 2-piston front/11.65" single piston rear.
2. Cooling ducts...I have the same front valence on my car. I had always assumed the 2" round holes near the radiator opening were for brake ducts. Did you try using them first?
3. What size tires? Are tires and/or wheels limited by club rules?
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Old 01-23-2013, 12:37 PM   #6
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Jimmy,
1. Those are Lincoln brakes in the front (i.e., brakes used on the big Lincoln in the 1960's). It's due to the rules. Cobra Automotive sells a kit. I think the front rotors are 11" (15" wheel). Yep, the rear disk is a Corvette/PBR.
2. Yea, the smaller holes just didn't work. Cobra Automotive also makes the kit that includes the intake, hoses, brackets. The caliper also has a bracket that the hose is clamped to (very effective).
3. Tires are Hoosier TD (bias belted) 225-60-15, Hoosier TD 25.5-8.5-15, or Goodyear Blue Dot 6.00 X 16 by the rules. No radials allowed.

Some guys use a Brembo brake (a Porsche design), the same air duct, and larger rear tires (Goodyear 7.00 x 15). That bumps up a class.
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Old 01-23-2013, 02:39 PM   #7
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Good info, thanks.

Whose rules did you have to follow for the cage? Since I plan to drive my car on the street, I want to have something between a 4-pt bar and a full 8-pt cage but I haven't gotten into any specifics yet.
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Old 01-23-2013, 03:10 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mystic_Cobra View Post
Whose rules did you have to follow for the cage?
None.

They don't have rollbar/cage rules in vintage racing because many of the historic cars have less than proper rollbars. If you cut the cage out of a old SCCA T/A car to install a modern one, you would hurt its value.

Some vintage cars, like a Lola T70, really have no rollbar. They weigh 1400 lbs. and have 700 Hp.

My cage was built by a proffessional race shop, but no tech guy has ever checked it. Some cars have a 4-point rollbar.

Lola T70 Coupe:
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Old 01-24-2013, 09:47 AM   #9
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That's kinda scary but I guess it's your head (not you the other guys).
That Lola is a sexy machine!
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Old 01-24-2013, 11:46 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mystic_Cobra View Post
That's kinda scary.
I agree.

One thing about vintage is there is a significant difference in lap times in a group. So, you aren't racing around the track for several laps bunched in with a dozen cars.

Sebring, 3 hour enduro race start (I'm in the back, got lapped 6-8 times ):


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Old 01-25-2013, 12:33 AM   #11
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Very nice pics, keep sharing!
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Old 01-25-2013, 01:23 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cobrabitn View Post
Very nice pics, keep sharing!
I have pictures.

Racing is racing. Some tracks, like VIR, can cause problems if you miss the apex by 6".

VIR is all about precision in hitting every corner well. You should have experience here and then listen very carefully to your instructor. Bruce is the guy that you need to listen to.

It's fast here, real fast. Just one little mistake can be a problem....Here:







You don't want to screw up here. Please listen in the drivers meeting.
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Old 01-27-2013, 08:40 PM   #13
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I have to ask...what happened and where exactly?
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Old 01-29-2013, 05:38 PM   #14
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Quote:
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I have to ask...what happened and where exactly?
That is VIR before they paved the paddock.

He was coming from Oak Tree down the back straight when he stabbed the brakes. A rotor exploded (the LF) and took out the caliper which broke the brake line.

He walked away (or I wouldn't post it), and then rebuilt the car (with another body).



This was at Daytona where the car, after the rebuild, qualified on the pole and won the race.

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Old 01-29-2013, 05:46 PM   #15
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Do you remember Road America a couple of years later?





There is a Camaro on the bottom of this. It had won the award for the "Best Restored Race Car" the night before. No one was hurt.
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