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Old 09-07-2003, 02:20 PM   #1
Aaron94
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Proper clutch adjustment

I have a steeda adjustable clutch quad, and i am wondering the correct way to adjust it? its the non firewall model, so i will be working on the clutch fork end. my guess is just back it all the way off, and then just snug it on the fork? any info is appreciated.
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1994 Rio Red Coupe #3564

304 ci, GT40X Aluminum Heads, Extrude Honed and Polished intake, Motorsport F303 cam, vortech fuel rails, 77 mm Pro-M mass air, 70mm BBK T-Body, Smog pump deletion, MSD and Perfomance distributors ignition components, Tremec 3550, Steeda Tri-axe, King Cobra/Centerforce clutch, Custom 3" Alum Driveshaft, 3.55 Gears, Griggs rear suspension w/torque arm & pan hard bar, Koni Red Shocks/Struts
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Old 09-07-2003, 10:58 PM   #2
Black Snake
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Steeda adjustable clutch quad??

Do you mean the adjustable clutch cable? Or the firewall adjuster? The firewall adjuster is the best bet because it is easy to use. With the adjustable cable you have to raise the car to make your adjustments and then lower the car to test. A PIA if you ask me.
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93 Cobra: Vortech S-Trim, ARF 165ís, TFS Stage I cam, 42# injectors, Kirban AFPR, Pro-M 80, AFM Power Pipe, MSD 6BTM, MSD Blaster Coil, fuel pressure and boost gauges, 255 Walbro in-tank pump, T-Rex, 130 amp 3G alt, Fluidyne radiator, Mark VIII fan, 1 5/8" JBA unequal length shorties, Bassani off-road X-pipe and cat-back, Maximum Motorsports Caster Camber Plates, D&D tubular K-member & coil overs, Tokico Illumina shocks/struts, Global West LCAs, 3.73 gears, Pro-5.0 shifter, Winger letters

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Old 09-08-2003, 01:09 PM   #3
Aaron94
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yea the adjustable cable, with new quadrant, minus the firewall adjuster. yes it requires raising the car. anyone know proper adjustment techniques?
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1994 Rio Red Coupe #3564

304 ci, GT40X Aluminum Heads, Extrude Honed and Polished intake, Motorsport F303 cam, vortech fuel rails, 77 mm Pro-M mass air, 70mm BBK T-Body, Smog pump deletion, MSD and Perfomance distributors ignition components, Tremec 3550, Steeda Tri-axe, King Cobra/Centerforce clutch, Custom 3" Alum Driveshaft, 3.55 Gears, Griggs rear suspension w/torque arm & pan hard bar, Koni Red Shocks/Struts
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Old 09-08-2003, 11:03 PM   #4
Black Snake
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http://www.steeda.com/instructions/doublehook.htm

I highly recommend removing the drivers seat (place a trick towel over the studs for the seat brackets) to give you some extra room to crawl under the dash. That quadrant is a major PIA. :cussing: Other than that it's an easy job.
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Rob Maurer
93 Cobra: Vortech S-Trim, ARF 165ís, TFS Stage I cam, 42# injectors, Kirban AFPR, Pro-M 80, AFM Power Pipe, MSD 6BTM, MSD Blaster Coil, fuel pressure and boost gauges, 255 Walbro in-tank pump, T-Rex, 130 amp 3G alt, Fluidyne radiator, Mark VIII fan, 1 5/8" JBA unequal length shorties, Bassani off-road X-pipe and cat-back, Maximum Motorsports Caster Camber Plates, D&D tubular K-member & coil overs, Tokico Illumina shocks/struts, Global West LCAs, 3.73 gears, Pro-5.0 shifter, Winger letters

02 Corvette Z06: LG Pro Long Tubes, GHL Catback
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Old 09-09-2003, 04:08 PM   #5
Aaron94
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its already installed, but thanks for the link, i will follow the last instruction on there.
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1994 Rio Red Coupe #3564

304 ci, GT40X Aluminum Heads, Extrude Honed and Polished intake, Motorsport F303 cam, vortech fuel rails, 77 mm Pro-M mass air, 70mm BBK T-Body, Smog pump deletion, MSD and Perfomance distributors ignition components, Tremec 3550, Steeda Tri-axe, King Cobra/Centerforce clutch, Custom 3" Alum Driveshaft, 3.55 Gears, Griggs rear suspension w/torque arm & pan hard bar, Koni Red Shocks/Struts
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