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Old 10-19-2004, 04:45 PM   #1
SVTCobra96
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cams and heads

i have a 95 5.0 and i want cams and heads whats the best cams and heads to get and how much will they run give me some prices thanks
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Old 10-20-2004, 08:40 AM   #2
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The 1st thing you need to figure out is what you want out of the car & what the intended purpose of the car would be, racing (drag or open track, daily driver, weekend warrior). Is emmissions a concern? Power level wanting? If you are wanting 400 rwhp, then just heads & cam won't get you there, need more cubic inches = stroker or power adder.
If it were me, I would get AFR heads. They are the popular choice & make the most power. MM&FF did a head comparison and the AFR came out on top every time in each of their catigories. AFR has different heads for different applications. The 165's are good street heads. The 185's are geared more toward a larger motor or stroker motor or one with power adder, NOS or boost of some kind. Then they have the 205's, pretty much a race head. It will depend on what you want the car to do, track car, daily driver or weekend car. This also holds true for the cam. The 94\95's seem to have issues with cams, not idleing right, surging. To get the most power a custom cam is the best route to go. Have heard good things about the Crane 2031, which was made for the Cobras 1.7 rocker arms. Our cars like a lot of lobe seperation to idle correctly, which the 2031 has. Might want to consider porting the stock Cobra intake or getting a afermarket one also while it is apart.
AFR heads are a little more money than the other head, Trick flow, Edelbrock, Holley, but they do make the most power. AFR heads run around $1300, where as you can get Trick flow heads for around $1000, Edlebrock are a little more around $1100. Cams usually run around $200 or more for custom cam. Intake is around $500. Not sure on cost of install, I'd guess on the high side of around 750 to 1000. Might even need a dyno tune also.
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Old 10-20-2004, 07:16 PM   #3
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well its my daily driver but i want the cams and heads that produce the best hp and performace increase i like to run her hard not constantly but here and there and i want stuff that can handle it when i need to get up and go anyway thanks for ur input
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Old 10-20-2004, 07:17 PM   #4
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and emissions isnt a concern
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Old 10-20-2004, 10:15 PM   #5
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i looked them up i really like the AFR 205cc SBF Race Head its for street/strip which is what im lookin for
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Old 10-21-2004, 08:43 AM   #6
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Unless you stroke, rev to the moon or go 351, the 205's will be overkill, biggest is not always best. You will loose low end torque with them. The 185's would be a better choice without loosing a lot of low end torque & still get the hp up there. Too much of a head will loose low rpm velocity, which is what makes tq. You need to match the heads to the cam to the intake.
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Old 10-23-2004, 11:42 AM   #7
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Cam Question

I am running the Crane 2031 now. I will be going to the Nov 6 Fall Drag day so depending on how embarrasing my times are I will let you know. I just rebuilt the engine and only have about 6 hours on it. I am still messing with the idle. The cam is very streetable. I did not have any surging problems. My problems was the engine would not idle at all. I had to drive with two feet and the parking brake, only at stop signs. The engine idles now but lingers at 1200 rpm and slowly comes down to 800 rpm.
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Old 10-23-2004, 02:35 PM   #8
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I have GT 40X heads, ported/extrude honed cobra intake, and the FMS F303 cam. It sounds like an old muscle car at idle, nice and lopey. I used to have idle issues, mostly with hot start up. You need to have the car dyno tuned with a custom chip. it makes all the difference, a good tuner should be able to get the car to idle well. You will want to get the dyno tune done with any combination anyway, to maximize your performance. My car was running REALLY rich before the tune, maybe that contributes to idle issues with the big cams?
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304 ci, GT40X Aluminum Heads, Extrude Honed and Polished intake, Motorsport F303 cam, vortech fuel rails, 77 mm Pro-M mass air, 70mm BBK T-Body, Smog pump deletion, MSD and Perfomance distributors ignition components, Tremec 3550, Steeda Tri-axe, King Cobra/Centerforce clutch, Custom 3" Alum Driveshaft, 3.55 Gears, Griggs rear suspension w/torque arm & pan hard bar, Koni Red Shocks/Struts
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Old 10-23-2004, 03:58 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron94
I have GT 40X heads, ported/extrude honed cobra intake, and the FMS F303 cam. It sounds like an old muscle car at idle, nice and lopey. I used to have idle issues, mostly with hot start up. You need to have the car dyno tuned with a custom chip. it makes all the difference, a good tuner should be able to get the car to idle well. You will want to get the dyno tune done with any combination anyway, to maximize your performance. My car was running REALLY rich before the tune, maybe that contributes to idle issues with the big cams?
How much HP does your car have, Aaron?
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2.2 Kenne Bell Blowzilla/ Flowzilla Supercharger (12# Boost), AFR 165 Aluminum Heads 61cc, TMoss Port Matched Cobra Lower, Trickflow 1.7 Roller Rockers, Crane 2031 Camshaft, 3/8" Intake Spacer, 60# Injectors, Accufab 75mm Throttle Body w/ Blank Spacer, DynoJet Wideband Commander, MSD Pro Billet Distributor, MSD Blaster Coil, SCT Big Mouth Meter BAF 2400, JLT Custom Cold Air intake, Deleted EGR/ Smog, Mac Chrome Radiator Pipes, Mac Ceramic Coated Shorty Headers, Mac O/R H-Pipe, Flowmaster Cat-Back, Pro 5.0 Shifter, Ford Racing 3:73 Gears, H&R Sport Springs, Chrome Cobra R Wheels
Pro Dyno Tuned to 498 RWHP 497 RWTQ
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Old 10-23-2004, 04:05 PM   #10
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280 HP 295 torque to the wheels. .020 overbore, so its a 304 now. MSD distributor, and underdrive pullies to come soon, with another tune. The peak numbers aren't all that impressive, but the torque is almost at peak and flat from 3,000 rpm up.
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304 ci, GT40X Aluminum Heads, Extrude Honed and Polished intake, Motorsport F303 cam, vortech fuel rails, 77 mm Pro-M mass air, 70mm BBK T-Body, Smog pump deletion, MSD and Perfomance distributors ignition components, Tremec 3550, Steeda Tri-axe, King Cobra/Centerforce clutch, Custom 3" Alum Driveshaft, 3.55 Gears, Griggs rear suspension w/torque arm & pan hard bar, Koni Red Shocks/Struts
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Old 12-17-2004, 06:22 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cobrapace94
The 1st thing you need to figure out is what you want out of the car & what the intended purpose of the car would be, racing (drag or open track, daily driver, weekend warrior). Is emmissions a concern? Power level wanting? If you are wanting 400 rwhp, then just heads & cam won't get you there, need more cubic inches = stroker or power adder.
The 165's are good street heads. The 185's are geared more toward a larger motor or stroker motor or one with power adder, NOS or boost of some kind. Then they have the 205's, pretty much a race head. It will depend on what you want the car to do, track car, daily driver or weekend car. This also holds true for the cam. The 94\95's seem to have issues with cams, not idleing right, surging. To get the most power a custom cam is the best route to go. Have heard good things about the Crane 2031, which was made for the Cobras 1.7 rocker arms. Our cars like a lot of lobe seperation to idle correctly, which the 2031 has. Might want to consider porting the stock Cobra intake or getting a afermarket one also while it is apart.
AFR heads are a little more money than the other head, Trick flow, Edelbrock, Holley, but they do make the most power. AFR heads run around $1300, where as you can get Trick flow heads for around $1000, Edlebrock are a little more around $1100. Cams usually run around $200 or more for custom cam. Intake is around $500. Not sure on cost of install, I'd guess on the high side of around 750 to 1000. Might even need a dyno tune also.
Quote:
Originally Posted by cobrapace94
The 1st thing you need to figure out is what you want out of the car & what the intended purpose of the car would be, racing (drag or open track, daily driver, weekend warrior). Is emmissions a concern? Power level wanting? If you are wanting 400 rwhp, then just heads & cam won't get you there, need more cubic inches = stroker or power adder.
Again, depends on the motor, how much you want to spend on your motor. Nitrous in the power adder classes is sucking hind tit for want of a better expression.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cobrapace94
If it were me, I would get AFR heads. They are the popular choice & make the most power. MM&FF did a head comparison and the AFR came out on top every time in each of their catigories. AFR has different heads for different applications.
This is true. However, it's based on a 302 block base, not stroked. Houstonperformance.com (Steve Dryers boys) came out on the top end of the porting/cam job in the latest stats for a 281 4V motor, Steve is a good guy based on my dealings, so I'm sure this is on the mone, He''s straight up. I would have to lean towards these being actual street headwork stats...STREET. A good actual no shite porting and cans should run an honest 5k.

Go figure, a 281 4 valve for real performance should run more, although that was the quoted price. Of course, that is relative to what your engine flows, top to bottom. Oh wait. You may spray it, after all, it IS a totally forged lower end from the factory. Houstonperformance.com flows the heads for you...make SURE you DETAIL what you plan to do with this combo in emailing trans, as well as differential setup. I feel quite sure they can flow heads without nitrous that can trash your IRS/6speed setup.

Jimmie
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Old 12-30-2004, 11:09 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cobrapace94
The 1st thing you need to figure out is what you want out of the car & what the intended purpose of the car would be, racing (drag or open track, daily driver, weekend warrior). Is emmissions a concern? Power level wanting? If you are wanting 400 rwhp, then just heads & cam won't get you there, need more cubic inches = stroker or power adder.
If it were me, I would get AFR heads. They are the popular choice & make the most power. MM&FF did a head comparison and the AFR came out on top every time in each of their catigories. AFR has different heads for different applications. The 165's are good street heads. The 185's are geared more toward a larger motor or stroker motor or one with power adder, NOS or boost of some kind. Then they have the 205's, pretty much a race head. It will depend on what you want the car to do, track car, daily driver or weekend car. This also holds true for the cam. The 94\95's seem to have issues with cams, not idleing right, surging. To get the most power a custom cam is the best route to go. Have heard good things about the Crane 2031, which was made for the Cobras 1.7 rocker arms. Our cars like a lot of lobe seperation to idle correctly, which the 2031 has. Might want to consider porting the stock Cobra intake or getting a afermarket one also while it is apart.
AFR heads are a little more money than the other head, Trick flow, Edelbrock, Holley, but they do make the most power. AFR heads run around $1300, where as you can get Trick flow heads for around $1000, Edlebrock are a little more around $1100. Cams usually run around $200 or more for custom cam. Intake is around $500. Not sure on cost of install, I'd guess on the high side of around 750 to 1000. Might even need a dyno tune also.
so for a good street strip head, you would go with the AFR 165's instead of the 185's? Not really wanting to notch my pistons for the 185's but not sure the 165's will make as much power as needed. What is the power difference between the165's and the 185's. Will a blower hurt the 165's? Wanting atleast 400rwhp
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2.2 Kenne Bell Blowzilla/ Flowzilla Supercharger (12# Boost), AFR 165 Aluminum Heads 61cc, TMoss Port Matched Cobra Lower, Trickflow 1.7 Roller Rockers, Crane 2031 Camshaft, 3/8" Intake Spacer, 60# Injectors, Accufab 75mm Throttle Body w/ Blank Spacer, DynoJet Wideband Commander, MSD Pro Billet Distributor, MSD Blaster Coil, SCT Big Mouth Meter BAF 2400, JLT Custom Cold Air intake, Deleted EGR/ Smog, Mac Chrome Radiator Pipes, Mac Ceramic Coated Shorty Headers, Mac O/R H-Pipe, Flowmaster Cat-Back, Pro 5.0 Shifter, Ford Racing 3:73 Gears, H&R Sport Springs, Chrome Cobra R Wheels
Pro Dyno Tuned to 498 RWHP 497 RWTQ
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Old 12-31-2004, 01:04 AM   #13
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You are correct in that the 185's will require piston notching. The 165's are a good head & will make good power, not as much as the 185 after the SC. MM&FF did a head comparison test & the AFRs usually came out on top. I'll have to look it up & post the top 4 (they did the comparison using different engines for different class heads, matching the componants, Don't want to put a race head on a stock engine or a stock heads on a 408 race motor). Don't rule out the Edelbrock heads either, they have some good points, heli coild threads for one.
With the heads, a 2031 cam & a supercharger, you 400 hp should be easly obtainable.
Shoot, I installed a Powerdyne BD11A (basicly the smallest SC for Mustangs) supercharger on my bolt on 94 Cobra & got 345 rwhp. So if you get a larger supercharger, Vortec, Procharger or larger Powerdyne with more boost, add that to heads, cam, you will get the 400 rwhp with a good tune.
With all the additions a main girdle would be a good addition. If you plan on racing, the T5 might be a weak link along with the stock clutch. The stock axles could also give problems if high RPM launches with sticky tires. Traction will be a issue, so sticky tires will be required.
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Old 01-01-2005, 12:33 AM   #14
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Will the stock cobra 1.7 roller rockers be alright to use on the afr heads? They only have 38k miles on them.
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2.2 Kenne Bell Blowzilla/ Flowzilla Supercharger (12# Boost), AFR 165 Aluminum Heads 61cc, TMoss Port Matched Cobra Lower, Trickflow 1.7 Roller Rockers, Crane 2031 Camshaft, 3/8" Intake Spacer, 60# Injectors, Accufab 75mm Throttle Body w/ Blank Spacer, DynoJet Wideband Commander, MSD Pro Billet Distributor, MSD Blaster Coil, SCT Big Mouth Meter BAF 2400, JLT Custom Cold Air intake, Deleted EGR/ Smog, Mac Chrome Radiator Pipes, Mac Ceramic Coated Shorty Headers, Mac O/R H-Pipe, Flowmaster Cat-Back, Pro 5.0 Shifter, Ford Racing 3:73 Gears, H&R Sport Springs, Chrome Cobra R Wheels
Pro Dyno Tuned to 498 RWHP 497 RWTQ
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