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Old 10-29-2004, 09:18 PM   #1
Abneriel
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Cleaning the IMRCs

...figured I should probably get off my butt and clean them since I'm sure it wouldn't hurt...

How hard is the task? I've replaced the front calipers/rotors, changed oil , installed electronics (ie speedcal, stereo), etc...how much harder is tackling the IMRCs? Are there any diagrams or instructions on how to get to and clean them? Will I need to buy any new gaskets or anything?

If there aren't any diagrams...would anyone mind posting directions? Any pictures would help...

Thanks
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Old 10-30-2004, 03:26 AM   #2
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You are in luck my friend. The South Central Region of SCMC has a Tech write-up on cleaning the IMRC's

here you go..

http://www.svtmustangcobraclub.com/m...C_Cleaning.pdf
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Old 10-30-2004, 10:31 PM   #3
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thanks!!! should make it much easier...
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Old 10-31-2004, 11:25 PM   #4
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How often should you do this?
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Old 11-01-2004, 03:19 PM   #5
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To Clean Or Not-to-clean Your Imrc!

Quote:
Originally Posted by overkill91
How often should you do this?
I just did mine at 43k miles, and would recommend that you NOT DO THEM as some kind of routine maintenance thing, but only when you know they are not working properly, or have ceased to function. It took me about 6 man-hours. Except for assistance to lift the lower intake back into place during re-assembly (the tricky part of the job with wires and fuel rails grabbing at the intake as it was set back inplace), I did the teardown, cleaning, and reinstall myself.
Mine had ceased to function as evidenced by the loss of the kick in the butt under 6 psi of boost.
Prior to a visual inspection I had reached down to the levers at the back of each IMRC with a hooked piece of coathanger wire and was able to manually operate the linkage without difficulty. So I was prepared to have to do an IMRC module replacement.
Sure enough, after tearing the intake manifold off I really didn't have any substantial buildup of carbon and varnish as some have shown in various articles. This kind of substantiated my earlier ability to move the linkage manually.
With no apparent method to test the original module I simply opted to but in a new one and have it over with. With a friend in the local Ford dealer's parts department I got away with the required parts: (2) O-rings for the coolant tube, and the module, for around $100. It took (7) cans of carb cleaner,a couple of rolls of paper towels, and countless latex gloves (that carb cleaner will ruin your skin!). All of the gaskets are reusable.
The articles I read and used as reference during the cleaning process were detailed enough to have a successful cleanup effort. You might wish to research bolt torque values and sequences so that you don't overdue torques during re-assembly. They are low values, in the range of 70 to 180 IN-LBS! An IN-LBS torque wrench was really handy.
Upon initial startup the engine was really sloppy. It didn't want to idle until it reached normal operating temperature. I just kept it going with my foot until it smoothed out - maybe 10 minutes. That was an anxious time!
Performance since is right back to its old head-snapping, tire-blistering self.
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Old 11-03-2004, 09:10 PM   #6
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I wish i could compare mine to something but i just bought it with 50k on the od. I guess ill look harder for the kick at 3k but cant say that there is any night and day difference at that rpm.
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Old 11-04-2004, 08:16 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by overkill91
I wish i could compare mine to something but i just bought it with 50k on the od. I guess ill look harder for the kick at 3k but cant say that there is any night and day difference at that rpm.
Before you do anything, check fuse #10 to make sure it is okay.

Then do a physical and visual check. Between the back of the engine and the cowl you will see (2) flexible cables looping up from the IMRC control module and then down to the IMRC levers. While leaning over the right fender, grab the right cable and rev the engine up over 4K RPM. You should feel the cable sheath stiffen as the cable within pulls the IMRC lever to the open position. Then get your face down in there where he cable extends down to the right IMRC lever. It is just barely visible. Then rev the engine up several times over 4K RPM. You should be able to see the lever move. If it don't move, it's stuck or the control module is shot.

After replacing my control module I first thought things still weren't working. First, I was so used to hearing a 'click' when they opened, and that 'click' isn't present with the new module. After examining the old module I concluded that no 'click' is correct. The sound was made by the motor within the module slamming into its mounting brackets. Apparently it was a bit loose due to deterioration of the rubber holddowns. As for the kick, I didn't notice initially probably because the PCM had to come back from having the battery disconnected, and I wasn't really able to move out (get into the boost) going around the block in my neighborhood. Subsequent adventures have proved its working well!
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Old 11-12-2004, 12:32 PM   #8
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Thanks for the good info. Ill take a look at everything this weekend.
The one thing i have noticed is that there is a dead spot at 3250 or so especially when the car is cold. If you are holding part throttle and allow the engine to rev past this mark there is a dead spot in the power.
Also, at WOT it seems like the power is inconsistant. I can really feel a drop in power around 5k or so for some reason (mainly in second gear). My check engine light is also on so im going to get the codes today and see what happens...
BTW, sorry to but in with my problems on this post.
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Old 11-15-2004, 07:58 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by overkill91
Thanks for the good info. Ill take a look at everything this weekend.
The one thing i have noticed is that there is a dead spot at 3250 or so especially when the car is cold. If you are holding part throttle and allow the engine to rev past this mark there is a dead spot in the power.
Also, at WOT it seems like the power is inconsistant. I can really feel a drop in power around 5k or so for some reason (mainly in second gear). My check engine light is also on so im going to get the codes today and see what happens...
BTW, sorry to but in with my problems on this post.
I have the same 'dead spot' when the engine is cold too. I just isn't ready for the second intake to come on line. I don't know how the Vortech is programmed, but I imagine it's set to come on line around t 3250 RPM too so that all works together efficiently. BUT AFTER THE 'DEAD SPOT' LOOK OUT!
If you have a CE light the engine is not going to run right. It's like in a 'limp home mode'. All performance is forgotten. It figures you aren't supposed to be at 5K RPM when something isn't right, so it holds back. Get back with the DTC numbers and/or what the diagnostician said about the CE light.
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Old 11-15-2004, 08:22 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SNAKEYE
If you have a CE light the engine is not going to run right. It's like in a 'limp home mode'. All performance is forgotten. It figures you aren't supposed to be at 5K RPM when something isn't right, so it holds back. Get back with the DTC numbers and/or what the diagnostician said about the CE light.
It depends on what has triggered the CE light. About 80% of the things that turn the CE light on do NOT affect performance. The light being on is absolutely no indication of loss performance. You need to have the codes checked to see what triggered the light. Your engine will run 100% power with the CE light on unless it's one of the few events that actually puts you in "limp" mode. The CE light does not mean you are in "limp" mode.
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Old 11-15-2004, 11:58 AM   #11
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It was a 02 sensor code. I think it was like bank 1 sensor 2. Ill have to look when i get home. I did call a few places though and they said it was a rear sensor.

Im going to try and make it to a auto store to remove the code and see what happenes. I currently have a different set of MIL Eliminators on the car.
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Old 11-15-2004, 12:49 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by overkill91
It was a 02 sensor code. I think it was like bank 1 sensor 2. Ill have to look when i get home. I did call a few places though and they said it was a rear sensor.

Im going to try and make it to a auto store to remove the code and see what happenes. I currently have a different set of MIL Eliminators on the car.
So, 'tcrews', is an O2 sensor in the 20-percentile bracket of things that will effect performance?

Exactly what code(s) (by the numbers) did you come up with 'overkill91'?

With 50K miles on the odometer one might expect O2 sensors to start having problems. I don't know what Ford expects to get out of them longevity-wise, but I had a '90 Chevy 4-banger that got just over 60K, a '98 VW that went 65K, and a '95 Chrysler 3.0L V6 still going at 85k. With the Vortech, SNAKEYE's tailpipes are heavily coated with carbon, but no complaints from the O2 sensors (knock on wood!) or the emmisions tester.
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Old 11-15-2004, 01:36 PM   #13
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I will post in the code later but i think it was like ph0136? Its written on a piece of paper at home.

So its not abnormal for the IMRC's to freeze at ~3K? Mine still do it a little even when its warm. Much worse when cold though.
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Old 11-15-2004, 08:32 PM   #14
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Ok, here is the code.

P0136 O2 sensor circut malfunction
Bank 1 sensor 2

Any thoughts?
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Old 11-15-2004, 09:25 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by overkill91
I will post in the code later but i think it was like ph0136? Its written on a piece of paper at home.

So its not abnormal for the IMRC's to freeze at ~3K? Mine still do it a little even when its warm. Much worse when cold though.
I wouldn't call it "freeze"! The engine and controls just aren't ready for the sudden drop in vacuum that occurs with the sudden opening of the IMRC plates. They literally 'snap' open instananeously. A cold engine stumbles a bit. The message here might be to not go there (3250 RPM) until the temperature has reached normal. The recovery can be a kick!
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